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Pulling Timing Cover: How difficult to do in truck?

GM Guy

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
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Location
NW Kansas and SC Idaho
Hey all,

I need to pull the oil fill tube and rock it back and forth to see how much slop the chain has to be sure I want to dive in anyhow, but I wanted to ask you folks:

1) How hard is it to pull the front cover while the engine is still in the truck? (radiator is coming out anyhow)

2) How difficult is it to get the front cover to seal back up? Do I use a gasket, or just "The right stuff" black, or a gasket lightly dressed with "the right stuff"?

I am pondering going all in and putting Leroy's timing gear set in the new 95, and wanted to ask around and see how difficult this will be.

Also, how long of process will it be for a first timer? I will be doing it outside on a cement pad unless I can affordably rent some shop space from the neighbor, and don't want to leave it open too long. (we have a 40x60 shop, dont ask about the lack of extra space... :)

Any input appreciated, thanks!
 
It's doable, esp. with the rad out. I haven't done it but having recently rebuilding my engine I don't see any issues.

I used Red silicon form a gasket to seal it.
 
NVW said:
It's doable, esp. with the rad out. I haven't done it but having recently rebuilding my engine I don't see any issues.

I used Red silicon form a gasket to seal it.
Click to expand...

I did it with the Radiator in place. It's not that hard. Probably half to 3/4 day of work. If you're going to do it and do not have the HO water pump with Dmax fan, then now is the time to do that.
 
Big T said:
I did it with the Radiator in place. It's not that hard. Probably half to 3/4 day of work. If you're going to do it and do not have the HO water pump with Dmax fan, then now is the time to do that.
Click to expand...

I tired it that way and gave up because I have little or no movement in my lower back rods/screws etc holding me together anyway I removed the radiator to finish it.
 
I've done it a couple times, with the radiator in. Just remove the core support and shroud for easier access. 1/2 day if you have all the stuff laid out and ready (tools, parts etc.).
 
I did it with radiator in. Radiator out and core support gone would make it a lot better.

My hired hand had trouble sealing the water pump but he's not the cleanest worker. I did it in 2 days on my 93 while going to college. It wasnt terrible and it bone dry. I used right stuff.
 
Plan a full day for your first time to be safe. Just the right stuff, No gaskets. Be careful to not fill in the diagonal drain channels on the sides. But consider a front main seal while your there. Score the timing indicator to go in same place if you have/ use one. And TDC it.

I always do an oil change when pulling that mess apart. Contamination is too easy there.

Are you pulling the radiator to clean the stack while your there? If so, ok. Otherwise leave it there.

If your going to do gear drive set or timing chain, now is the time to do it.
 
So how hard do the actual gears install? Do I need to track down some sort of installer?

Also, what are the reasons to not use a gasket? Is it just trickier to get the gasket correct?
 
Gaskets can slip or tear. The right stuff just goes on like caulking a window. Much faster, cheaper and more reliable.

I've done gear drive in other engines, not 6.5 that I can remember. Maybe 1? Gears are easier IMO. No special tools. You can put on 1 crank gear, then set idlers on, then slip on cam gear. No holding 2 gears while holding tension on chain, while aligning. Then again, maybe I'm a freak, and just used to old big diesels that all used gear drive.
 
I wouldn't bother. The chain is going to stretch back out in under 30K miles. While you have the water pump off you should replace it. Getting the water pump off is 90% of the job as it has a bolt or stud in the fing way on every single thing bolted to the front of the engine. Yes, the PS bracket needs to come off - YUCK! The other 10% is getting the HB off.

Rent the space to get out of the wind and any bad weather. "affordably rent" is not relevant when the wind and wind chill picks up and you realize you didn't absolutely have to do the work in the open.
 
Ya know, I can't remember. I just remember all the instructions warning against it. Maybe just moisture trap causing rust? Now I want to look it up, just can't for a bit.
 
A light tap with a wedge between crank and crank sprocket should have it off quick.
Timing gear might need a light tap to seat it on the crank.
 
Will L. said:
Gaskets can slip or tear. The right stuff just goes on like caulking a window. Much faster, cheaper and more reliable.
Click to expand...
Will, do you use the gasket between pump and backing plate? I ask because I did one today without the gasket and the impeller is rubbing the plate.
 
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