• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

PowerMaster Starter Install with Block Carnage

I will have to keep searching for one of those. though I know that little ear bracket is not present on mine. Shouldn't be that hard to make something for that.

I have to ask, what caused the crack in the starter bracket mount? that looks bad.
 
Here’s my second attempt. I loosened up all the bolts on the starter and the bracket, I was able to minutely pivot the starter. While I was pushing on the starter so the gear went away from the flex plate I tightened up the starter bolts, then tightened the bracket up

 
Seems like that tiny bit of movement did the trick. Thank you @ak diesel driver for suggesting it.

after watching the video myself, something I noticed is my trans cooler lines swaying back in fourth after cranking and shutting off. they are attached to the clamp bracket up on the front side of the pan and secure on the trans. not sure why it looks to be swinging in the video.

They are not that far from the pos post on the starter which worries me. I just got the starter wrap in the mail and that will wrap the starter, but it's not meant as an insulator for battery connections. I need to find a rubber boot to cover that post.
 
Well I suppose this is just about job complete and shes back on the road again!!

I need to order that shield off ebay yet, but I went to wrap the starter with the heat wrap blanket I ordered. got it all looped over the top side of the starter. as I came to where the battery cable was connected, it sparked against the wrap!!! LOL the outside is some type of foil cover with fiberglass inside. I had to come up with an insulator and quick. ended up sacrificing the boot that goes on the alternator wire and used it on the starter wire. add an assortment or cable rubber boots to the list of things needed. lol

Got her down off the stands and gave her another turn of the key. she spun off like a top and fired up quick. a day and night difference from the old starter :)
 
Wow thats odd. I posted the above comment right after AK dd posted, but it didn’t accept it until today.

That movement in the starter with the bolts loose- technically shouldn’t exist. The factory bolts are supposed to keep that shifting to a bare minimum. I wonder if thats the difference of the arp bolts? But for your situation it helped (unless it caused it) either way, glad it worked out.

If it allows the starter to get out of position, some machined studs is what I would strongly consider next. The tc/ flexplate shield has to be off but that’s no biggie.
 
Actually (and I know I shouldn't have) but I ended up reusing my GM bolts since 1. I didn't want to mess up the ARP ones by adding more threads to one of them, and 2. I checked and double checked to make sure they weren't bent in any way. both of the GM bolts are also stamped 9.8 grade so I guess that is an equivalent to a grade 8 bolt in SAE standards.

I checked both the ARP and the GM bolts for clearance on the holes in the starter housing. both seem like a machine fit with barely any movement.

I decided at the last minute to save and use the ARP bolts on the 6.2, also discovered that the ARP bolts are slightly longer as I guess why they include those small spacers with them.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Actually (and I know I shouldn't have) but I ended up reusing my GM bolts since 1. I didn't want to mess up the ARP ones by adding more threads to one of them, and 2. I checked and double checked to make sure they weren't bent in any way. both of the GM bolts are also stamped 9.8 grade so I guess that is an equivalent to a grade 8 bolt in SAE standards.

I checked both the ARP and the GM bolts for clearance on the holes in the starter housing. both seem like a machine fit with barely any movement.

I decided at the last minute to save and use the ARP bolts on the 6.2, also discovered that the ARP bolts are slightly longer as I guess why they include those small spacers with them.
Click to expand...
Can't you use a washer instead of cutting more threads?

It seems to me there used to be a part number for a washer
 
jrsavoie said:
Can't you use a washer instead of cutting more threads?

It seems to me there used to be a part number for a washer
Click to expand...
No, he is cutting more threads to run the bolt deeper into the block.

This is part of why I was saying make a couple custom studs. He could un threads as deep as wanted, have the shank fit exactly the same diameter the whole way down, and studs dont put as much stress on the hole as bolts do. That why studs are a better idea for main caps- less strain to hopefully prevent web cracking issues there.
You just have to adjust the torque lower. Using stud & nut means same clamping force (holding power) at a much lower setting on the torque wrench. And all the force in the threaded hole is now linear and no rotational force is used. Also once you test fit the starter once- you could jb weld the studs in place if you think that would help hold it all together even.

Out buddy in Tx here is bit twice by GM cracks - starter ear here and the 6.2 main web cracks. Thanks penny pincher @ GM.
 
I was thinking, you know what the kicker would be here... if when the day comes that I pull this 6.5 out ether from the starter mount finally self destructing or the blow by gets so bad I begin to have a side hustle of fogging for mosquitoes, that when I drop the pan, none of the main webs would be cracked!!! That I think would be the real kick in the kaboose for me.
 
It happens, but not usually. Cracked starter mount is a negligent owner/mechanic, period.

Main webs crack from normal wear of balancer. Non cracked webs is a low mileage engine or an attentive owner that knew to change the balancer every 100,000 miles or so. That type of owner (or the mechanic they use) will not start the truck without the starter brace.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top