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Powermaster starter and alternators

A bit more on the powermaster. First, call their tech support and talk to them before buying anything. They are great customer service and would rather you talk with them to get what is best for your application, they have multiple alternators at different charge rates. 2 identical year rigs 1 with everything stock vs 1 with tons of lights, stereo, winch, etc. he said should choose different alternators to give much better battery and alternator life. They can custom build for also for any application. :)
Iirc they have 5 finishes plain aluminum, chrome, satin, black, and something else.

Remember how everyone of their starters goes on a dyno and comes with its own spec sheet? Same deal with the alternator.

I talked to him about the warranty being 1 year on an expensive part. He put it this way: 2-3 year warranty on a p.o.s. Is there because it needs it. Quality starters and alternators last many years. If one of theirs dies early it is usually in a month becuase something went wrong. If you have one die a short life, call them and go over the situation, they live off their reputation and to call them with any issues so they can earn lifetime business- as he put it.

They also have a rebuild program where you send them your worn out powermaster starter or alternator, and they do new bearings, brushes, clean up or replace rotor, etc. and it is of course far less than a new one. I told him my story about breaking mine when I took my Hummer over a ledge and it balanced on a huge piece of rebar someone drove in the ground as a winch anchor and broke the starter housing. He said- "Oh that sucks, send it it and we'll put it back together and let you know the price, otherwise we'll cut you a really good deal on a new one". Damn, wish I hadn't thrown it away...Wish I called them before buying instead of just buying one - I would have known.

Here is my thing on powermaster. Everybody talks about being sick and tired of low quality parts. They sell quality, but expensive parts. Either buy 2 lifetime Oriellys junk and keep a spare in the truck with a belt so when it locks up on a trip you aren't stranded. Or buy quality.
I support the buy made in the USA. These are made here.

I get no kick back or discount from them for spreading the word, it's just after spinning wrenches since the early 80's as a teenager up through wrenching some of the biggest pickup fleets in this part of the country, I am disgusted with crap parts. I have a very tight budget- my hummer has needed a paintjob for 4 years, and rattle cans are in it's future most likely, and it is painful to admit it. But the intelligent investment in quality parts is better than lifetime warranty junk that downs a rig when it is needed and has potential to damage other parts, like alt bearing seizing snapping belt and taking out wiring, or starters taking out flywheels. I even seen one stick on and spin up with the engine only to grenade into the oil pan while we were trying to rip off the cable. Thankfully got the engine off, because it jammed parts into the crank and rods. Actually has to replace a rod that was damaged from the impact along with a tire from shrapnel. Cheap is not always cheap.
 
Agreed! I have been told at one of the chain retailers their lifetime units only get new parts in them if they are bad on the bench. And I believe it, they have lost money on the lifetime units they have sold me because I think my trucks should last my lifetime! lol But looking back it would have saved a lot of time and trouble to have paid for A true quality unit. The 93 that broke the crank ate about 5 starters and at least that many alternators during the 10+ years I had it.
 
I posted 6 years ago my handheld optical tach measurements that the Powermaster cranks a cold 6.2 as fast as the factory starter does hot. It does so with the same or less power draw. (CCA) I think its due to the permanent magnet motor design where power isn't needed for field coils. (I forget what's in their motors.)

Cold engine 120 RPM factory starter. (Steady state RPM 5 rotations or more.)
Cold 180 RPM Powermaster. (180 was the final steady number. 130 was the lowest reading I could get during the first 2 rotations.)

Hot engine 180 RPM factory.
Powermaster hot: Untested as of this post date.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/the-powermaster-9052-starter-for-6-2-and-6-5.26396/
 
On the hummer site i talk about the powermasters over there, and several have switched. Of course every person that has is in love and amazed.
Many that haven't heard one in person just can't believe because "if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is". Understand the factory huge hummer starter is direct drive and water proof. So $900 new is not an unusual price. Here we all think the powermaster is crazy expensive. They think its so cheap that there is no way its better.
I'll take a reman AC Delco over the huge prestolite any day. If I didn't work on pickups, i guess i wouldnt know better either. The AC Delco is good, but Powermaster? pfft- no friggin contest.
 
Here is calculator for determining the RPM of the alternator based on engine RPM, I found a rebuilder that has new alternators for the Duramax that has a substantial higher output at idle than stock, somewhere around 100+ amps at idle, it come with a spec. sheet to boot.

http://www.accutach.com/Pages/BlowerRPMCalculator.aspx

With the additional overhead output at idle my injector balance do not bounce around like they used to and that's where I wanted the higher output, at idle. Have to watch some these companies as they are using an underdrive (smaller) pulleys to raise the idle output.

I also increased the size and added an additional charging wire and ground cables..........
 
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Old and new charging wire....
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Spec. sheet, that's alternator RPM not engine RPM so you have to use the calculator I posted earlier. So at alternator RPM of 2000 my engine idle is set at 810 I have right at 100 amp. idle
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Two ways to change amperage at a given crank rpm I know of.
1. Pulley size.
2. Winding count in stator/ rotor with more magnetic power.

Pulley size is easy to get the idea, spin the alt faster and get more juice.

Stator/rotor winding count is how you can have 2 or 3 different options from the factory on the same size alternator body. More windings and a stronger magnetic field produces more energy.

Notice the old 70's style 250 amp units were huge and the 40 amp ones were small? Needed more space for more windings and bigger magnets. Sometimes the wite used for the windings has to be larger wire, so that also increases the size.

The use of more wire drives up cost of materials and labor. Larger magnets are of course more pricey, and get into any of the "rare earth" magnets that will really ramp the cost.

As for powermaster, Idk what magnets they use, he told me, but he was feeding me so much info I just filed it as "better magnet" in my head.

I did start to bring up pulley size and he cut me off saying "dont do that on your engine without checking first, I'm pretty sure your tach comes from your alternator on those engines, and that will throw it off." Dude was on point, kinda cool. I told him pickups were and my hummer was an engine sensor. He said "OK, we'll just double check when you order to be safe".


@C20ELEPHANT I beleive ProAmp is a line from a larger producer, but cant remember who, been too many years. Also I see the date stamp on your pic of the tech sheet in 2008. Was that the correct date, and if so (or not) how is the higher output holding out for you? -Baited question, high end alternators usually live amazingly long so hoping to hear yes the date is real and still running strong....
 
@C20ELEPHANT did the new charge wire include a fusible link?

I am getting longer life out of the CS144's vs the CS130. Bearings drying out and connectors to the regulator are what's exchanging them before failure now.
 
Two ways to change amperage at a given crank rpm I know of.
1. Pulley size.
2. Winding count in stator/ rotor with more magnetic power.

Pulley size is easy to get the idea, spin the alt faster and get more juice.

Stator/rotor winding count is how you can have 2 or 3 different options from the factory on the same size alternator body. More windings and a stronger magnetic field produces more energy.

Notice the old 70's style 250 amp units were huge and the 40 amp ones were small? Needed more space for more windings and bigger magnets. Sometimes the wite used for the windings has to be larger wire, so that also increases the size.

The use of more wire drives up cost of materials and labor. Larger magnets are of course more pricey, and get into any of the "rare earth" magnets that will really ramp the cost.

As for powermaster, Idk what magnets they use, he told me, but he was feeding me so much info I just filed it as "better magnet" in my head.

I did start to bring up pulley size and he cut me off saying "dont do that on your engine without checking first, I'm pretty sure your tach comes from your alternator on those engines, and that will throw it off." Dude was on point, kinda cool. I told him pickups were and my hummer was an engine sensor. He said "OK, we'll just double check when you order to be safe".


@C20ELEPHANT I beleive ProAmp is a line from a larger producer, but cant remember who, been too many years. Also I see the date stamp on your pic of the tech sheet in 2008. Was that the correct date, and if so (or not) how is the higher output holding out for you? -Baited question, high end alternators usually live amazingly long so hoping to hear yes the date is real and still running strong....

@C20ELEPHANT did the new charge wire include a fusible link?

I am getting longer life out of the CS144's vs the CS130. Bearings drying out and connectors to the regulator are what's exchanging them before failure now.


Need to change the date stamp on the camera, picture of the new mega fuse bolted to the side of the fuse box. I have an aluminum backing plate behind the fuse mount to be sure it does not crack.. I also added an additional charge wire to the passenger side battery and another fuse.

I had a conversation with one well known company and asked about the pulley the 2006 Duramax had from the factory which is a overrun pulley, he told me I did not need it, end of conversation real quick like with that remark as they add longevity/quiet to the whole serpentine pulley system. I probably do not need it but the company I purchased this alternator from had no problem with installing one for an additional cost.

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Need to change the date stamp on the camera, picture of the new mega fuse bolted to the side of the fuse box. I have an aluminum backing plate behind the fuse mount to be sure it does not crack.. I also added an additional charge wire to the passenger side battery and another fuse.

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That is an absolute work of art!
 
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