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Powermaster starter and alternators

Will L.

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On the hummer forum, (they run 6.5s too) guys are just starting to learn of the magic of powermaster starters. Maybe 4 guys over there with them so far. I mentioned wishing for a group buy you all know I cant leave well enough alone.. so here is what I posted there: hope this info helps. No clue if anyone there or here wants a group buy, but the savings is low and would probably be eaten up in shipping costs.


So I called powermaster motorsports. They are happy to talk to any vendors that would be interested in selling their products.

Their powermaster alternator to replace the cs144 in Hummers puts out 100 amps at idle and 200 amps at peak, minimum. Powermaster number 48203. Their alternators are individually load tested and speced just like the starters that are dynoed and come with their own test sheet. They also do in house refurbishing, so it will be back at original spec when redone to save cash in the future if you want on both.
For any pickup owners the cs130 replacement is powermaster 47861. It does 95 amps at idle and tops out 140 again, minimum spec. they will send out.
He also was knowledgeable about the tachometer being pulled from the alt and said theirs is set up for it, and pulleys are sized accordingly.

Starter Price breaks start at 15 units for regular customers, He said they would do a group buy on starters with best pricing at 50 starters. Around $10 off each level. But we would probably loose out on shipping costs by time its done.

No clue on retailer/vendor costs, But he said most dont have a large stock, (they direct ship I guess). They dont sell individually direct to customer so they can support their retailers properly, but Since we would be like a car club-they would consider it- but i would rather see one of our vendors get set up and pay full price to them, so they can keep in good business, and service us on all sorts of parts. Otherwise, my next starter and alternator will come from summit racing.

I talked to the tech guys that rebuild and do testing, they said the water that gets into a starter isnt what usually does them in, its when the moiture gets trapped inside the starter and cant escape. They teach to drive at least 10-15 minutes after fording for heat to dry out, then before you shut down for the day, stop and start the engine a few times so the starter gets hot on the inside to cook of any remaning water and spin out what it can.
For all the guys doing the mud competitions or just playing in it once in a while he said they tell them just clean off the mud soon as you can to let the moisture get out- again trapped moiture does them in, not mud.

Any questions you all have just call them up, they are helpful with any questions- if he didnt get tired of my long q&a session- that should say something, haha. He also said a big thanks for all buying their products and helping keep made in USA parts strong.
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@Burning oil not like you dont have enough on your plate, but just in case... he said call into the sales department if interested in carrying their line.
 
I would have to see proof of a CS-130 doing 95 amps at idle. Stock units only do 25-40 amps, and as you go up in peak output, idle output tends to go down. I've seen some of the CS-130's put out 135-140 amps, but wouldn't do 25 amps at idle. That's why I always changed out to the larger 144 sized case was for idle output.
 
Yeah, thats what I was wondering. He said that really proudly, and made sure to repeat it as a sales pitch. I asked to clarify (actually about the cs144 replacement) low rom spec and he said something to the effect of, yeah thats where people need the power more often so thats how we designed it. I can see it working that way, it just requires more "holding back" the top output to keep from cooking everything in it's path.

When I owned the truck equipment shop, we had a guy that would add secondary alternators, and would rewind part of it, kinda a custom rebuild really. They would put out 75% of max output at 1,000 rpm for the service trucks we built. There wasnt the nice inverters there are now, and needing serious output power at a high idle was needed. All it would do is generate a lot more heat, so huge heat sinks and fans were added as well. Many of our modded alternators would last over 100,000 miles of use before needing a brush and b aring rebuild. The guy tried a couple times to teach me all his details, but stupid me, put off learning it too late.

Seeing how much their starters kick the heck out of other mfrs, it wouldn't surprise me their alternators can do the same. Starters work way harder.
 
So do Powermaster alternators use PWM like GM or?

I had planned to use the GM gen/alt for tach drive on my Cummins conversion but could not find the proper sized 8 grove pulley so I'm using a very accurate transducer tach sensor attached to an injection hard line.
 
I would have to see proof of a CS-130 doing 95 amps at idle. Stock units only do 25-40 amps, and as you go up in peak output, idle output tends to go down. I've seen some of the CS-130's put out 135-140 amps, but wouldn't do 25 amps at idle. That's why I always changed out to the larger 144 sized case was for idle output.

As @Will L. said "Their alternators are individually load tested and speced just like the starters that are dynoed and come with their own test sheet."

I will confirm the starter units come with their own individual "dyno" results sheet. I imagine the alternators would come with a similar RPM vs. peak output Amps sheet.

I agree a Powermaster CS144 would be a better idea, if they make it, then trying to work the undersized and over the edge of the thermal envelope CS130. From my view: This is justified just from a reliability standpoint alone. Cooler electronics and bearings simply last longer.
 
I can buy PowerMaster as it is, but don't remember my cost off hand. I'll look into it.
Im not interested in all the logistics to sell 50 individual starters in a GB. Id just want to offer my best price and go from there.
 
Yes, powermaster makes a replacement for both alternators. I have the numbers at home and can post them later tonight.

@FellowTraveler - nonpwm? I have ran agm batts on generators, and alternators from the 60's era to modern without problems.
 
I don't recall seeing an alternator that wasn't pwm. Even old school generators had pwm control via the vibrating points. I believe issue comes in with charging agm batteries with battery chargers. Non pwm switching type chargers leak by quite a bit of stray ac current. Lead acid batteries just absorb the ac current whereas agm's won't.
 
I don't recall seeing an alternator that wasn't pwm. Even old school generators had pwm control via the vibrating points. I believe issue comes in with charging agm batteries with battery chargers. Non pwm switching type chargers leak by quite a bit of stray ac current. Lead acid batteries just absorb the ac current whereas agm's won't.
Thanks, I had been wondering about this and now have a better understanding.
 
cs144 = Powermaster 48203 - 200 amp.
cs130 = Powermaster 47861 - 140 amp.
They also have different finishes.
They make versions that put out much higher power than those too.

He recommends calling them to determine what is the best fit for individual's use. Bigger isn't always better.
 
cs144 = Powermaster 48203 - 200 amp.
cs130 = Powermaster 47861 - 140 amp.
They also have different finishes.
They make versions that put out much higher power than those too.

He recommends calling them to determine what is the best fit for individual's use. Bigger isn't always better.
That cs-130 is for the 95 and older. The cs-144 is for the 96+ with a factory cs-144. If you have a cs-130d in a 96+, then the ad-244 makes more sense to go with since it uses the same regulator plugs. The pics I looked up of there cs-130 looks like they're using a hybrid cs-130d rear housing which would explain how they're increasing idle output. The 96+ cs-130D(factory 105 amp unit) put out 60-70 amps compared to the 25-40 of the previous cs-130. It was why GM switched, they needed more power at idle for the vortec pcm than the tbi one needed, so they redesigned the alternator to get the needed idle output.
 
I just asked the guy while he was on the phone seeing about a group deal. I just said it 130&144, he threw those numbers as examples- and said tell everyone to call for their exact unit. They much rather take the call than someone get a wrong application.

I know he said they do different winding count for the output change also, but yeah good catch on the rear unit.

I wonder what kind of 110v ac alternator set up they could do, hmm. Still hoping to do a normal a/c upgrade for my hummer, but if I have to to rv rooftop, that would be nicer than a honda generator.
 
I just asked the guy while he was on the phone seeing about a group deal. I just said it 130&144, he threw those numbers as examples- and said tell everyone to call for their exact unit. They much rather take the call than someone get a wrong application.

I know he said they do different winding count for the output change also, but yeah good catch on the rear unit.

I wonder what kind of 110v ac alternator set up they could do, hmm. Still hoping to do a normal a/c upgrade for my hummer, but if I have to to rv rooftop, that would be nicer than a honda generator.
With new inverter technology, just run an inverter with dual 200 amp cs-144's, and call it a day vs running a seperate ac alternator. Alot of people with boats have gone this route since inverters have gotten affordable, reliable, and efficient.
 
With new inverter technology, just run an inverter with dual 200 amp cs-144's, and call it a day vs running a seperate ac alternator. Alot of people with boats have gone this route since inverters have gotten affordable, reliable, and efficient.
Ok, have to check that out if I go that way.

I can vouch that dual 110 amp alternators and a marine inverter will do the job when there are no other options ;-) Ran a refrigerator to keep food cold and bailed out a buddy who had to suck water out of the basement with that configuration after a tropical storm (formerly hurricane) took out power for a few days. Bonus is if you can find a controller to modulate the RPM based on 12V needs as opposed to just running the motor at a fixed RPM (or rather a fixed throttle position).

By the way, recommend using cables with connectors and not the alligator clip jumper cables when attaching to the inverter (don't ask how I know).
 
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