Power Steering pump?

[JMJNet]

Yes, the only line that you can take out just by taking out the clamp. If you trace it, that line does go to the PS reservoir.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Well, good news.

Truck cold no symptoms. Drove it to empty out and to get clear hose, and heard it making noise turning wheel towards the end.

Maybe fluid is all she needs.

Gonna go flush it out now. BTW, Dealer wanted $130 to flush it for me.

What a deal.

 

[JMJNet]

It is too easy to do yourself, no more than 30 min. I will be doing mine in the next couple of month. Did it in my camry and it helped.

 

[DEERE3594]

$130 to do a flush? Maybe I should open up a dealership...
Let us know how it goes Matt

 

[Matt Bachand]

Super easy once you figure out the plumbing... Have it all set up now, just waiting for the wife to get ready, lol... 1hr 20mins and counting.....

 

[Matt Bachand]

Pix while I wait patiently. I don't want to do it solo... don't want to get it airbound.


Notice around the battery water covers... one of my 5 year old interstates looks in question.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Done.

I'll be sure to update as my condition hopefully improves, and even more sure to update if it worsens

At least I have clean fluid circulating in there, and I am a lot more familiar with the system now.

I flushed through about 3 quarts fluid went from black to light brown. Never got completely clear like the fluid I was pouring in (at least looked clear for the 2 inches i could see as it came out of bottle into funnel)

 

[Matt Bachand]

While I had the vehicle jacked up I checked all ball joints and wheel bearings and steering components.

I've had this truck for 4 years and 35,000 miles. My Ball joints and wheel bearings have always been tight as a rock... Shows good greasing habbits go a long way.

I had to replace pitman arm, P.s. inner/outer tierod (only outer was bad, but did both and new sleeve at same time).

Not too bad considering this poor beast hangs a plow on it that weighs over 1k.

 

[Acesneights1]

I found this site to flush fluid.

Called GM about possible recall that AcessnEights had, but no luck.

The Stealer told me I should try flushing the fluid first, since I'd have to do it again anyhow with a new pump, and all i would be doing is makign sure the rest of lines are clean.

Good idea.

I found this thread. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137081&highlight=power+steering

Is there an easy way to verify which line is the return (low pressure?)

It must be same spot as link, with the rubber hose and a one use clamp on it? I'll take pix in a minute when camera charged.

Once I remove that one use clamp, i just put a regular hose clamp there I assume?

I don't know what years the recall was for but I definitely got mine replaced for free. I didn't even know there was one until I had brought it in there for random stalling problem. They screwed me, I ended up on DP. Learned alot. Fixed with Heath Kit. But hey atleast I got a PS pump right ?

 

[Matt Bachand]

Update.

2 weeks later, and most of the time i hear my power steering noise at startup, and always at red lights and stop signs.... Some mystery noise I heard on highway did go away, hard to explain squishy sound, like thick oil being forced to squirt. That noise would never be long enough of often enough for me to pin-point. Either way that gone.

So I still need to change my power steering pump..... If I buy just the pump itself and re-use my old housing and resevoir, will I need to disturb the lines that go to my power steering unit at all?

 

[Burning oil]

Yep.

Leroy, how you making out on those SS lines?

What am i looking at for cost and how difficult of a job is this?

I kinda like powersteering and power brakes, so I'll probably get right on this now.

I'm sorry I just saw this post. Did you get it figured out yet?

I Do have a hose kit that I'm running on mine. It might cost more than most are willing to pay, but it is a stainless steel braided, teflon lined hose with stainless fittings. Brass fittings will make the cost come down some.
Since the factory hard lines are steel I am confident in using a compression to flare adapter. Basicaly you would cut out the old rubber hose and replace them with the new. You need a tubing cutter and wrenches for this job. I have only been running mine a couple weeks, but have had no issues with it.
It will be $125 w/SS fitting or $100 w/brass fittings
This is for the hoses from the pump to HB and HB to gear only. The others are low pressure. I can supply those hoses, but you can get them local.

I will get some pictures and post them later.

 

[Burning oil]

Some pictures.

 

[ak diesel driver]

While I had the vehicle jacked up I checked all ball joints and wheel bearings and steering components.

I've had this truck for 4 years and 35,000 miles. My Ball joints and wheel bearings have always been tight as a rock... Shows good greasing habbits go a long way.

I had to replace pitman arm, P.s. inner/outer tierod (only outer was bad, but did both and new sleeve at same time).

Not too bad considering this poor beast hangs a plow on it that weighs over 1k.

If your like me I had to relearn how to check ball joints going from solid axle to ifs. You have to support the a-arm and put the vehicle weight on the lower a-arm to get an accurate check of ball joints. I kept thinking mine were tight until I discovered this. Maybe I'm just slow.

 

[Matt Bachand]

If your like me I had to relearn how to check ball joints going from solid axle to ifs. You have to support the a-arm and put the vehicle weight on the lower a-arm to get an accurate check of ball joints. I kept thinking mine were tight until I discovered this. Maybe I'm just slow.

Yep, I jacked it up by the Lower Control arm. Tight as can be. I also take a leverage bar and put that under there. I also try to wiggle by hand, veritcally, then horizontally too.

I overgrease if anything. But still good.



Leroy, not sure what i'm doing with those hoses or not yet, Money isn't the best atm... thus i'm working w/ a noisy power steering pump.. when i have work that is.

Need the warm weather 'boom' (fingers crossed).

Put about 60miles on it today, checked for hand play at pump and was tight. doesn't wine at 1000k + rpm, just at idle speeds. mainly red-lights.

Gonna milk it all I can.

IF i can re-use my lines I will try unless they are absolute crap.

Fall time I have a lot more 'extra cash' that I plan on putting back into the 6.5 economy.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Update.

Work's picking up, and so are the miles again...

On top of my hub issue, starter went. Replaced today, and have new p/s pump in hand and takling that tomorrow.

Once I have the resevoir apart, should I spray that thing clean with carb/cleaner?

 

[Burning oil]

I have not had one of these apart yet, but if you have the res of the pump then it is just an empty tank right? if yes hose it down and dry it out.

My brother is researching a rebuild kit for our pumps. We are going to try one and see how we like it. Should be about $35. for the rebuild kit

 

[Matt Bachand]

While I had the vehicle jacked up I checked all ball joints and wheel bearings and steering components.

I've had this truck for 4 years and 35,000 miles. My Ball joints and wheel bearings have always been tight as a rock... Shows good greasing habbits go a long way.

I had to replace pitman arm, P.s. inner/outer tierod (only outer was bad, but did both and new sleeve at same time).

Not too bad considering this poor beast hangs a plow on it that weighs over 1k.

Funny quote, 1 month later my wheel bearing grenaded on me.

 

[Matt Bachand]

I have not had one of these apart yet, but if you have the res of the pump then it is just an empty tank right? if yes hose it down and dry it out.

My brother is researching a rebuild kit for our pumps. We are going to try one and see how we like it. Should be about $35. for the rebuild kit

P/S Pumps are in that same ballpark price. I've never swapped out the guts before either, so i'm curious. If my Camera didn't get stolen i'd have pix...

 

[Matt Bachand]

My plan is to run the old one as dry as I can into drainpan via clear hose on return nipple. I flushed it a month ago.

Replace the p/s pump.

Re-fill, while going lock to lock and pressing brakes to get that thing moving and outta air.

Sound right?

 

[Matt Bachand]

Update - New pump installed, leak free, super quiet/smooth.

First off, IF YOU HAVE EVO assist, don't even bother trying to re-use the resevoir, just buy a new one w/resevoir.

The way the sensor comes apart at the valve is a super leak hazard, and i'm not sure if its even supposed to be user accessable as the new one comes welded to the cooler line.

I literally took the pump out a total of ------ 5 ------ times in the last 2 dAys. Chasing leaks, screwing around with tthat dAmn EVO sensor, and finally installinga new one with the resevoir complete.

Fortunately I only had to pull the pulley off 2 times.

IT is now leak free and SMOOTH AS SILK, both in the steering and in the brakes. HUGE difference.

I also found out that my brand new NAPA Crank-shaft pulley is JUNK.

when taking off fan, i immediately noticd the screw holes no where near the center, i could MOVE IT WITH MY HANDS!!!!

I saved my old factory one, and put that back on. No more clunk... I also had a bad rattle when belt was loaded on one of my pulleys, and that is now gone too. Not sure if it was the p/s pump or the junk napa CRank pulley,

Either way, she's SUPER quiet at idle again, running great, and brakes and steering are so smooth now.

I hope this thread helps others, because there isn't much information on this subject matter.