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Power Steering pump?

Matt Bachand

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
Messages
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Location
Worcester, MA
I was hearing a struggle noise when turning the wheel come and go very faintly. Today I can now feel it in the brake pedal.

When i'm stopped and press down on brake w/ engine running, I feel it strain on the pedal, and hear it also.

Pretty sure it changes right along with engine speed via powerbraking...

Gotta be the PS pump? Checked fluid, full, black and smells toast.
 
Sure sounds like it.. Mine leaks a quart a week at the booster so I always keep fresh fluid in mine :eek:
 
Yep.

Leroy, how you making out on those SS lines?

What am i looking at for cost and how difficult of a job is this?

I kinda like powersteering and power brakes, so I'll probably get right on this now.
 
Sure sounds like it.. Mine leaks a quart a week at the booster so I always keep fresh fluid in mine
__________________
don't have to worry about rusted out floorboards
 
On a more serious note make sure you flush out the old ps fluid. I used my cordless drill with a cut off allen wrench to spin the pump while having to return line off and into a can.
 
Or you can turn the steering wheel all the way side to side to turn on the ps pump while the engine is running. There is a procedure write up at DP DIY section for Dmax but the setup is the same as 6.5.
 
Nice thing about the drill is you can control it alot easier so you don't pump the resevoir dry between fill ups. Special tools you'll need are a ps pump pulley puller usually the kit will work on most other engine driven accys too.
 
So I should get a new Power steering pump w/resevoir, and a new pulley also?

I'm confused as NAPA's website listed a few options including a pump without the housing.

I should also get a new Power Steering pulley while I'm at it to keep up on PM of all pulleys? (almost all replaced)

I assume there is a bearing in the pulley to wear out, or is that all inside the pump?

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=7&SubCatId=5
 
Just out looking at it.

My biggest unknown atm is the lines that come off the pump housing, they don't look easy to manipulate. They look like that crimped fittings.
 
Matt Bachand said:
So I should get a new Power steering pump w/resevoir, and a new pulley also?

I'm confused as NAPA's website listed a few options including a pump without the housing.

I should also get a new Power Steering pulley while I'm at it to keep up on PM of all pulleys? (almost all replaced)

I assume there is a bearing in the pulley to wear out, or is that all inside the pump?

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=7&SubCatId=5
Click to expand...

The pulley presses onto the pump shaft. The bearing is on the pump shaft, not the pulley. Save some pennies and re-use the old one. You can clean it up and paint it if you like. :smile5: You could re-use your housing if you like, but I don't know about the seal; does it come with a new one? I just buy the pump with housing. ...more money than time lately.

I bought all new lines at Autozone. They don't have one for the gear to cooler (looks like I'd have to replace the whole cooler to do that), so I cut off the crimps and used power steering line and hose clamps (two clamps per end). That's a low-pressure line, so I'm hoping it'll be okay; the crimping process deforms the metal tubing a bit. All the lines unscrew at the gear and booster, except the low pressure one uses clamps. One unscrews at the pump. Get a few cans of brake clean or carb cleaner to clean off the fittings on the gear so you don't get grit in the gear when you unscrew the fittings. I used a cheap crow foot set I bought at Autozone, makes things a whole lot easier. There is a plastic cover that covers the rag joint and clips around the fitting on the gear. Just pry the clip apart a little and slide it up the steering shaft. Don't get oil on your rag joint; it's not good for it. I can't see not changing all the lines while doing the pump. ...unless they aren't leaking. Mine were leaky; I'm changing them while everything is apart as I reinstall the engine. Autozone lists 42" as enough to do the low pressure side, but the gear-to-pump was 37" and the other end was about 30. Measure twice, buy once. My pump was replaced a few years ago, so my low-pressure line on the pump had a hose clamp on it. I use a Dremel to cut off the crimps; if you don't have one, I highly recommend one. Use the reinforced cutoff wheels; the other ones shatter too easy. I think I paid about $75 for the three fitted lines at Autozone (seems like they were lifetime warranty), plus the 6-ish feet of low pressure bulk line (3/8").

I had to remove the whole mounting bracket off the front of the engine to get the pump out from behind it. You have to pull off the pulley in order to remove the bolts that hold the pump to the mounting bracket. Mine also has a bracket on the back that bolts to the block where the battery ground is. Unbolt the AC compressor and set it back off the bracket. You know not to undo its lines, so I won't mention that. There are two bolts and a stud holding the bracket to the front of the engine. One right behind the PS pump, one in the "tubular" portion of the bracket, and one just to the left (maybe a little below?) of that tubular portion (as you face the engine). ...seems like you need a 13mm deep socket for the stud; the other two you use a regular 15mm socket.

I got oil all over the driveway. It's a messy job.

EDIT: I forgot. You have to take off the grill to get at the steering cooler, so you might want to save that part until you install the Lubrication Specialist engine oil cooler (another way fun job). If you don't mess with the PS cooler, you don't need any of the bulk PS hose.
 
Last edited:
Yep, I don't have A/C so thats good.

I'm going to snap a few pictures of it now and I'll post them up. SOmetimes studying things via pictures is better than standing outside looking at the truck.

Big question still remains which pump to get, there are so many options listed, and i want to call one in soon so they can get it asap.
 
Batts dead in camera, charging.

If cutting the lines and double hose-clamping new hose is safe method, that makes the job look that much easier.

Without A/C there, I have plenty of room to work. I don't want to touch anything I don't have to (other lines that aren't leaking). Can't afford to have a one day job turn into multiple day loss.
 
I found this site to flush fluid.

Called GM about possible recall that AcessnEights had, but no luck.

The Stealer told me I should try flushing the fluid first, since I'd have to do it again anyhow with a new pump, and all i would be doing is makign sure the rest of lines are clean.

Good idea.

I found this thread. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137081&highlight=power+steering

Is there an easy way to verify which line is the return (low pressure?)

It must be same spot as link, with the rubber hose and a one use clamp on it? I'll take pix in a minute when camera charged.

Once I remove that one use clamp, i just put a regular hose clamp there I assume?
 
Matt Bachand said:
I found this site to flush fluid.

Called GM about possible recall that AcessnEights had, but no luck.

The Stealer told me I should try flushing the fluid first, since I'd have to do it again anyhow with a new pump, and all i would be doing is makign sure the rest of lines are clean.

Good idea.

I found this thread. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137081&highlight=power+steering

Is there an easy way to verify which line is the return (low pressure?)
Click to expand...

The low pressure line is the line with the hose clamps, not the compression fittings..
 
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