3500GMC
What T F, over
Well 225k is all my PS pump could take. Lost both PS and PB today going down the road. Had to use the reserve PS and PB.. It is a failure where the pump SHAFT broke free internally and started to work it's way out. It had the snake belt 1/4 of the way derailed..
Local parts store had a reman (Cardone) part# 20-860 for 38 bucks.. The catch was, I had to swap the reservoir out. No big deal really.
I snapped a few pics during the process with my Not-so-high-tech cell phone. There is a few key things to take into consideration to end up successful.
First you have to remove the two 'stud-bolts' and Pressure Regulator valve. These three fasteners are the only things that keep the res on the actual pump. There will be a nice ring of rust between the pump and res where the BIG oring is. A little penatrant will ease things.
I chose to leave the inside pump to block bracket in place to help facilitate clamping it in a vice. Using a few layers of rags and a prybar I wedged my way around the res to separate it from the pump. A block of wood and a hammer will help too. Don't beat it up! It will start to move. EVENLY.
Clean the rust ring off, clean out the res, locate your new pump and orings. There will be an assortment of 'square cut' orings. 3 thick and 3 thin ones. Use the ones that are 'flush' with the pump housing. There will be two PR valve orings that are std type. One for the PR (big) and one for your PS high pressure line. (small)
Use some grease for the Big oring (already on pump) that seals the res to the pump. The stud bolts are just long enough to start in. Use these two to evenly draw on the res to the pump. Before touchdown, thread in the PR valve and use it to help draw on the rest of the way. Tighten 'em up tight. Reinstall your pulley and to the truck you go.
Hey what do you know, I have my two luxury options back..
Local parts store had a reman (Cardone) part# 20-860 for 38 bucks.. The catch was, I had to swap the reservoir out. No big deal really.
I snapped a few pics during the process with my Not-so-high-tech cell phone. There is a few key things to take into consideration to end up successful.
First you have to remove the two 'stud-bolts' and Pressure Regulator valve. These three fasteners are the only things that keep the res on the actual pump. There will be a nice ring of rust between the pump and res where the BIG oring is. A little penatrant will ease things.
I chose to leave the inside pump to block bracket in place to help facilitate clamping it in a vice. Using a few layers of rags and a prybar I wedged my way around the res to separate it from the pump. A block of wood and a hammer will help too. Don't beat it up! It will start to move. EVENLY.
Clean the rust ring off, clean out the res, locate your new pump and orings. There will be an assortment of 'square cut' orings. 3 thick and 3 thin ones. Use the ones that are 'flush' with the pump housing. There will be two PR valve orings that are std type. One for the PR (big) and one for your PS high pressure line. (small)
Use some grease for the Big oring (already on pump) that seals the res to the pump. The stud bolts are just long enough to start in. Use these two to evenly draw on the res to the pump. Before touchdown, thread in the PR valve and use it to help draw on the rest of the way. Tighten 'em up tight. Reinstall your pulley and to the truck you go.
Hey what do you know, I have my two luxury options back..