Power brake assist.....

[Will L.]

 

[Nosferatu49534]

Cool video.

 

[FellowTraveler]

The best would be a high pressure hose inline filter as it would filter the p/s fluid before it gets to any component. Secondary would be two (2) inline return filters there are various brands with some having issues clogging so be careful on your selections. Best to Goggle any brand you might want to see if there is any history of clogging etc..
Suggest AMSOIL p/s fluid from vendors herein this site.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Will, nice info, my system uses lots of p/s fluid because I have dual p/s coolers, dual filters and a hydro winch.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

Well I still have to almost stand on the brake pedal to stop. I'm assuming if the new booster was "bad" wouldn't there be a leak of some sort? Also could I possibly need to go through the whole brake system and bleed that as well?

 

[Nosferatu49534]

Or possibly just keep trying to get air out of the p/s system?

 

[FellowTraveler]

Well I still have to almost stand on the brake pedal to stop. I'm assuming if the new booster was "bad" wouldn't there be a leak of some sort? Also could I possibly need to go through the whole brake system and bleed that as well?

No if bad it will not necessarily leak, could be an internal leak or someone forgot a part when assembling it.

You must make sure the master cylinder is the correct one too if not that could be the problem.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

Is there a visual way to check the one that on it for the right info? Looking at parts on napas site doesn't really help much. And orielys where a got the booster doesn't even list a jd7 master cylinder just JB6.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

I hope I'm not asking to many questions either, this is just very frustrating.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Is there a visual way to check the one that on it for the right info? Looking at parts on napas site doesn't really help much. And orielys where a got the booster doesn't even list a jd7 master cylinder just JB6.

Who ever put a low GVWR jd5 hydroboost on that truck reduced the brake capacity below the safe level on that GMT400 and consider they may have also installed the wrong master cylinder and even the wrong proportion valve too make sure they are the correct parts.

Try rock auto parts.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

Okey dokey.

 

[FellowTraveler]

If the brakes worked before your change out then consider the hydroboost is not assisting so it would be hard to stop.

Good p/s pump puts out 1400/1500 psi @ lockup and lower during normal driving a hydroboost would bring that psi up to 1750/1850 psi for power brake assist.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

the new power steering pumps im seeing say they dont come with the electronic parts. I noticed on mine theres a plug on the bottom of it, is this something I would need to remove from mine and put on the new one? would a1 cardone be good or should i go with something different?

 

[FellowTraveler]

the new power steering pumps im seeing say they dont come with the electronic parts. I noticed on mine theres a plug on the bottom of it, is this something I would need to remove from mine and put on the new one? would a1 cardone be good or should i go with something different?

That is the VOV valve for the mall parking feature it must be switched over or eliminated w/GM kit or use older model high pressure p/s steering hose assembly.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

Gotcha.

 

[WarWagon]

IMO You have a bad booster or the wrong booster. Possible the PS pump has failed esp. that goofy electric valve. Brakes on the floor is the steering wheel hard to turn? I would start over and re-check the entire brake system including beading it out and adjusting the rear shoes. The proportioning valve can go bad and you loose rear brakes.

If you have foam in the PS oil tank you don't have all the air out. Wait 30 min for the foam and bubbles to disperse between beading attempts.

Get a NEW virgin PS pump. Keep your old spring from the relief valve in the PS pump as hydroboost systems are different tension. Yes spend the money on NEW!!! Otherwise go to a junkyard and get a good looking used PS pump from a wreck. Trust me you will have better luck. a1 cardone lasts about 30 min before the "broken" junk they "patched" fails and dusted the entire system requiring flushing the PS cooler, line replacement, steering box replacement, hydro booster replacement, and of course another PS pump. The bitch bolt on the middle of the block is matched by the starter rear bracket bolt as the two worst on the truck to mess with.

I have had several bad a1 cardone units out of the box that don't even work. Their filter assembly offered as a upgrade in the PS pump is a fing joke. So New parts don't mean good parts. After going through 5 junk A1 Crapdone units I have a bad hard on for their no-quality reman krap! Get everything working and their fing box blows a seal 6 months later and runs the pump out of oil. 3 pumps later and 1 box it is working again.

I suggest and use these filters on the box return line. Beware of knock offs. Flush the old PS fluid out of the system as it is wearing things out now...

http://magnefinefilters.com/

 

[ak diesel driver]

That's the one I used

 

[TexasLefty]

That was an interesting video.

I know at work we used to rebuild the power heads on a hydroboost system however they were medium duty not light duty. If you put a piece in there backwards the pedal was hard as a rock. Forgive me it's been a few years (can't remember exactly which part) but I bet your booster/power head was rebuilt incorrectly.

 

[FellowTraveler]

IMO You have a bad booster or the wrong booster. Possible the PS pump has failed esp. that goofy electric valve. Brakes on the floor is the steering wheel hard to turn? I would start over and re-check the entire brake system including beading it out and adjusting the rear shoes. The proportioning valve can go bad and you loose rear brakes.

If you have foam in the PS oil tank you don't have all the air out. Wait 30 min for the foam and bubbles to disperse between beading attempts.

Get a NEW virgin PS pump. Keep your old spring from the relief valve in the PS pump as hydroboost systems are different tension. Yes spend the money on NEW!!! Otherwise go to a junkyard and get a good looking used PS pump from a wreck. Trust me you will have better luck. a1 cardone lasts about 30 min before the "broken" junk they "patched" fails and dusted the entire system requiring flushing the PS cooler, line replacement, steering box replacement, hydro booster replacement, and of course another PS pump. The bitch bolt on the middle of the block is matched by the starter rear bracket bolt as the two worst on the truck to mess with.

I have had several bad a1 cardone units out of the box that don't even work. Their filter assembly offered as a upgrade in the PS pump is a fing joke. So New parts don't mean good parts. After going through 5 junk A1 Crapdone units I have a bad hard on for their no-quality reman krap! Get everything working and their fing box blows a seal 6 months later and runs the pump out of oil. 3 pumps later and 1 box it is working again.

I suggest and use these filters on the box return line. Beware of knock offs. Flush the old PS fluid out of the system as it is wearing things out now...

http://magnefinefilters.com/

Will hits the nail squarely on the head and drives it home too. I've seen small important parts installed backwards and even missing on some rebuilt units "this is why I rebuild my own hydroboost units always" took me awhile to get all the GM tools and now in my tool collection.

 

[FellowTraveler]

The most common causes of hydroboost main power piston damage is from a single grain of sand getting into system scuffing the piston which then leaks each time you step on the brake pedal and it moves forward through the seal the grove caused by the sand then allows fluid to escape. Second is wear and tear. Third is sand getting onto what everyone calls the weep hole but actually is a vent to eliminate this issue a filter medium can be placed in or over the vent hole or as the military does install a vent nipple (most common on fording applications) then add hose and filter or differential vent bellows/small balloon that can expand and contract at end hose as you step on off pedal.

Ingress of sand most commonly enters during sand storms, off road excursions and water crossings where the bed of the river, stream, brook etc. is disturbed allowing mud, sand and other debris to enter booster vent each time brake is applied and released.