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Poor running engine

Thats the size Bill sent me and it was to big (K0601000). I ended up using K060994 (99 7/8). Yous may be different, but thats what put the tensioner marks where they should be on my 97.
 
There!!! Like they say, 2 steps forward and 4 steps back. After getting all 3 IP nuts back on (those that have done it know what I mean), I broke off one of the bolts that hold the gear on the front of the IP shaft and the bolt head dropped down somewhere. Now it looks like I need to remove the water pump and related parts, so I can get in there to find the bolt head. I don't want to chance it finding some way to get into the wrong place and cause more damage.

Here I thought I'd have it running today. At least I have all the parts I need on hand.
 
"1993 CBR900RR-old race bike/street bike, needs overhauling."

Old? I have a 1973 CB750 that I used to drag race with, sitting in the shed. It's still all set up, air shifter and all. Just needs new rubber, fresh fuel and oil (I think).
 
3bals said:
"1993 CBR900RR-old race bike/street bike, needs overhauling."

Old? I have a 1973 CB750 that I used to drag race with, sitting in the shed. It's still all set up, air shifter and all. Just needs new rubber, fresh fuel and oil (I think).
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LOL, its old for a sport bike, :skep: :rof:
 
Well, I'm ready to move forward again.

The broken bolt has been retrieved. Remove the water pump and the alt bracket. As I pulled the pump forward, I heard it fall and come to rest on the bottom gear. I had my flexible magnet right there handy and got it before it fell further. The broken part of the bolt was easily removed from the IP, without much trouble or having to take it back out. I got a replacement bolt from my "parts" truck. Now to get it back to where I was yesterday when this happened.

This whole problem started when I thought it would be smart to put all 3 IP gear bolts in before torqueing them. Apparently, I didn't have the first one in far enough because it caught on that little tab on the bottom of the oil fill hole. Which I assume is so the oil fill tube doesn't go in too far and rub on the gear/bolts? Anyhow, as I was turning the engine over to get the next one, I felt some resistance and pull harder. Then, snap and it was all over for a another day.
 
Well, here's an interesting find.

While I was hooking up the wiring harness to the IP, I got to the connection to the PMD and it didn't fit. The connector was different than all the other PMDs and/or extension harnesses that I have. I ended up trimming the sides down on the IP harness plug so it would fit into the extension cable.

Maybe I missed any discussion about this on here, but it's the first time I came across it. Hopefully I did the right thing.
 
turbovanman said:
I used a AC Delco I believe, #6k994 on a 98.
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99.875in

I got this belt and it's too short. With the tensioner all the way, I'd have to pry it on and I think that maybe too snug. Before I mess it up by prying on it, I think I'll go get a longer one. 101in?
 
Well, after trying several belts from 99.875 to 101.125, I found that the 1st one WAS the right one. I must not have had it on one of the pulleys right the 1st time, because every belt I tried that was bigger than that was too big. I went back to the 99.875 belt again and it fit.

I got it together yesterday far enough to turn the key and after a couple cranking sessions, it fired. I quickly shut it down so I can finish buttoning it up this morning and really test it out.
 
I got it all together now and it started fairly easily. It runs good. It had an air bubble in the coolant, but that was an easy fix. Now it's running codes, but I think that will end when I put in Heath's PCM.

I'm still trying to decide if I should wait until I have the timing checked before I switch PCMs or just go for it, as it's running real well now?
 
I would try to get everything correct before putting in the new one. Heath sells god stuff, but any supplier can get bad parts, or make a mistake. If you put in the new one and something is askew, you could be chasing ghosts looking at other things because you make to many changes at one time. Always fix what you know is bad, then move
 
Will L. said:
I would try to get everything correct before putting in the new one. Heath sells god stuff, but any supplier can get bad parts, or make a mistake. If you put in the new one and something is askew, you could be chasing ghosts looking at other things because you make to many changes at one time. Always fix what you know is bad, then move
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I stopped by the local diesel shop and set up an appointment for Fri at 10am to check my timing.

I'm also thinking of putting new tires on and want to a little bigger. I asked them if they had the capability of setting the speedometer to match the tire size. They did not. I thought I recalled seeing somewhere on here about adjusting that. Anyone remember?
 
I just got a call from Oregon Fuel Injection to tell me my core was junk and that it was all corroded inside. Well, so much for my core return of $100 and the $35 it cost to send it back to them. Almost would have been better to buy the new one without a core charge.

When I get more time, I'll post some pix that I took while doing the repair and upgrades. I've been spending time catching up for time lost time while doing the repairs and all my motorhome repower issues.
 
The local diesel shop checked the timing on my newly installed IP. They said it was at 12* positive (I'm assuming advanced).

Good or bad?
 
3bals said:
The local diesel shop checked the timing on my newly installed IP. They said it was at 12* positive (I'm assuming advanced).

Good or bad?
Click to expand...

I would interpret that as retarded as well.

My vote is to get it to OE at -0.75 TDCO (whatever that equates to cam rotation) and let the computer do its job.
 
JayTheCPA said:
I would interpret that as retarded as well.

My vote is to get it to OE at -0.75 TDCO (whatever that equates to cam rotation) and let the computer do its job.
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And, -0.75 = how many degrees from ? Sorry for the ignorance, but these are things I just don't know.

In other words, where do I tell the shop to set it? In degrees positive/negative.
 
3bals said:
. . . . where do I tell the shop to set it? In degrees positive/negative.
Click to expand...

Did a little digging: my vote is to rotate it 2.4mm to the left per this tech article (http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/fyi-tdco-timing-the-ds4-injection-pump.11754/#post-144956) which should get it to -0.75 TDCO and then read the setting with a scanner; also, set the TDCO re-learn. Naturally, will defer to better experts.

Toward deriving how to correct the IP setting, the text I focused on was:
"When installing a replacement DS4**, or resetting timing, start with the Engine Shut Off solenoid in 90* vertical to horizontal plane across valve-covers - this should be within a RCH of +3.5* Base timing"

Interpolation of the tech article is to rotate the IP 2.4mm back to the left to get back to OE position of 6* / -0.75 TDCO.

So, looks like I need to revise the original comment about +12* as retarded. In doing the math (per the tech library article), +12* translates to -2.55 TDCO and possibly setting a P1214 codes for an IP 'out of range'.
 
After driving the truck around for a few days, it ran fine. Then I had the timing checked. The next day, I installed the Heath programed PCM. Now when I drive the truck, it starts better than it ever did, of course it started well after the work I did too, but just seems better. I've been starting it in 5-9 deg F without being plugged in.

I my experience, cold starting is always better while it's plugged in. Sometimes you just can't. You know, while out deer hunting for hours an hours. I haven't found a currant bush to plug into yet. I don't think we have them here in MN.

The truck runs great now and feels more powerful. I can now reach highway speeds by the time I reach the top of the freeway ramp. Couldn't do that before. We'll check the mileage now too. The first tank after replacing the IP, injectors, GPs and doing the FTB mod, I got 11 mpg and half of that time was spent idling to run the winch for loading logs on my trailer.
 
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