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pmd solution

As far as the tron stuff you can handle it, these aren't as sophisticated as one would think just invest a little time you'll git er done, you see what passes for a tech at GM stealerships these days
What if....

Ya know, the mechanical accelerator pedal is basically just a rod with a pivot point in the middle. One end has a pivot point for the pedal itself, the other end has an attachment point for the accelerator cable. Sort of like a vertical see-saw. Why not cut off the upper end of the mechanical pedal assembly just above the pivot point and attach it (braze/MIG/whatever) to our existing APP? The 'puter gets its info as usual for trans control, etc, and the pump gets a mechanical 'tug'. Since all this occurs at the same time, I'm thinking there'd be no noticeable difference. :agreed:

Now, because the IP is disconnected from the system, you'd probably get a SES warning light, but that's easy to deal with. And, there's be no cruise control. But that, too is pretty straightforward - just install an aftermarket off-the-shelf unit. :thumbsup:
 
Kenny. One problem we see and why my brother does not want to get motivated to come up with a guide is, It took both of us months to research (I helped) and development for the conversion to db2 for obdII. It would also take huge amounts of time to do a proper DIY guide. Our biggest problem would be copy right infringment. As soon as we released it everyone would be sending copies of it all around the world. We would have to charge so much for it up front because we know its just a matter of time before we would see it as a DIY sticky here or some other forum.
Don't get me wrong, everything I/we do is not just for the money. I don't want to sound that way, but in this case it is a huge time investment we have. Not to mention the tech support required for electrical dummies like me that would be calling with questions.......
Maybe you guys know a way we could protect our/your/a product from pirating?

Leroy
 
Kenny. One problem we see and why my brother does not want to get motivated to come up with a guide is, It took both of us months to research (I helped) and development for the conversion to db2 for obdII. It would also take huge amounts of time to do a proper DIY guide.

Leroy
Yeah, I really get the time investment thing. I wrote diesel repair training curriculum for two years. Unbelievable amount of research to be sure everything's right. And then the rewrites. :eek: :mad2: Won't do it again. Your reluctance to take it on shows you have a realistic view of what it'll take to see the project through.

Please pardon my earlier post. I realize it's pretty simplistic. It's a reaction to a frustrating week of chasing electrical gremlins and replacing/repairing ECM systems. When it rains, it pours: first the ECM (internal fuel circuit fault), then the crankshaft sensor (which disintegrated when I tried to remove it - 3 day job) :mad2: :mad2: Now the cam sensor and fish biting. Probably the used IP I installed two years ago. Yeah, I gotta tell ya, manual control is looking mighty good. Even if it's just a string run under the hood and thru the window! :hihi:
 
What if....

Ya know, the mechanical accelerator pedal is basically just a rod with a pivot point in the middle. One end has a pivot point for the pedal itself, the other end has an attachment point for the accelerator cable. Sort of like a vertical see-saw. Why not cut off the upper end of the mechanical pedal assembly just above the pivot point and attach it (braze/MIG/whatever) to our existing APP? The 'puter gets its info as usual for trans control, etc, and the pump gets a mechanical 'tug'. Since all this occurs at the same time, I'm thinking there'd be no noticeable difference. :agreed:

Now, because the IP is disconnected from the system, you'd probably get a SES warning light, but that's easy to deal with. And, there's be no cruise control. But that, too is pretty straightforward - just install an aftermarket off-the-shelf unit. :thumbsup:

We tried going the obvious route first also. but this method did not work. Honestly I can not remember exactly why anymore, but it was most likely drivability issues. We even ran a pulley from the dash structure right above the APP and routed a throttle cable from IP, around the pulley and down to the APP, This did not work either.

Good news though! I just talked to my brother again about this and he said he will get on it some more. Im sure it would be months at the soonest before anything is produced.
 
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