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pmd solution

T

todd

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union center ny
:mad2::redneck::twak::feedback:eek:k i am sick of the pmd plague ! every time the better half gets near the damn burban it either runs out of fuel or the pmd dies or both !!!!! that being said i have a 95 puter 6.5 in the trk and a 94 on the stand in the shop,i am going to switch to a non pmd pump i allready know to run a manual switch for the solenoid any advice to make the tranny shift? i dont give a damn about lights in the dash but i need to make the tranny shift normally and not manualon the tree as it is now basically her ride?
 
Doable but not as easy as it would seem, PM member Bobbie Martin or Ratman both are diehard no PMD/FSD guys, Bobbie used to sell a "how to" CD with information on it. IMO remote mount the FSD out of the engine bay with a NEW not a "tested good" used but good driver and you'll be plenty satisfied.

I run a Heath remote on both mine 6 years troulbe free. as for wife running it out of fuel a Gibbs NCIS bad of head slap if your are brave/bold enough :) or if you problem is more fuel sender related U don't know how much fuel is in tank www.PMDcable.com (Leroy) sells a better than GM replacement sender, he also sells PMD/FSD remote kits.
 
if you opt to go remote mount use the artic silver and add a ground to the heat sink, but don't remove the one on the ip
 
Making the auto trans happy is a fairly big undertaking. Are you VERY electrical savy? If not Compushift and a couple others have controllers.
My brother supplied the brain power but we were able to convert 4 trucks (all 1996 obdII) to DB2 ip's. It is pretty well perfected. We don't even cut any wires, but add a few. If not for my brothers help I would not have been able to pull off the electrical aspect of it and would have just gotten a aftermarket controller. He keeps telling me he's working on a guide/diy manual.
We used TCM's from the 6.5 vans, but have tried the TCM from the 93 trucks also, both seem to work just fine.
 
You can do it with your current PCM, you just have to put the single TPS input into the APP sensor 1 input of the PCM, and keep the other sensors. If interested I may be able to make a custom PROM so you dont get the SES light for the IP DTCs, or the other APP inputs, and all might be well.

Although, it sounds like a lot of hassle when there are reasonably good solutions.

Do you happen to have any battery or alternator issues? Does the other leave the lights on and have to jump the truck? Do you use a jump starter charger that runs off AC voltage?
 
Where is the failed PMD location? still on IP? If so, that is the culprit.

Running out of fuel helps in ruining PMD, too. It runs hot when the fuels are low.
It even runs hot in the bumper.

Wow, 42 gallons?
 
I agree, PMDs suck. I had had failures on my trucks even with remote mount and even Heaths failed on one of them. They drive like shit too compared to a DB2. My buddy just bought a 93 with a facory DB2 and after driving his I want to shitcan every PMD I have. His truck is an electrical nightmare with wires hacked broken grounds everywhere from PO and the truck still runs mint with no issues and has as much power as any of mine with a simple Fuel increase and a TM. It is more cost effective to convert even with a compushift because when you weigh the cost of a DS4 vs a DB2 and then add a Heath or other tunes the Compushift suddleny isn't so expensive anymore. I have a Full tcm setup for a 4l80e but but not sure it's compatible with 96+ 4l80es. The nice thing with a compushift is that it's programmable so you can set it up anyway you want it. The only issue with converting is finding a reasonably priced DB22831-4911. They are scare and there is usually a 3-500$ core charge from most rebuilders. I just got a used good one for my CUCV and am actively looking for 2 more. My Burb and Dually will be converted as soon as the DS4's die. The only bad thing is the cruise will no longer work and I have to look into issues I may run into with getting emmisions because CT will not inspect a truck if the SES light on so that could be an issue. My CUCV does not have an ECM. I don't think they hook to OBD1 trucks but both mine are OBD2. I really hate PMDs and the flight systems ones seem to be even worse than the Standynes.
My .02
 
Kenny with the dark cloud that seems to follow U makes me wonder how you'd fare even with a DB2, you need to have a exorcisim performed maybe :) somebody put too many pins in your voodoo doll.

I personally like the way a DS4 runs and it is superior to DB2 IMO, once properly remoting the driver I have had no fails, I asked Bill why no DB2 on the LSR his quote " if it worked better or delivered more fuel than the DS-4 it would be on it"
 
I actually have had zero PMD failures in the 4 years I have had the truck. I had an IP failure, which may not have been a true failure because I had it changed out before I learned more about the truck. The PMD was on the IP and was not the reason for the no-start, the PO never changed the PMD or IP in the many years they had it, and although I did put a new one on a heatsink, its been on the intake for 3 years and I have probed and prodded it plenty. So, although heat cycling is a normal failure, there must be other failure modes electrically related. I kept the PMD off the IP and it still works.

Since Heath's units seem to last pretty long, occasional failures, the success may not be in the solution or location, but simply the consistency in the installation. When you purchase it how does it come, pre-attached? is thermal pad used, or thermal grease, is there a sealant around the PMD, and does the heatsink mount in a chassis grounded manner?

Are those willing to shell out the money for the Heath unit and warranty more likely to have well maintained vehicles with good charging systems and good batteries and the type that doesnt leave the lights on and kill their batteries?
 
buddy said:
I actually have had zero PMD failures in the 4 years I have had the truck. I had an IP failure, which may not have been a true failure because I had it changed out before I learned more about the truck. The PMD was on the IP and was not the reason for the no-start, the PO never changed the PMD or IP in the many years they had it, and although I did put a new one on a heatsink, its been on the intake for 3 years and I have probed and prodded it plenty. So, although heat cycling is a normal failure, there must be other failure modes electrically related. I kept the PMD off the IP and it still works.

Since Heath's units seem to last pretty long, occasional failures, the success may not be in the solution or location, but simply the consistency in the installation. When you purchase it how does it come, pre-attached? is thermal pad used, or thermal grease, is there a sealant around the PMD, and does the heatsink mount in a chassis grounded manner?

Are those willing to shell out the money for the Heath unit and warranty more likely to have well maintained vehicles with good charging systems and good batteries and the type that doesnt leave the lights on and kill their batteries?
Click to expand...

As I recall in one of our calls, Bill said the drivers get milled for flatness, then a mounted to a aluminum alloy not std aluminum something sourced from the aero industry plate.

The driver is epoxied & screwed to the plate with another aero compound that is capable of xferring heat to it. So part of the extra cost in the price is the fabbing required to mill & mount it.

Heath's failures have been few, of the years I've been on the forums I think I can count 1 hand of guys that have had a Heath unit fail he's using the same driver so the risk of it failing is there so I do carry spare with me just in case, but 6 years is a pretty good run so far.

There are some IP mounted drivers from GM that have yet to fail in 200+K even 300K miles, so they can last under hood as several trucks have demonstrated, but population of those is small, next population of fails is underhood intake mounted, and highest survival thus far has been out of engine bay mounted drivers, supported by survey at old site.

IMO multiple fail modes from bad components, improper assembly, cyclic stress of mechanical joints expanding/contracting when combined with heat are what push the ones that have inherent mfg defects or built at tolerance margins in them over top so they are more prone to fail.

One would have to do a 6 sigma project to try drill down to exact fail mode, but since these have been built over such a long period the data used to draw conclusions on is perishable lot A vs B assemebled at X plant with components from X supplier we may never know full root cause of the why.

Voltage deviations very well could also be a variable in the mix, mine have been subjected to dead batteries and crappy gnds on occasion since remoting and none have left me stranded, I've revived dead ones with a retorque of transistor lock nuts to have them fail later, since they are the base of the transitor could be some voltage discrepancies causing premature death of transistor, the chip burried in center between the transitors may give up ghost as well from voltage spikes.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Kenny with the dark cloud that seems to follow U makes me wonder how you'd fare even with a DB2, you need to have a exorcisim performed maybe :) somebody put too many pins in your voodoo doll.
Click to expand...

Well, there is always that. If they took away my bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all.
 
FWIW - I think Turbine Doc and Buddy bring up some excellent points. Keep the whole system well maintained and be extra carefull/vigilant in how you mount these things up.

Then there is the luck of the draw or that "voodoo" doll status thing.:???:

Mine had the SSD PMD on the intake set up when I bought it in Spokane WA where it seemed to have spent its life up to then. No telling how long it had been on there. I left the PMD there for over a year without issue (North Carolina). Replaced the PMD during a stalling issue that was not PMD related but remoted the assy to the bumper w/o issue for almost 3 years. During that run I've replaced three sets of dead batteries (original pair and tdwo sets Auto Zone notsomuch Gold), bad alternator, batteries drained from cranking up a new IP and rapid charged with 'industrial strength' charger, drained batteries with dome lights (door switch fail) and the underhood reel lamp etc. Plus the tinkering and removing fender wells in the process. Still, no issues or 'Blips' with the SSD that now sits in the truck as a "known good" spare or loaner as needed.
Have a D-Tech on that old heatsink now from when I replaced the IP, and have had one little throttle surge blip that has not repeated itself in 3+ months.
Thinking of getting a larger heatsink and mounting both on it though. I noticed the old one is starting to crack around the bolt holes. Don't want to hear a "clunk, whappity-whap, bang" noise all of a sudden cause I'm dragging the pmd assy. :eek:
Doubt if the cable is warrantied for that.:skep:
 
Turbine Doc said:
I personally like the way a DS4 runs and it is superior to DB2 IMO, once properly remoting the driver I have had no fails, I asked Bill why no DB2 on the LSR his quote " if it worked better or delivered more fuel than the DS-4 it would be on it"
Click to expand...
I agree that the DS4 can deliver more fuel. can't argue with the delivery rates but for the average Daily Driver a DB2 is battle proven. If a my freinds truck had a DS4 with the wiring mess he has it would not be running.
Both my Dually and Burb both have Flight Systems knock offs . One got new from Leroy, the other PO gave me. Both act glitchy in two differnt trucks and both trucks are in good order. You saw for yourself my Dually. That was scary to say the least. That was a flight Systems and the fact that it later tested working is even more scary.
Perhaps someday we can compile data on failures vs climate.
 
Paveltolz said:
During that run I've replaced three sets of dead batteries (original pair and tdwo sets Auto Zone notsomuch Gold), bad alternator, batteries drained from cranking up a new IP and rapid charged with 'industrial strength' charger, drained batteries with dome lights (door switch fail) and the underhood reel lamp etc. Plus the tinkering and removing fender wells in the process.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. When having all the troubles did you charge the batteries each time, or jump the vehicle a few times with the charger or another truck?
 
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