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PMD Question

Its electrical, shit happens, just like some buy a TV and it dies the next day, others they last forever, :eek:

2 of my customers deal with Walt and never had an issue, so I guess its like other vendors, some have issues, some don't, :mad2:

I know we are all told to mount the PMD up front but I have 2 customers that are installed on the intake and one went 7 years without issues, he just sold it and the IP finally packed it in.
 
turbovanman said:
Its electrical, shit happens, just like some buy a TV and it dies the next day, others they last forever, :eek:

2 of my customers deal with Walt and never had an issue, so I guess its like other vendors, some have issues, some don't, :mad2:

I know we are all told to mount the PMD up front but I have 2 customers that are installed on the intake and one went 7 years without issues, he just sold it and the IP finally packed it in.
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I 100% agree with you. Electrical shit does happen and that is probbly what happened. What kind of PMD did they mount up on there trucks. I have had the best luck with DTECH PMDs so far. I only burnt out one because I had it in the cab and my lift pump quit on me.
 
duramaxdude said:
I 100% agree with you. Electrical shit does happen and that is probbly what happened. What kind of PMD did they mount up on there trucks. I have had the best luck with DTECH PMDs so far. I only burnt out one because I had it in the cab and my lift pump quit on me.
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The one truck was an SS diesel PMD and heat sink, the other was a stocker or replaced stocker and I just put the heat sink on, customer was tight for money so we put it there and so far, no issues, been a couple years now-its a dually and tows a camper in the summer up some serious hills.
 
Thats pretty dam good. Some people can mount them on the intake and have no problem while others say it goes bad sooner there. I just find that interesting but my next step will be to try it in the bumper.
 
I have my Stanadyne PMD on a Fleabay heatsink in the bumper snout. I just used a little white Arctic Silver (cuz I have a big tube of it) and screwed it down. I just set it in the bumper behind the license plate. I was going to seal it with RTV, but I've never gotten around to it. ...never got around to bolting it down either.

I've grabbed the thing after an hour at 75-80 mph to see how warm it is, and it's barely even warm to the touch -- the heatsink or the bottom of the FSD. I don't think these transistors produce all that much heat, and the heat damage is from being installed in the engine bay.
 
Does your PMD have a resistor in it? If not that could be a problem.

Walt sells D-techs, has for a couple years. For parts they have good customer service. For advice, I wouldnt listen to Walt.

What kills FSDs is thermocycles, rapid heat changes, low to high, high to low, not just heat, so in the engine bay is worse than anywhere else. A FSD would probably operate continuosly for years at 180F. Mine has been fine on the intake for over a year. I plan to relocate it sometime though.
 
buddy said:
Does your PMD have a resistor in it? If not that could be a problem.

Walt sells D-techs, has for a couple years. For parts they have good customer service. For advice, I wouldnt listen to Walt.

What kills FSDs is thermocycles, rapid heat changes, low to high, high to low, not just heat, so in the engine bay is worse than anywhere else. A FSD would probably operate continuosly for years at 180F. Mine has been fine on the intake for over a year. I plan to relocate it sometime though.
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Ya just never know with electronics. My original FSD on the intake was there for I don't know how long before I bought the truck. It stayed there for almost a year too and was still kicking when I got a new one from Walt last year (not a D-Tech though?) and moved the whole shebang to the bumper. It's still doing its thing too. I went through 3 new VCRs in one weekend many moons ago...you just never know.
 
From what I know the PMD units from Stanadyne and DTech can have issues from the way they are potted. What I mean by that is when the plastic is poored it can leave different size air pockets insid the PMD. Since PMD's heat up very fast if not placed in a cool location on a heat sink the circit board can crack were the air pocket is do to heat flexing. You might have just got a PMD with really bad air pockets and it just got too hot. Large heat sink and a location with good air flow is always your best bet.
 
yeah, it really doesn't matter who makes it. The DTech style have a thicker potting so they claim to have fixed the internal cracking issue. I have been running my Heath unit with a DTech PMD since they first hit the market a few years ago and have never had any issue what so ever.
 
For you folks living in mud/snow country,here is another location for the PMD and heatsink beside the bumper and grill.
Its been in this place for close to a yr now,stays clean and dry and fairly cool.
its normally covered with a piece of styrofoam against engine bay heat rise after shut down
 

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buddy said:
Does your PMD have a resistor in it? If not that could be a problem.

Walt sells D-techs, has for a couple years. For parts they have good customer service. For advice, I wouldnt listen to Walt.

What kills FSDs is thermocycles, rapid heat changes, low to high, high to low, not just heat, so in the engine bay is worse than anywhere else. A FSD would probably operate continuosly for years at 180F. Mine has been fine on the intake for over a year. I plan to relocate it sometime though.
Click to expand...

Ya mine does have a resistor in it
 
bison said:
For you folks living in mud/snow country,here is another location for the PMD and heatsink beside the bumper and grill.
Its been in this place for close to a yr now,stays clean and dry and fairly cool.
its normally covered with a piece of styrofoam against engine bay heat rise after shut down
Click to expand...

Does it get decent air in there. Do you have a heatsink on it
 
I was told many years ago that electronics "usually" fail front end... That is electronics, not hard drives. That's why some electronics manufacturers do a "burn in" to make sure that all works. Powered on for x-amount of time. Instead of failure rate being shaped like a bell curve for expected failure time in so many years... it usually it very high front end, then dropping off...

This doesn't apply to PC CMOS batteries either....
 
knkreb said:
I was told many years ago that electronics "usually" fail front end... That is electronics, not hard drives. That's why some electronics manufacturers do a "burn in" to make sure that all works. Powered on for x-amount of time. Instead of failure rate being shaped like a bell curve for expected failure time in so many years... it usually it very high front end, then dropping off...

This doesn't apply to PC CMOS batteries either....
Click to expand...

Exactly, so when things last more than 3 months, there is more likely it last a longer time. If things last less than 3 months, then, obviously, it is bad. It is valid for most electronics even batteries. I have just changed a battery that last less than 2 months for my friend.
 
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