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Plumbing done, on to the next....
- Thread starter Twisted Steel Performance
- Start date
Big T
Well-Known Member
What are all the wires/cables in the valley for? Temp senders for each cylinder?
DieselAmateur
She ain't revved 'til the rods are thrown...
@Big T those are all coolant return hoses from steam pockets in the heads. A custom Chris mod.
@Twisted Steel Performance remind us of what you're using the 6.2 oil fill tube for? Think you mentioned something about using its plumbing for a provent or ?
@Twisted Steel Performance remind us of what you're using the 6.2 oil fill tube for? Think you mentioned something about using its plumbing for a provent or ?
Yea, no cdr on this one, will use provent 200.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
@Twisted Steel Performance how do the coolant lines work coming from the heads? I see a manifold block in the valley with lines attached to the rear blockoff plates, how does the coolant flow work? I am probably wrong about this, but I always though both of those blockoff plates would have coolant flowing out along with the added ports due to the pump pushing coolant into the block into the timing cover area below. I'm just trying to get a better idea on direction of flow in the block / heads. And if I am thinking correctly, those ports you made in the head are where the tubes get installed where the cracking happens between the valves?
Coolant flows out of the heads into that block in the valley then a single line from that block to the water crossover past the thermostat.
The lines are -4an or 1/4" ID, it looks like a lot of water will be flowing but with only 1 out line it's only 1/4" of flow, enough for better circulation. And then the turbo is -4an in and -6an out.
Last edited by a moderator:
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I like this concept. wonder if this will even out the cooling effect where the #8 will no longer be the hottest part of the engine. I wonder how much of a spacer you will need to clear the intake with those ports. I got a glimpse of the 6.2 I have on the stand and saw just how close those plugs are to the intake ports on the head. it's really tight between the two!
I don't know if this mod would work with a stock intake, the lower intake I'm using is taller and has a lot of clearance.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Chris and I spoke about this before. Allowing a small amount to flow equally amongst all 8 head steam pockets should have no effect on the balance of the flow. That is where ai think it is a perfectly safe alteration. And benifit of removing any trapped air of the “steam pocket” so there is coolant exhange there. Stock, there is basically no flow that occurs at the plug. And since any “flow is coming out the head at absolutely the hottest location of the head- win.
Where I am leery is the two rear block off plates. GM went through dozens of iterations attempting to use the location already in place and found disaster with most configurations and only a couple that seemed to have no effect positive or negative.
Notice what you don’t see with Chris’ manifold. An exit for continual flow. So pressure is fully balanced and no flow alterations are occurring. Remember me posting about the cavitation issues along the cylinders that occured among most of GM’s trails from the “rear head cooling kits”. Chris will face none of those negative repercussions because he is allowing the trapped air to escape and full liquid contact within the steam pockets but it not trying to pump out the coolant there. He also is not making the mistake GM did on the reverse flow systems of the corvettes where they were cracking heads in 5,000 mile intervals by shoving cool water into the hottest part of the heads.
I have my optimizer heads and was planning doing the bronze tube inserts then adding a hose with cap at the end. That way I can bleed the air 100% and could play with options like this in the future if I ever get to it. Having it capped and not flowing adds no risk because there is no flow originally. Unless a hose blows...
Where I am leery is the two rear block off plates. GM went through dozens of iterations attempting to use the location already in place and found disaster with most configurations and only a couple that seemed to have no effect positive or negative.
Notice what you don’t see with Chris’ manifold. An exit for continual flow. So pressure is fully balanced and no flow alterations are occurring. Remember me posting about the cavitation issues along the cylinders that occured among most of GM’s trails from the “rear head cooling kits”. Chris will face none of those negative repercussions because he is allowing the trapped air to escape and full liquid contact within the steam pockets but it not trying to pump out the coolant there. He also is not making the mistake GM did on the reverse flow systems of the corvettes where they were cracking heads in 5,000 mile intervals by shoving cool water into the hottest part of the heads.
I have my optimizer heads and was planning doing the bronze tube inserts then adding a hose with cap at the end. That way I can bleed the air 100% and could play with options like this in the future if I ever get to it. Having it capped and not flowing adds no risk because there is no flow originally. Unless a hose blows...
I figured 10 points that are exiting 1 1/4 tube it's nothing more than a constant bleed for trapped air and slow flow. I doubt it will affect anything in a negative way.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Could not see from the photos on whether there was a ECT sensor in the head. Or more specifically, if one is not in the port by cylinder #8, might consider this.
Benefits are twofold. Serves as a stand-by should the primary ECT sending unit by unplugging from #1 and connecting to the port unit at #8. Or by modding to a dual gauge system for actively monitoring ECT at both locations.
So if there is any interest in adding the second ECT sending unit, now is a good time as it is a lot easier with the engine out of the bay. Turns into a real pain once the engine is on its mounts.
Benefits are twofold. Serves as a stand-by should the primary ECT sending unit by unplugging from #1 and connecting to the port unit at #8. Or by modding to a dual gauge system for actively monitoring ECT at both locations.
So if there is any interest in adding the second ECT sending unit, now is a good time as it is a lot easier with the engine out of the bay. Turns into a real pain once the engine is on its mounts.
I have a ect gauge on the pillar set, it is also tied into my hydraulic fan system electronics , it will be @ #8, the factory gauge will be @ #1, so yes I will have 2 ect gauges.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Do you have a thread where you discuss the hydraulic fan system? Electric fans had been suggested to me while I'm into this one of mine, but I hadn't heard about hydraulic, except in a different system where the radiator is mounted in a remote location.
Mine is a 1off, the electric would be cheaper.
Ok, yea there is a thread here somewhere, a search should find it.
It's a old thread and a change or two have been made but it's still working as designed...
Received my new fan system today
This fan system has been developed and custom built by Unique Diesel, it's been a 2 year project that got started when I decided I wanted something better than what was available. I am a "one off" kind of guy, I like thinking out of the box. I knew I wasn't capable of figuring out the electronic...
www.thetruckstop.us
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Thanks!
jrsavoie
Recruit
I'm sorry, every time I see the thread title, the urologist comes to mind