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Plugged Fueltank cap

bison said:
Did you check/clean all the batt connections/cables and groundlugs?
Are the batts load tested?.
If above is ok and you get 12v at the small starter solenoid wire then i say the starter has serious issues either with the solenoid contacts or with poor brush contact to the armature slip ring.
Stiff starterfork/bendex(dryed or no grease,cold weather) movement can prevent the solenoid washer to bottom out against the contact bolts.
Click to expand...

6.5 93'... ground lugs didn't look bad and have star washers but no I didn't clean them but tight. Batt's tested twice and still new. cleaned very good terminals. man put a dab of grease on the brush holder side bearing when he put it back together. no oil in there.

the + battery cable is suspect I think. The starter end looked ok as they usually do away from the acid. And the 2 batterys connector cable, I only dug a little into the wire near the ends not where it connects. I need to did into the ends of the connector at both sides to see if I find what I found at the starter cable battery end + . I'll start at the connector ends cause they are right up front. Then I'll have to drop the starter again and replace the + cable I think. O'Reilly has a cheaper one that I can bend the end on 90 degrees at the solenoid to better get it on with but it may be of a slightly smaller gauge I think cause the stock was really huge not swelled either from corrosion. Hitting the starter with the hammer may be inconclusive. it did it once, but it will do that with the key when giving trouble. Oh, and it's getting oil on it from I think the depression regulator area that may be shot...didn't seem to be getting inside the starter but may be it's cooling the out side shrinking the housing onto the still hot armature inside?
 
JMJNet said:
x2 with bison.

Also, if you still have the nice rubber/plastic cap on the battery cable terminal connector, peel it off so the metal part can have better connection.

Do us a favor by having a signature that signifies the model year of the truck, etc. so we know what we are talking about without going to the 1st page.
Click to expand...

6.5 93' I did that, yes it gets in the way but then I dug all the way into it as per the good photos that another guy posted and found corrosion where it matters most.
 
bison said:
Did you check/clean all the batt connections/cables and groundlugs?
Are the batts load tested?.
If above is ok and you get 12v at the small starter solenoid wire then i say the starter has serious issues either with the solenoid contacts or with poor brush contact to the armature slip ring.
Stiff starterfork/bendex(dryed or no grease,cold weather) movement can prevent the solenoid washer to bottom out against the contact bolts.
Click to expand...

I'm getting good clicks all the time. it wasn't always that way. the book says as low as what 9.5 volts and it should click. New contact washer. but we know that's not beyond suspicion. When I hit the starter it was all up and down the casing not too hard but when I hit it near the end by the brushes it cranked. Couldn't get it to do it again though. I waited...cooled down?? And remember right after the fuel bled down and I stalled It cranked beautifully! the first time then no 15 sec. later.
 
To set up you signature click on "Forum Actions" at the top of the page. On the left side of the page that comes up there is "Edit Signature"
 
JMJNet said:
I know that is one of the contributing factor to the problem.
it protects for along time and then it gets in the way of contact. but at high mileage/ exposure, the corrosion gets under it.
Don't ask how I know, though.
Click to expand...

took off the battery connector cable + to + and it is no good. vein of corrosion up the cable from corroded connection just like the starter cable was under the rubber protector at the terminal. But the end of the starter cable looks good. no visible corrosion and don't want to slit the covering back and ruin it... yet. I was able to remove the nut holding the cable on the solenoid through the wheel well! pretty good huh. But the cable is rapped up in the harness their so unless I start hacking away at the plastic covering protector stuff and un-clip some stuff, I can't get it off by itself. I wanted to get it off and dig into that end and find some corrosion and the problem. So I could add a 4 gauge wire like a scab and hope it does the most work. Or maybe voltage would rather sit in the old wire like it might be doing now. Or just disconnect it and leave it hanging in there. The little bolt at the other end of the starter is working it's way out I can see and maybe the starter is sagging a bit and jamming when hot. Oh. it don't start cold either... Mystery: why is the positive terminal on the driver side battery leaking acid and corroding the terminal so very quickly? Their suppose to leak a little I'm told. Or is there some draw going on like a circuit...
 
bison said:
Did you check/clean all the batt connections/cables and groundlugs?
Are the batts load tested?.
If above is ok and you get 12v at the small starter solenoid wire then i say the starter has serious issues either with the solenoid contacts or with poor brush contact to the armature slip ring.
Stiff starterfork/bendex(dryed or no grease,cold weather) movement can prevent the solenoid washer to bottom out against the contact bolts.
Click to expand...

OK, the connector cable of both positive terminals is bad as suspected. The cable back to the starter seems bad only on the bat end where I put a cheapy new terminal on. I'm trying to remove the whole cable without damaging the harness too much so I can dig into that end and look for corrosion. I got the 17 mm nut off the bat solenoid terminal through the wheel well! I'm separating the wires off the cable that go to the terminal on the fire wall. I could just leave it disconnected and put on a new one. Yeah, especially cause the new one might not be the problem. The O'Reilly's auto parts one is #4 gauge wire the original is a bull, very fat and probably a #2 or even a #1. The small fastener on the brush end of the starter...third support... has worked it's way loose but still supporting the starter I can see through the wheel well. That's where I hit it with the hammer and was able to get it to crank. Hmmmm.
 
Dood!!!!!!, and I been wondering whether the 4 gauge cables to the starter and cross over like they sell in the store were good enough...or just a #2 to the starter. And it looks like you don't go down the sides of the shroud with that cross over?
 
after looking at that resume, I might ask: how about the bulk head connector. How come mine is not coming off easily, I don't want to break it.
 
that small starter mount rod with washer and nut...the third mounting gizmo. The nut is stuck on the rod that moves too easily into the starter with no nut to lock it on the other side.
 
nealpellecchia said:
that small starter mount rod with washer and nut...the third mounting gizmo. The nut is stuck on the rod that moves too easily into the starter with no nut to lock it on the other side.[/QUOTE
The mounting hole is treaded,maybe be yours is stripped and the stud spins.
You might have to remove the starter to fix that.
Click to expand...
 
bison said:
nealpellecchia said:
that small starter mount rod with washer and nut...the third mounting gizmo. The nut is stuck on the rod that moves too easily into the starter with no nut to lock it on the other side.[/QUOTE
The mounting hole is treaded,maybe be yours is stripped and the stud spins.
You might have to remove the starter to fix that.
Click to expand...

Looked it over pretty good it seems as tight as the inch pounds they're talking for a while I'll keep an eye on it. Well I got the starter cable out through the fender well. Clipped a plastic connector off removed nut and washer with a swivel on a 17mm socket on a slight angle. I pulled all the wrap off and razor cut the ends and tape holding the little wire to it and one clamp and took it off. Cut the rubber end off over the bad part and you can see the corrosion just like in the others. What good is all that #2 wire when it is corroded. I'm trying to convince myself to just put on the #4 cable they sell in the stores. The starter end don't come bent like the factory one and the #2 will be harder I think. You need this to keep it away from the other terminals and go straight to the starter. More problems. I found all these issues and I hope that rebuild will be happy for it and be done.
Click to expand...
 
bison said:
nealpellecchia said:
that small starter mount rod with washer and nut...the third mounting gizmo. The nut is stuck on the rod that moves too easily into the starter with no nut to lock it on the other side.[/QUOTE
The mounting hole is treaded,maybe be yours is stripped and the stud spins.
You might have to remove the starter to fix that.
Click to expand...

the positive terminal had corrosion on it so i dug deeper and there seemed to be something whitish under the wire to clamp that I assumed was more corrosion. I dug into all the others and it looks like solder. Isn't solder famous for cold spots and not a good conductor? Or is this stuff ok cause I pryed the connectors apart, even at the starter and see fresh looking silver. I'm starting to think that yes I had some dirty terminals but no it's the starter. I haven't yet tried to start it since I tightened the nut on the rod #3 support.
Click to expand...
 
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