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Please help - 95 Suburban 6.5TD stalled and won't start

Gentlemen, I've got good news and 6 words to say to y’all - thank you, thank you, thank you - my car is running!! It was so simple - the ECM fuse was blown. Even though I had checked it last night in a hurry, I apparently didn't check it properly and didn't visually notice a small break on the top of the fuse where it curves - using an ohm meter would certainly have identified this problem sooner....

Thank you again to everyone on this lovely site who rallied together so quickly and contributed towards solving my problem - your individual input was most valuable and I learnt a lot. As a result of what JIFaire suggested, I took off the cables from all 4 battery posts and cleaned them properly, especially the positive on the passenger side holding the 2 cables.

Would you mind if I passed a special word of thanks to the following people, whose contributions were particularly significant to me - this does not mean that everyone else’s contributions were not significant, OK?….: Acesneights for being so insistent that it was the fuse. I decided to go with his suggestion as it made sense to me - and he was so right. Radio man, who so kindly went to the trouble of taking and posting 2 photos of the fuse box and diagram on his truck - this helped me identify the location of the exact fuse - and his question: “How are you checking the fuses?” This question rang a bell and prompted me to go back and look at the fuses again…

And finally Slim Shady, who encouraged me to hang in there by saying: “Take a deep breath, it can be fixed with everyone's help. We have some of the best technicians around on the 6.5 diesel.” I felt so encouraged by these words and decided not to call a tow truck….

Hope to be talking to everyone soon down the road...

Again, many thanks and warmest regards,
 
Best Thanks you can give us is to tell your friends about the site, glad to see you got her up & running again, next piece of advice get that driver out of the engine bay, SS Diesel is wrong, you can count maybe on 1 and part of another hand the healthy drivers that have died when mounted out of the engine bay. Friends don't let their friends drive with an underhood mounted driver, people that make a living selling drivers do though.
 
We're glad you got this worked out. Its the people here that makes this place what it is today. Without the trusted 6.5 drivers, their dedication, their knowledge, this section would be nonexistent. I truly appreciate everyone here who bends over backwards to help another member, and often times a stranger, to get back on the road with little help from outside agencies.

We here have an amazing member base. As you now know, these guys got you all squared away, and they'd do it again if the situation arises. We hope you chose to stick with us here at DTR and we'd all like to offer the warmest welcome to you and many successful ventures in the future.
 
No problem. Just don't forget about us. Stick around, read and enjoy. I helped you fix your truck..yes..but everything and i mean everything I know about 6.5s I learned from the guys on this site(and our old site). NOw Again, listen to me...Check the wire from Alt to bat(the heavy gauge one). Make sure it is clean and tight. Fuses don't blow without a reason. Dirty electrical connections cause resistance which can blow a fuse.
 
Hi again gentlemen...I have two more questions if you don't mind:. 1. Turbine Doc has suggested that I move the SS Diesel FSD away from the manifold to under the front bumper. My question is how do I do this, and how and where do I mount it??? Is there a link you can refer me to where this is explained? Where can I get a wiring harness that is long enough to accomodate relocation of the driver? Will I need to drill holes into the bumper? Can I use the existing holes on the SS Heat Sync?

Question 2. Acesneights1 has suggested that I check and tighten the heavy guage wire that goes from the alterator to the battery. Now guys, you're talking to someone that does not have a lot of experience with mechanical/electrical things, so where do I find the wire - do I locate it from the top of the car, or is it accessed from underneath? And the connections to tighten it - are they accessed from the top or bottom? Should I take off the connections, clean them with a degreaser and then bolt them back on again - is this what you mean?

Again, thank you in anticipation for your continuing help...
 
Not gonna be much help for you locating wires - It's too cold out right now for me to go look at things - BUT - Clean the wire connectors (lugs) with a Dremel tool with a stainless steel brush on it - Grease isn't the problem, corrosion is.
You can extend the harness yourself - Not a big deal. Read up here and the place (I know you know where that is). Lots of info on keeping your electrical connections clean on both sites too. Think Ground Wires!
I'd bet that a loose ground or loose battery connecton is why your fuse blew (protecting the computer running the truck). When a wire is loose it arcs while trying to make contact - That arc is a high voltage, electrically noisy, physically hot series of pulses --- High voltage kills electronic devices! You lucked out this time and the fuse saved your ECM. You really need to find out why the fuse blew and making sure everything is clean (wire brush again) and tight is the only way.
On edit: A wire (or connection) being loose isn't always correctable just by tighting it up with a wrench! The arc mentioned up there causes splattering of the metals that are being subjected to the arcing. Too much splatter and you will not get a good connection even with the nut and bolt components tight. They have to be clean and tight.
 
luv2rin said:
Hi again gentlemen...I have two more questions if you don't mind:. 1. Turbine Doc has suggested that I move the SS Diesel FSD away from the manifold to under the front bumper. My question is how do I do this, and how and where do I mount it??? Is there a link you can refer me to where this is explained? Where can I get a wiring harness that is long enough to accomodate relocation of the driver? Will I need to drill holes into the bumper? Can I use the existing holes on the SS Heat Sync?

Question 2. Acesneights1 has suggested that I check and tighten the heavy guage wire that goes from the alterator to the battery. Now guys, you're talking to someone that does not have a lot of experience with mechanical/electrical things, so where do I find the wire - do I locate it from the top of the car, or is it accessed from underneath? And the connections to tighten it - are they accessed from the top or bottom? Should I take off the connections, clean them with a degreaser and then bolt them back on again - is this what you mean?

Again, thank you in anticipation for your continuing help...
Click to expand...
I bought my extension cable from from Accurate Diesel. It was excellent quality. You can mount your SS Diesel sink in the bumper nostril. That's what I did and most people do. The wire I referrerred to goes from the back of the alternator to the passenger side battery. All cables should be cleaned and tightenend but I mentioned that one because it is often overlooked and can definitely be a problem. If you plan on keeping your 6.5 and like it do alot of reading here. Even if you are not that mechanically inclined it still helps to atleast know because 90% of diesel mechanics(95% GM Mechanics) cannot work on a 6.5.
 
>Even if you are not that mechanically inclined it still helps to atleast know because 90% of diesel mechanics(95% GM Mechanics) cannot work on a 6.5.<

Yup!

My $.02 check the grounds (see Turbine Docs post), replace the Alt wire as Aces has said (it is a joke), and clean the fuses (see TurboTahoe post).

The worry about the PMD relocation to the bumper.

Then soon the Heath air induction kit will be out and you can replace the SS intake which draws in too much hot air.

BTW Nice picture with the Airstream! Love it!
 
Yep, that fuse is hard to see when it is broken. Did the same thing, finally, found that one after checking it a few time and changing the GP controller.

As everybody suggested, get the SSD heatsink out of your engine compartment. If you have money to buy those heatsink, put in another $50 to get the extension and be done with it. It is the best investment. Now, there is no guarantee on how long that baked PMD can last. But it will be definitely longer than if you keep it on the intake.
 
rtdhsp said:
IM new but it has to be the fuse or youre puter is fryed.(unless your ignition switch is not sending power)
Click to expand...

Howdy glad you made it to the site IM New; we aren't new; decades maybe centuries of collective 6.5 wisdom here :D which makes this the best 6.5 site on the net.

It's not always the case as simple as a fuse, most common is a fried PMD/FSD or poor grounds, sometimes the ignition switch, & least common is fried PCM. The DS4 IP is a little daunting but once understood not unsurmountable to maintain them.

As you will see in post 21 last Oct. 2008 we fixed this one collectively rather quickly. Key to success is good input on our troubleshooting page, and as accurate a description as possible of what is going on.

Welcome again
 
The inside of the swing down front skid/splash pan is a great place to mount the PMD cooler.

Just remove the two bolts at the rear of the pan and allow it it swing down.

Using the coolers holes as a guide, drill holes in the pan and fasten the cooler to the pan.
You will likely need two spacers to allow the thing to bolt on and the fins to clear the pan.

The Extension cables as mentioned are readily available from several online sources.

I bought mine off ebay.

HINT I would get a second cooler that the one you have, keep the one you have with its PMD where it is.

Mount the new one down under and then "WHEN" the PMD fails you have a spare up top that you can plug in quickly without tools and getting dirty. Hnady when its nasty weather and your out and about/

A New DTECH PMD is a great choice. Be sure to install the proper resistor in the PMD plug slot on the PMD

If you cant read the number on the existing one get a #5.

The resistor will only go in one way. There is a tab on one and plus the resistor is shaped top fit into the plug slot just like the cable that plugs in there.

You can route the new cable around from the intake manifold area where the PMD is now and over past the ABS box and then down past the steering box and into the lower pan area.

Some folks mount the PMD in the "Nostril" in the bumper but I prefer the lower pan area.

Also it would be a grand Idea to have a couple spare fuses for the one that blew stuck in the ditty box

Good luck and glad to have ya onboard


Missy
 
luv2rin said:
Hi again gentlemen...I have two more questions if you don't mind:. 1. Turbine Doc has suggested that I move the SS Diesel FSD away from the manifold to under the front bumper. My question is how do I do this, and how and where do I mount it??? Is there a link you can refer me to where this is explained? Where can I get a wiring harness that is long enough to accomodate relocation of the driver? Will I need to drill holes into the bumper? Can I use the existing holes on the SS Heat Sync?

Question 2. Acesneights1 has suggested that I check and tighten the heavy guage wire that goes from the alterator to the battery. Now guys, you're talking to someone that does not have a lot of experience with mechanical/electrical things, so where do I find the wire - do I locate it from the top of the car, or is it accessed from underneath? And the connections to tighten it - are they accessed from the top or bottom? Should I take off the connections, clean them with a degreaser and then bolt them back on again - is this what you mean?

Again, thank you in anticipation for your continuing help...
Click to expand...

Luv2in - I must tell you, the 6.5 will make you a better, more experienced mechanic. I love mine, but it does require frequent underhood visits. I'm heading underhood right now.

Good luck, glad to have you on board, and yes, this is the best place on the web for our 6.5.
 
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