Pipe Thread Sealant

[Matt Bachand]

For pipe threads in automotive use on the engine block, oil system, coolant system I use Versachem #2 or permatex #2 , i think they are identical. Stuff does not leak. Also great for head bolts. Dont get it on your skin cause its not coming off.

Assembling while wet??

Not a thread hijack at all. This was exactly the type of input I wanted to read.

If I do a pressurized repair in the summer, I can bet the farm its gonna leak in 6 months.... I'm trying to avaoid this, and learn proper habit.

Ideal situations rarely apply.


Also, paste probably isn't a good option if your plumbing, as well as your hands and face and everything else is getting dripped on with fuel.

At least after the initial rubber transformations you can then clamp off the rubber fuel line. That hard line may last longer, but it blows to work with. Not to mention trying to get it out of the factory holders with the fragile brake lines.....

 

[btfarm]

On the stainless steel subject. Does anybody know of a particular product good at sealing stainless?

We use tons of stainless fittings on our meat processing machines. There is a teflon tape (silver colored) specifically for that. We also use a Loctite thread seal liquid for our hydraulics. I used the tape when I did my underground water fittings in stainless on my farm water hydrant. I was tired of digging it up every 7-8 years...)

Disclaimer: Not knocking any Engineers or Draftsmen on this Forum. Unless you were employed at any of my places of employment

Glad you cleared that up Leo so I wasn't too offended...:rolleyes5:


J/K I was a mechanic LONG before I became an engineer.

Assembling while wet??

If it's for fuel or oil Matt, I usually use the Loctite hydraulic stuff I 'borrow' from work. What's probably better is the specific sealer for automotive fuels and oils. And they're always done wet.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Nothing beats the voice of experience...

Thanks alot btfarm for that info...I was wondering what they kept you around for.... now I know!:thumbsup:

 

[btfarm]

I was wondering what they kept you around for.... now I know!:thumbsup:

Dammit... blew my cover.:mad2:







):h

 

[indybeck]

As far as stainless goes, I always thought that it was harder, therfore tougher thread engagement. Brass seals beautifully, so I was just assuming. But you know what assuming does!

 

[NVW]

J/K I was a mechanic LONG before I became an engineer.

That would have made you a much better Engineer. Every engineer should have to tear apart their designs):h

 

[davo727]

Hey Matt,
Yes for oil or antifreeze fittings and head bolts and other bolts that go into the block or heads I love that #2 versachem/ #2 permatex.

Edit: I havent used on fluids other than oil, gear lube, antifreeze

Assembling while wet??

Not a thread hijack at all. This was exactly the type of input I wanted to read.

If I do a pressurized repair in the summer, I can bet the farm its gonna leak in 6 months.... I'm trying to avaoid this, and learn proper habit.

Ideal situations rarely apply.


Also, paste probably isn't a good option if your plumbing, as well as your hands and face and everything else is getting dripped on with fuel.

At least after the initial rubber transformations you can then clamp off the rubber fuel line. That hard line may last longer, but it blows to work with. Not to mention trying to get it out of the factory holders with the fragile brake lines.....

 

[540s10]

I told both of those guys, -as it pertains to NPT threads, -if what they were telling me was 100% true, I would challenge them to a little experiment. I told them that anti-seize was some of the best thread lube out there, -and that I would challenge them to a gas leakdown test with them using nothing but anti-seize for thread lube, -and I would use teflon tape. ):h

anti-seize is poor lubricant, it's intended purpose is to prevent seizure caused by electrolysis and corrosion between dissimilar metals.

if you did that same test with 30wt motor oil or a moly based assembly lube the results would be much different providing the fitting was not over torqued.

 

[schiker]

Well there is a reason the tape or dope is made of Teflon. Its a good lubricant. But it also fills voids and seals. You might get lucky with good fittings made of similar soft metals they might seal one time with oil but I doubt steel fittings or dissimilar metals cast vs machined etc would and you are overtorqing them to seal without dope or tape with just oil. Maybe the tape fills better cause its harder and plugs up the gaps and packs harder cause it won't squeeze out as easy turning the threads together.

I've seen guys paint plumbing fittings with fast drying paint (then let set a minute) and it seals them up fine for a pretty good long time if they are not touched.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

OK I might as well add my 2Cents worth.

I will not use tape on anything that can end up in the fuel injection system and or around an auto tranny.

Coolant plumbing can be a bitch as antifreeze can go through anything.

I use high temp silicone on most taper pipe threads. Just be sure to keep the stuff back a thread or two from the end so the stuff can't get into places you dont want it. (fuel or tranny)

Never had even one leak with the stuff.

The good thing about the silicone is that it seals and will come loose later if need be.

The quick connectors on the heater feed (Crossover) that come from GM are junk. Use the NAPA steel ones and add a little high temp silicone and your set.

Just my way of doing it.

Missy