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Permanent fuel pressure gauge

DEERE3594

I welcome everyone...not just Penguins!
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Dose anyone have a permanent mounted fuel pressure gauge? Good or bad idea? Where is a good place to tap in? Thanks!
 
I have one, and were it gasoline I'd be worried, but with Diesel flash risk is pretty low, I mounted mine in the tee I put at outlet of my filter mgr whenI did FTB, used copper tube vs. nylon, if it sprins a leak in the short run that is in the cab or gage leaks, I have a cap I can put on the tee. Mine is mounted for now next to steering wheel in plastic trim section just below dash gage trim bezel may go to gauge pilar, or dash itself 1 day, you will want to monitor supply to the IP, tee into the hose at IP inlet, or if you do a FTB mod, in the outlet of filter mgr as I did.
 
I have one, and were it gasoline I'd be worried, but with Diesel flash risk is pretty low, I mounted mine in the tee I put at outlet of my filter mgr whenI did FTB, used copper tube vs. nylon, if it sprins a leak in the short run that is in the cab or gage leaks, I have a cap I can put on the tee. Mine is mounted for now next to steering wheel in plastic trim section just below dash gage trim bezel may go to gauge pilar, or dash itself 1 day, you will want to monitor supply to the IP, tee into the hose at IP inlet, or if you do a FTB mod, in the outlet of filter mgr as I did.

Are you using a gauge filled w/ glycerine..?
 
No,

Just a regular low $$$ mechanical gage intended to fit on a carburator under hood, my thinking is this; if robust enough to sit on top of a carb, under hood and not be a danger to spray hot inflammable gasoline on top of an engine, then risk of leak in cab with Diesel fuel while possible, is slight.

using 1/8" copper line vs nylon less risk of chafe rupture, also Diesel has to be atomized & subjected to heat to flash( same reason a dripping return line doesn't catch fire generally), or directed onto open flame, psi on lift pump is 10 psi or less, actuallly started out as a temporary test item that has become permanent last 2 years of it being on there. Electrical remote sensing would be the safest way to read pressure in the cab.

It reads supply to IP so if in crash it shuts off with engine/lost OPS signal, as it operates normally as lift pump runs.
 
I bought an electric version, so no fuel lines to run. T-ed in right before the IP. Bought a cheap one from e-guages. Have a dual guage mount below the ashtray in my Burb.

See signature for my love of the fuel pressure guage.
 
I get one electrical from Glow Shift. Works fine.
I have the sensor pluggedjust before the DAHL fuel/water separator, wich is itself placed before the stock fuel filter.
Should have placed it rigth at the bleeder valve, before IP.

I get a 3 gauges pillar. Fuel, boost and EGT.
 
mine is mounted in the radio delete cubby. I t'd in right before IP, this way I know what pressure the IP is getting, including a plugged fuel filter, bad fuel cap. after the tee I put in a cut-off to the gauge (in case of leak or problem citing TD's valid concern) pic is pre-cutoff. Has worked perfect for 9 months now.
 

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I assembled this from parts laying around the garage. I think I'll hook it directly to the IP and leave it under the hood in a Ziploc and taped to the fender though a bracketed mounted to the hood is a consideration as well. I'm mildly curious if that valve is going to weep if not fully closed or fully open.

Thoughts? Anyone.
 

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I assembled this from parts laying around the garage. I think I'll hook it directly to the IP and leave it under the hood in a Ziploc and taped to the fender though a bracketed mounted to the hood is a consideration as well. I'm mildly curious if that valve is going to weep if not fully closed or fully open.

Thoughts? Anyone.

If it weeps just snug the nut below the tee, it will compress the packing around the shaft. Leo
 
Electric Autometer 15 psi full sweep in the bottom position of 3 unit A pillar pod. Tee'ed between filter and IP. A definate good choice for 3rd gauge when not an automatic.

Having lost a lift pump at some point and didn't know it until next fuel filter change I'd say its a good idea. No lift pump and it will cause accelerated wear and tear on your IP. Certain years the 5.9 Cummins crowd has a worse problem and I know of one 5.9 driver that lost his IP due to fuel starvation.

No it won't kill a 6.5's IP very fast but over time it will do damage to starve the IP.
 
Plumbing this to where the water valve drain is permanately is a bad idea? Would I need to take off the intakes to get to the fuel lines to t inbetween Flt mgr and IP?
 
Wouldn't be a problem. Turbine Doc did this with his FTB mod. Fitting is at the filter manager. Couldn't find a pic on this site but if you go back to the old site and search for "feeding the beast" with titles only checked, there is a pic in post 2.
 
Wouldn't be a problem. Turbine Doc did this with his FTB mod. Fitting is at the filter manager. Couldn't find a pic on this site but if you go back to the old site and search for "feeding the beast" with titles only checked, there is a pic in post 2.

Its been a few years since i've read FTB actually, and I am alot more in tune with the guts of the 6.5 now. Few years back FTW was way above me. Perhaps I will re-read and learn again.
 
Yes I have (2), one at my Racor as well as the filter mgr with red LED for each to let me know which filter is the culprit.

Actually, a dummy light for fuel pressure wouldn't be as fun to watch or as cool as another guage, but would probably be simple to do, and be almost as efective as a fuel guage for diagnosing the initial 'whats happeneing now' when a problem arises.
 
I was hijacking your thread to clear something up. The idiot light is to tell you when your filter is clogged. You start sucking a vacuum. With that switch when vacuum reaches 7"Hg the light comes on.
 
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I was hijacking your thread to clear something up. The idiot light is to tell you when your filter is clogged. You start sucking a vacuum. With that switch when vacuum reaches 7psi the light comes on.

Well, would need a pressure switch then, switches at <4 or 5 psi then?
 
Well, would need a pressure switch then, switches at <4 or 5 psi then?

That light would probably come on too much as in probable flicker with a std lift pump. Mine the needle bounces and dances from 3-6 psi depending normally. It dips lower under heavy pedal and load near 1-2 psi then recovers.

I dislike warning lights in general because they only alert you after the fact. For example with gauges like temperature, oil pressure etc who wants to ride miles and miles right on the margin before oil pressure light comes on. When if on the other hand you had a guage you can be more proactive and see when it trends low.

Say if fuel pressure consitently stays low I'll change filter or look for problems but so far regular filter maintenance has kept positive pressure.


Now a warning light to say hey YOU look at this gauge NOW I do like. Because sometimes your mind wanders and can miss a sudden change.
 
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