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Performance Cam

buddy

buddy

Active Member
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Location
California, central coast
Is there a good thread about camshafts? Any gains to be had? I had read the one from SSD provided some low end bump in performance.

With stock valves and springs would it matter?

Could it help off the line, or with slight turbo lag on ATT? Maybe get rid of that puff of black smoke that I didnt have with the GM4?

Thanks, Tom
 
I don't think the cost of the camshaft change would warrant the slight if any gain in low end performance. I would be interested in seeing the cam shaft profile verses the factory cam profile.

I
 
Slim Shady said:
I don't think the cost of the camshaft change would warrant the slight if any gain in low end performance. I would be interested in seeing the cam shaft profile verses the factory cam profile.

I
Click to expand...

Add power to your 6.5TD with our performance cam kit.

Specs as follows...

Advertised Duration (Exhaust):300 Deg
Advertised Duration (Intake):260 Deg
Cam Lift (Exhaust):.281"
Cam Lift (Intake):.281"
Cam Timing at .050" Lobe Lift (Exhaust Close):17 Deg BTC
Cam Timing at .050" Lobe Lift (Exhaust Open):39 Deg BBC
Cam Timing at .050" Lobe Lift (Intake Close):11 Deg ABC
Cam Timing at .050" Lobe Lift (Intake Open):13 Deg ATC
Degrees Overlap:65 Deg
Duration at .050" Lobe Lift (Exhaust):202 Deg
Duration at .050" Lobe Lift (Intake):178 Deg
Lobe Centerline (Exhaust):120 Deg
Lobe Centerline (Intake):101 Deg
Valve Lash (Exhaust):Hyd.
Valve Lash (Intake):Hyd.
Valve Lift (Exhaust):.422"
Valve Lift (Intake):.422"

Anybody know what stock is?
 
buddy said:
Thanks,

Dragogt, can you explain how the performance cam increases power, or what kind of change one should expect?
Click to expand...

Now I am not the most knowledgeable cam guy, so I may be talking out my a$$, but here is my best guess:

Basically by changing the cam profile (the shape of the lobes) you are changeing the lift and duration of the valves. The height of the lobe is the lift. The angle of the faces of the lobes affects the speed that the valves are opened and the duration that they stay open. That is why gasser guys go with "knife edge" cams, because they snap open the valves.

So by changing cams you affect how effectively the air is drawn in, you can tailor a cam to be most effective for low end torque or high end power. Based on the power curve you want many companies will be able to customs grind you a cam.

AnnotatedCamLobeLarge.gif


Guys, feel free to tell me what I am doing wrong here!
 
In a Huffer engine (Blower or turbo) the "wild assed cam" idea does far less than a more conservative profile.

The rumpy cam in a blower motor is actually a bad plan.

The cam profile and part number for a 6.2 N/A and a 6.5 TD are the same shaft.

With 10 PSI sitting on the valve when it opens the cylinder gets stuffed anyway.

The high lift long duration cams are fine in an N/A gasser as it allows for better breathing but really the wrong answer for a deisel, especially a turboed one.

Of all the performance stuff common to diesels the cam is not normally modified.

MGW
 
dragogt said:
Add power to your 6.5TD with our performance cam kit.

Specs as follows...

Advertised Duration (Exhaust):300 Deg
Advertised Duration (Intake):260 Deg
Cam Lift (Exhaust):.281"
Cam Lift (Intake):.281"
Cam Timing at .050" Lobe Lift (Exhaust Close):17 Deg BTC
Cam Timing at .050" Lobe Lift (Exhaust Open):39 Deg BBC
Cam Timing at .050" Lobe Lift (Intake Close):11 Deg ABC
Cam Timing at .050" Lobe Lift (Intake Open):13 Deg ATC
Degrees Overlap:65 Deg
Duration at .050" Lobe Lift (Exhaust):202 Deg
Duration at .050" Lobe Lift (Intake):178 Deg
Lobe Centerline (Exhaust):120 Deg
Lobe Centerline (Intake):101 Deg
Valve Lash (Exhaust):Hyd.
Valve Lash (Intake):Hyd.
Valve Lift (Exhaust):.422"
Valve Lift (Intake):.422"

Anybody know what stock is?
Click to expand...

I am glad you asked :D

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3393233&postcount=136

I am working on a custom billet camshaft right now, but the specs for it wouldn't be useful to any of you guys/girls anyways ):h
 
Last edited:
dragogt said:
Add power to your 6.5TD with our performance cam kit.

Specs as follows...

Advertised Duration (Exhaust):300 Deg
Advertised Duration (Intake):260 Deg
Cam Lift (Exhaust):.281"
Cam Lift (Intake):.281"
Cam Timing at .050" Lobe Lift (Exhaust Close):17 Deg BTC
Cam Timing at .050" Lobe Lift (Exhaust Open):39 Deg BBC
Cam Timing at .050" Lobe Lift (Intake Close):11 Deg ABC
Cam Timing at .050" Lobe Lift (Intake Open):13 Deg ATC
Degrees Overlap:65 Deg
Duration at .050" Lobe Lift (Exhaust):202 Deg
Duration at .050" Lobe Lift (Intake):178 Deg
Lobe Centerline (Exhaust):120 Deg
Lobe Centerline (Intake):101 Deg
Valve Lash (Exhaust):Hyd.
Valve Lash (Intake):Hyd.
Valve Lift (Exhaust):.422"
Valve Lift (Intake):.422"

Anybody know what stock is?
Click to expand...

chevyinlinesix said:
I am glad you asked :D

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3393233&postcount=136

I am working on a custom billet camshaft right now, but the specs for it wouldn't be useful to any of you guys/girls anyways ):h
Click to expand...

Intake center line = 101 deg.
Intake duration = 184 deg.
Intake valve lift = .404"
Intake valve drop @ TDC = .056"

open close
Intake = 12 deg. ATDC 16 deg. ABDC
Exhaust = 42 deg. BBDC 10 deg. BTDC

Exhaust center line = 117.5 deg.
Exhaust duration = 212 deg.
Exhaust valve lift = .355"
Exhaust valve drop @ TDC = .057"

Lobe separation = 109.25 deg.
Ground in advance = 8.25 deg.
__________________
 
Yeah gotta agree with missy. seen alot of diesels in my time and the only reason I've ever changed a cam was cause the Dynatard killed it..:D
 
There is plenty to be had with an aftermarket camshaft in a 6.5 turbo diesel, provided you loose the insanely restrictive exhaust manifolds. There is a reason the factory camshaft works so well, it is because they designed it to match the bad manifolds and exhaust setup. Take that away and the rules change drastically.
 
Keep in mind that there is very little room in this engine as far as dealing with Valve to piston clearance.

The piston comes to within .035" of the head at TDC

Granted the manifolds and such are not Top fuel stuff or even street strip stuff but these engines were designed to make about 200HP and about 400 Lbft of torque and do it at under 3000 RPM

This is not a rocket ship.

A good flowing exhaust system and crossover pipe along with a top notch power chip will get these things to a point at which you are not going to get much more reliable power from them without issues of reliability.

The 6.5 is not a racer and unless one wants to spend Big Dollars and buy a forged crank, aftermarket block (or a new AMG block with the girdle) and then build the thing form the ground up as a MOOSE the excercise is one thats dubious at best.

The results are still limited by the small size of the cooling system and its ability to reject heat.


In a truck/Burb/Blazer/Tahoe 300 HP is about tops and still keep reliability as far as keeping it cool.

Now in a boat with water jacket aftercoolers and all the cold water in the pond to cool the beast, 400 HP is well within the scope of things.

Just my 2 cents worth


Missy
 
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