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Passenger Side Valve Cover Removal

Big T

Big T

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Do I need to detach the injector lines at the IP in order to remove the passenger side valve cover? Would like to bypass pulling the upper and lower intake manifold.

I have the turbo pulled and shield pulled with full access to the injectors, so they are ready to come out.

The the turbo exhaust elbow only had 3 of 4 Allen bolts attaching it, thus explaining the small exhaust leak there. Also was missing one of the 4 flange nuts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold, which is par for the course for me. Need to start installing with blue loctite.
 
I would think so... I don't believe you want to bend those injection lines. IIRC, I heard somewhere that the injection lines have a coating on the inside of the lines and bending them would damage that coating.
 
Yes you need to remove them.
Trying to force it past will bend them.
No, there isn’t coating, but the slightest kink will wreck the flow.

I have wished many times there was a set of lines that could be done to allow the covers removed without taking them off.

Fighting the lines is so annoying, part of the reason I like db2. Retiming is much easier than ds4- so instead of undoing the lines at rear of pump, popping off the ip with all 8 lines remaining attached has happened more than once. When both valve covers have to come off, I definitely pull my pump. It is much less aggravation imo.
I really can’t remember how bad it is resetting a ds4, decades passed.
 
Sanding block the turbo flange of the exhaust manifold. I use a nice flat piece of a 2X4 block, split so it is more like a 2X3, a partial sheet of black wet or dry 80 grit sanding paper stapled at the ends and make that flange flat once more.
I have a permanent grinding station set up in the garage. A sheet of 1/2” steel with two sheets of 80 grit black sanding paper glued down atop of it.
Remove the studs from the turbo and sand flat that flange too.
Use a new gasket when installing the turbo.
 
I too wish there was a set of lines made that would route around the valve covers. I'm sure someone like Twisted steel or Leroy could design a set! that would be awesome!
 
Yeah, problem is they all 8 have to be same exact length, then the cost vs how often it becomes worth having. A coupling on the valley would work, but expense means it won’t happen for a possibility once or twice in engine life time saver device. I was thinking about them a lot considering individual adjustable roller rockers, and 2 piece valve cover.
But the gains just aren’t worth time & money.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Sanding block the turbo flange of the exhaust manifold. I use a nice flat piece of a 2X4 block, split so it is more like a 2X3, a partial sheet of black wet or dry 80 grit sanding paper stapled at the ends and make that flange flat once more.
I have a permanent grinding station set up in the garage. A sheet of 1/2” steel with two sheets of 80 grit black sanding paper glued down atop of it.
Remove the studs from the turbo and sand flat that flange too.
Use a new gasket when installing the turbo.
Click to expand...

Gasket? This has never had a gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. Did not realize there was one there.

Intake manifolds are off as are the injector lines. Ready to pull the valve cover.
 
Big T said:
Gasket? This has never had a gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. Did not realize there was one there.

Intake manifolds are off as are the injector lines. Ready to pull the valve cover.
Click to expand...
I dont know if it is OE or not. I do believe though that Oreillys parts shows one.
I always replace the gasket between turbo and flange. I do know that the one for the 5.9 cummins is the same.
Might be someone with more knowledge on the matter will kicknin.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I dont know if it is OE or not. I do believe though that Oreillys parts shows one.
I always replace the gasket between turbo and flange. I do know that the one for the 5.9 cummins is the same.
Might be someone with more knowledge on the matter will kicknin.
Click to expand...

I forget how to get the valve cover off??? Just pry with screw driver, working your way around?
 
MrMarty51 said:
Yup. Could place a 2X4 against the top side, where the strength of the curve is, and tap the 2X4 with a hammer.
Careful and not distort the cover.
Click to expand...

Got it off by sliding/prying a screwdriver on the front upper corner with minimal distortion that I hammered. Need to make a run for Brake cleaner and a couple flange nuts (one for the turbo and two for battery grounds.
 
Be sure to get all the old gasket off the head! I literally had to use a hammer and chisel to get it all off! gasket was so old and hard as a rock. back in the day mechanic shops would use that yellow monkey snot (weather strip sealant) on valve cover gaskets. worked wonders till you had to do the job again! made for a hellofa time getting it off the cover and head let alone separating the two!
 
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