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P0087 Low Rail Pressure Code

kennedydiesel.com/detail.cfm?ID=446

I used these twins and fabricated a setup myself. I put these in between my Nicktane setup in the rear and the Nicktane setup in the front. I have it mounted on the rail under the driver's side. They are also fail-safe. Even if the pump breaks, the fuel can flow through the pump.

I PM'd you. ;)
 
I run a single on my BURB, and it does great for up to 400HP(although many have pushed them much higher).
 
I am at +85 (so 445 HP) on the Predator. I suppose I should have the dual setup. Eventually I'm probably going EFI though. Unless, of course, a lift pump eliminates the 2nd gear stumble with the Predator.
 
btfarm said:
I am at +85 (so 445 HP) on the Predator. I suppose I should have the dual setup. Eventually I'm probably going EFI though. Unless, of course, a lift pump eliminates the 2nd gear stumble with the Predator.
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Closer to 390 would be my guess at the wheels. I know I'm running in the 390-400 range at the wheels with my BURB(many would say I'm being rather conservative with my estimate after riding in it) with a single, and have no problems holding rail pressure. The biggest reason for needing a lift pump is to combat acceleration. The harder you accelerate, the harder the CP3 has to work to move fuel. This is why many can hold rail pressure on the dyno at 500HP without a lift pump, but if you do it on the track it will drain the rail out in no time. The single KENNEDY lift pump at 13 volts can move right at a gallon a minute of fuel after the factory filter set-up. Ttested it on my truck, and I could fill a 5 gallon can of fuel in right at 6 minutes. That's enough fuel to support roughly 650HP, but when you add in pushing the fuel up the line against G forces of acceleration you are back in the 400-450HP range(to be safe). Another mod you can do is to open up your filter head and take right at 2 rings of the main check ball spring off to lessen the amount of vacuum needed to pull fuel through the filter head. I checked a new filter head with a vacuum pump, and found it took almost 20 inches of vacuum to fully open the check ball(it took 5 inches of vacuum before it even flowed). I know I gained almost 3000 PSI of rail pressure with my failing CP3 by modifying the filter head check ball spring.
 
I'm shimmed with a new line under the truck (buddy a GM warrantied it at over 200K miles) maybe the next trick is to modify the filter head to skimp by a bit longer lol.
 
Mike, if you buy two of those lift pumps you could give me one!! :thumbsup: I think I already know what your answer will be BT!:D I have been putting it off also as I wanted to spend the money on other things but, I think I need to move up the priority for the lift pump considerably.

I am going with the Air Dog II when I do mine. I know others will say it is overkill but, that's OK also.
 
Just a side note. The Nicktane setup on the motor replaces the OEM filter setup and eliminates the ball inside. I run the 2 micron small can up front. It does make a big difference.
 
Walking around $ is a bit tight right now so I may just screw around with the shortening the spring for the time being.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
...Another mod you can do is to open up your filter head and take right at 2 rings of the main check ball spring off to lessen the amount of vacuum needed to pull fuel through the filter head. I checked a new filter head with a vacuum pump, and found it took almost 20 inches of vacuum to fully open the check ball(it took 5 inches of vacuum before it even flowed). I know I gained almost 3000 PSI of rail pressure with my failing CP3 by modifying the filter head check ball spring.
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Good info here Ferm. I'm due for a new FF in the next week or so (at about 10k since) and am seeing quite a bit of lag on acceleration that usually goes away after a filter change. I checked the primer pump right after I got home yesterday and it took several pumps to firm up so I ordered a Nictane head kit off ebay and will do the spring trim while at it. Now's a good time since the truck is headed to Colorado in a few weeks.
 
I'm just rebuilding the stock head and modifyng the check valve. Staying with the stock unit for now.

Here below is a pic of what my new lift pump setup looks like: :D

20130908_141821 (1).jpg
 
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I thought you mentioned you were getting a Nicktane filter head kit to replace the OEM filter. With the OEM adapter, and using the CAT 2 micron cans, it will pay for itself in no time, and you will have easier filter changes to boot.
 
Rebuilt the filter head yesterday and trimmed 1 1/2 coils off the check valve spring. Hammered it this AM a bit and didn't starve it and throw a code but that could just be a result of the new filter too. I have a PPE shim kit for the FPR spring but didn't feel like screwing around trying to get all the crap out of the way to get to the relief valve after spending several hours doing other maint.
 
Is anyone besides me surprised at how dirty this is at 8800 miles and threw P0087s 2 days in a row? As soon as I changed it the problem went away. Guess that's what I get for filling up at a different place.

8e5yju3a.jpg


Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Wow, mine typically make 10-12k and still look clean. I bought bout 20 or 30 of them, I change everytime I get low rail while unloaded.

I still haven't done a lp to help the ol' gal out.

source unknown
 
RI Chevy Silveradoman said:
You need to get the tall can spin-ons Mike! :D
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Yeah, yeah I know...
tanman_2006 said:
Wow, mine typically make 10-12k and still look clean.
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Yeah I've never seen one that bad before even at 15k+ a bit. Truck was just fine until I decided to save a few miles and buy at a less frequently used Mobil in town. Next two days did it in.


Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Wow, to plug an otherwise good filter in 2nd days/1 tank means there has to be on heck of a sediment load in their tank.

source unknown
 
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