OPS wild swings, Lp not working when engine is shut down

[orrum]

Need help, got all my stuff 2gether to do my OPS relay and momentary LP priming switch mod and took it out to the truck. Wanted to run to the neighbors house first so started truck or I should say tried to start truck, it would not fire up and when I stopped cranking the lift pump would run and run and finally shut off. Finally started the truck and had some white smoke, usually have none. Drove up the road and when I hit the brake the oil pressure would peg and when I hit the trottle it would go down but not down to where it usually runs. Kept stopping and pulling out to see what would happen and now the needle fluctuates with the throttle while sitting in park. It seems to only happen below 20 mph. Lift pump is working cause I can feel it running with my hand while truck idles and I did the fuse thing on the hot post with the truck off and the LP rattles nice and loud. However the LP usually runs a few seconds after I turn the engine off and now it doesnt. The truck runs great, nice and smooth at all speeds and shifts nice. I just went thru a horror story setting the TPS and checked all the grounds then and added three grounds. It really seems to be associated with the throttle, I push the throttle and it pegs the needle, if I keep giving it more throttle it falls back to about 40 lbs and then idles down to the normal 30lbs. Please dont let it be the TPS, I dont think I can get the thing off. Anyway I need a quick fix, I am supposed to go to the Lumber River Campground weekend trailride this afternoon and its only 12 miles there but I dont want to tear my truck up by pulling the horse trailer and horses there and back Sunday! Thanks!!!!

 

[orrum]

Oops did not mean dont let it be the TPS. I meant dont let it be the OPS, I dont think I can get to it and I sure dont have the fancy socket to fit it!

 

[ak diesel driver]

sounds like the OPS 1 1/16" socket but has to be extra deep. crows foot maybe

 

[3500GMC]

Lisle makes a fancy socket. Most 'parts' stores will carry it. Bought mine at Orielly after not having good results with some other tools. 12 bucks I think.

 

[orrum]

Hey guys this 6.2 has a huge metal gray cylinder for a OPS, its looks bigger around than 1 1/16 and I really dont want to tackle that thing, thats why I got the stuff to do the OPS bypass mod and LP primer button mod! I just know my luck aint so bad that if I would a fixxed it a couple days ago this wouldnt have happened! Pls aint there something else???? I am partway thru putting the above mentioned mods in hoping the OPS will work correctly without the LP load on it. Hey I know if it works I am riding a horse with a bad set of wheels that could quit in mid stride n leave me dusted in the dirt but hey I gotta get to the trail ride! All I need is 30 miles for the round trip!

 

[Acesneights1]

Just wire the lift pump to the key. That should get you through the weekend, of course by doing so you bypass the fire/accident safety feature of the OPS.
Sure you got oil pressure ???

 

[orrum]

Ok I did the OPS bypass mod and the momentary primer switch mod 4 the LP and everything now works great! While hooking up the ground to the relay and battery terminal I found that the little bolts holding the grd cable were wobble loose and so I took the cable out and cleaned it and the clamp up and put it back together with my wire for the relay ground and now the oil pressure gauge just bounces normal like. Grounds, grounds, grounds, gotta constantly check every available ground b4 anything else!!!! Both mods work great and I know the OPS is probably on its way out but its acting normal now and I know how to hook the relay to make it work from another source and how to unplug the OPS from the relay to get home if the OPS craps out, I hope that never happens!!!! Anyway thanks again and I am headed to the barn now to load her up n HIT THE TRAIL MI AMIGOS!!!!! Ace that is such a terrible thought about the oil pressure!!!! How would I know if there is oil pressure???? Done drove it about 60 miles since this problem began, its not knocking. Does a diesel sound like a gas engine tapping when it has too low a oil pressure? I know what that sounds like.

 

[Acesneights1]

You probably would have blown the motor by now but if you suspect oil pressure problems hook a mechanical test gauge where the OPS goes.

 

[orrum]

Ace ole buddy I seriously do not think I can get the OPS off, if I could I would put one of Leroys extensions on it and his 6 inch one would not b long enough and put a new OPS on it! That OPS is a huge metal antique and apparently ya'll put a socket over the whole thing. Its pointed in a very bad direction to ever get a socket on it. The good news ole boy is I am @ the campground kickin back sippin some fine stump hole white likker and my truck and crappy OPS is right here with me! LOL Using a campers wireless net thats next door to me and sharing my stump hole with them, they do not seem to appreciate that k-1 kerosene burn that this stuff has as it goes down!!! LOL Its a acquired taste. I am seriously wondering why I cant put a OPS in the oil cooler line going to the oil cooler? I have no idea where the oil cooler line is but it cant be a worse place than where the OPS is now. Lotta oil coolers in that statement.......reminds me of the thing about " How much wood can a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?" Wow thats easier to type than say! Ace thank u sir we will continue this OPS thing and definitely the AC thing after this wknd, its so hot here that when I went to move my old chocolate brown Mercedes out of the way of the horse trailer the temp gauge on the engine registered 110 b4 I started it! BTU 2/55 in the truck aint gettin it!

 

[Burning oil]

My OPS extensions are 24". Can you get a picture of your OPS?

Glad you got it fixed up.

 

[orrum]

Hello Leroy!!!! Are u a person known to partake of the white spirit produced by the folks who adamately avoid paying likker taxation???? LOL Actually I will try to get a pic but Leroy that thing is way down in behind the intake sorta under what I think is the glow plug controller and it sure looks bigger than 1 1/16, and pointed toward the passenger side but also sorta pointed forward too and there aint much lite and I use my camera phone and text it to my email. Maybe some one here @ the trailride has a digital camera that can somehow put the pic on my laptop. I just am not all that digital. Hey if ur OPS extension is that long it would make a excellant vibration dampener extension for electric fuel pressure sensors, the fitting is the same size isnt it? U oughta sell them all made up with a tee and a needle valve to act as a adjustable snubber to save the fluctuation from wearing the little wire out, u cant use a store bought snubber cause everyones LP puts out differently so the needle valve lets u custom adjust the snubbing effect and also if u get a new LP u can easily readjust it plus as the LP ages u need to fine tune ur adjustment. Adjust it so when u crank the engine it jumps up a little and then it slowly crawls up to ur actual fuel pressure. Makes for a nice steady needle thats easy to read. I havent got mine put in yet but I got a friend of mine that races dragsters to show me how to do it, I b glad to try out a prototype I am going to tee mine with a valve right b4 the needle valve so I can open the valve to bleed air 4 filter changes. Thanks partner 4 all ur help! THIS FORUM IS AWESOME!!!! I SAID AWESOME!!!

 

[Burning oil]

I have these http://www.pmdcable.com/FUEL_PRESSURE_TAP.html see bottom pic with the valve. I can open the valve and direct the fuel into a container instead of all down the engine and I can pour that fuel back into the tank. (not much but why waste it)
The OPS extension has 1/4" pipe threads. What are you saying is the same size?

 

[orrum]

The needle valve is a brass thing with a 1/4 inch hole in each side, one for the fuel pressure sensor and the other to screw the grease gun hose into for ur extension, but the longest extension I could find was 18 inches. A two foot extension would be better. U c u could offer it all, the hose with a tee in it with a drain valve that has a needle valve made in it already. Heck u could get it all made together. With a two foot extension it would be easy to get to the drain valve and like u said not spill fuel everywhere. Less chance for leaks and way better lookin than mine will be with hose barb tees all over with screw clamps.

 

[orrum]

Try hooking urs up like I said Leroy n I bet u will like ur gauge better and ur sensor wont quit. I dont have that drain 2 hook 2. Would that drain measure pre ip or pre filter? The gauge people say that the engine vibration ruins the sensors and the rubber hose extension isolates the sensor away from the vibration and absorbs the vibration that does exist, plus the rubber hose expands and contracts a certain amount. The race car people have a big problem with vibration and so they do this and apparently diesel vibration is a lot worse than gastruck engine vibration.

 

[Acesneights1]

Alright, I better see directions and pictures of how to build a still including the recipe for the mash. I tried unsuccessfully when I was teen, got our asses kicked for drilling a hole in my best friends mothers pressure cooker...She caught us in the garage building it with stuff I copied from encyclopedia . Only book readin I ever did in HS...:rof:

 

[orrum]

http://www.dangerouslaboratories.org/moon1.html Look here Ace, Leroy thanks for how to attach a address, I kept looking on this forum but u do it with the laptop address. This is how I made my stovetop kettle still, do not use their recipe for mash with regular bread yeast, it tastes awful, Go to a wine making shop in ur town and buy a packet of " Turbo Yeast" it will ferment a wine base up to 20 % alcohol in 7-10 days and u will get much more white likker, by using wine u actually get brandy, dont worry it will be so high octane it will burn with a clear blue flame! LOL . Use 4.5 cups of sugar, (this makes about 14 %) alcohol per gallon of of wine mix, I use water bubblers stuck in the jug to keep bad tasting wild yeasts and bacteria out while it ferments. Throw in some mashed up overripe peaches for peach brandy or blackberries for blackberry brandy etc. This is mostly for looks. Put the turbo yeast in a small amount of warm water with a tablespoon of sugar in it for 15 to 20 minutes and then stir it into ur mash mix. Oh yea use a piece of cloth to pour the mash thru into the kettle, that way the solids dont stick to the bottom of the kettle and burn. Then follow the still address directions, u can get the tea kettle at walmart. U get a pint of very high quality brandy from a gallon of mash. Put the brandy in pint jars with a slice of peach for peach brandy or a few blackberrys for blackberry etc and it will flavor the brandy. Brandy is a distilled spirit and has no flavor, u have to add flavor to it or dont and u get true white likker. The one pic is of a 5 gallon water dispenser plastic jug, it has a bubbler that contains a water barrier that bubbles as the wine ferments, the bubbler is about $3.00 and the stopper another $3.00 this is muskedine grape wine that makes very good brandy. The other pic is of gallon glass vinegar jugs with blueberry and blackberry wine mix. Ace I dont use a milk jug for the water bath, I use a plastic drywall bucket and set it up on the deck picnic table with my hot plate and just let the water hose dribble in steady and that way u dont need the ice and u can do a lot in a hurry, save ur first lil bit and all the stuff that is left in the kettle and use it for the liquid to make more wine, u will have a good bit of likker left in it. Dont use regular bread yeast it only makes about 6=7 % alcohol and then the yeast dies. Save some of the dregs from ur fermenting jug and use it for the yeast for the next batch of wine. Absolutley do run the finished likker thru a second time cause u will get almost all off it out as likker. About 90 % on the second run. It will be much smoother tasting. Age it for a year and the fruit taste gets real good from the fruit u add to the finished likker. Shake the pint jar and watch the bubbles, the smaller they are and the longer they stick to the glass the higher the percentage alcohol!!!! This is called beading. Hey I was born n raised in the Appalachian mtns in Va. we hillbillies brought whiskey stills with us from Scotland instead of clothes etc! LOL Oh if u like rum use brown sugar instead of white sugar.

 

[Acesneights1]

I'm printing this out...

 

[Burning oil]

:friday::cheers2: Have a happy 4th.

 

[orrum]

Thanks Leroy and all u guys that got me there!!!! Hey what a great camping trailride! Great friends, great food and no PROBLEM with the truck. The oil pressure gauge never did any strange wierd things! Whew that OPS might last a while. Ace has me worried tho about oil pressure. My truck has 294000 miles. The oil pressure is a little below 40 when cold and runs about 35 at hiway speed and drops to about 20 when hot at a idle but when towing the horse trailer the temp goes up to about 190 and the oil pressure at idle in gear at a stop sign goes down to almost touch the red marks on the gauge, I would say about 12 or so but u know there are no numbers on the gauge. As soon as u give it gas and drive off it goes back up to 30-35. My neighbors 2007 duramax diesel hasnt had what I call good oil pressure since it was new.....It runs about 20=25 hot. Is this a chevy thing?????

 

[Acesneights1]

GM's for the most part always had better oil circuits so less pressure was needed. Even the Small blocks ran on zilch where as a Ford Clevland or Winsor needed 60+ to keep from spinning a bearing. Guess it carried over to the diesels. Your numbers are a little low at idle but like you said 300k what do you expect. Could probably switch to straight weight oil and pickup a psi or two...