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OLDDDDDD fuel

540s10

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Shrewsbury,MA
will diesel that has been sitting in the tank for a good long while burn any different than stuff fresh from the pump?
 
I stored my truck for three years with the same fuel in it. It got horrible fuel mileage but ran fine.
 
You need to make sure it doesn't have algae growing in it, but other than that you should be fine.
 
Crud in your tank can cause havoc especially in cold climates. You are best to drop the tank, clean it well, and fill with good fuel. Being in the salt belts, that sux to do especially with questionable sending unit conditions....

Can jump LP, and drain contents via water T valve drain, but that doesn't get the crud out which can clog up the sock in the tank. Crud being possible algea, rust, or crud.

Could pump it out, which would get more crud than above method, but not spotless clean.

Or could drive it out, but I'd keep a spare fuel filter with you, just in case. (should do anyhow)

Last winter I had all sorts of starvation problems once the fuel started to get cold and thick.

If your FSU looks like its in decent shape, I'd drop the tank and clean it out, that way you know for sure whats passing through your truck. Its still warm out. Much better now than in the cold.

Regarldess what you do, add Power Service and SAE-30 Non Detergent or 2-Stroke per tankful to lube up the ULSD that our pumps aren't made to run on for longevity and smoothness.
 
It had algae in the filter housing when i got it, but the tank is nice and clean and the fuel is visably clean, i was just wondering if it lost its effectiveness as gas does.
 
As Matt said, it's particularly a good idea to carry a spare fuel filter or 2 in your situation.

Microbial growth in diesel typically happens when there's a bit of water in the storage tank & the bugs grow on the water/diesel interface. There are biocide diesel fuel additives you can buy. I'd read up a bit on them before deciding to use one.

As the biocide kills the growth, the biomass breaks up & the cellular debris flows with the fuel. They're less dense than diesel so the stuff doesn't settle out & collect in fuel filter sediment/water bowls. But luckily the debris is big enough the fuel filter will catch it.

Don't know how close you guys are to the coast. Folks that deal w/ sailboats with auxiliary diesels see this issue once in a while.
 
Add in some BIO-CIDE and let it sit for a day or two after a shock treatment and carry some spare fuel filters with you. Diesel doesn't lose it's BTU's from sitting like gas does, this is why you find that almost all standby generators are either natural gas, propane, or diesel. The first bit of diesel that I ran my DMAX on in the BURB was over 3 years old, and after I got a good set of injectors it ran flawless and I never had filter problems. Many think that diesel that old is bad when they see it because of the color, but diesel prior to ULSD was a different color and viscosity(it feels slimy compared to the new ULSD, that's the extra lubricity in it).
 
Add in some BIO-CIDE and let it sit for a day or two after a shock treatment and carry some spare fuel filters with you. Diesel doesn't lose it's BTU's from sitting like gas does, this is why you find that almost all standby generators are either natural gas, propane, or diesel. The first bit of diesel that I ran my DMAX on in the BURB was over 3 years old, and after I got a good set of injectors it ran flawless and I never had filter problems. Many think that diesel that old is bad when they see it because of the color, but diesel prior to ULSD was a different color and viscosity(it feels slimy compared to the new ULSD, that's the extra lubricity in it).

:iagree:
If your concerned pump it into your house and burn it for heat. It should be fine with some bio cide and a filter change unless your overrun with algae then a tank cleaning maybe in order. I did have to drop a tank on my 83 because it was so bad.
 
I have let it sit for about a year... And it still started right up and was fine mileage/power wise.

It depends what a long time is I suppose :)
 
If really concerned about it, you could "strip it" through a filter.

Northern or most farm supply stores sell them for transfer tanks "Goldenrod" comes to mind, like you commonly see on the end of a farmers transfer tank/pump set up "strip" your old fuel through that, then put it back in the trucks tank mix in some "fresh fuel with the old" & carry several spare filters with you so when the on engine one clogs up and you lose power you'll have a fresh filter handy to restore the power. I would do that before adding algaecide becasuse if algae is present in the fuel killing it can cause a "mud" of dead algae on bottom of the tank that can clog up the tank sock.
 
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