NVW
Well-Known Member
I may be wrong Simon, but don't the HD 2500 and 3500 trucks with the 5068 IP need the 94 HD Eprom? I think the 5067 was in all other models and interchange with all other IP's.
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Ok...now im totally stumped!
- Thread starter Darkrider
- Start date
I may be wrong Simon, but don't the HD 2500 and 3500 trucks with the 5068 IP need the 94 HD Eprom? I think the 5067 was in all other models and interchange with all other IP's.
bison
Well-Known Member
It sure seems to act like a PMD still?? Do you have another known good one to try?
Darkrider
Lobo Solitario
Ok is it possible to see what model the pump is without taking off the intake?
Darkrider
Lobo Solitario
Its running on the new one i got from you now. Now it just seems like its got no fuel. Like theres a restriction in either the supply side or the return side. Possibly tank sock? Because it will run, it no longer goes into the barely idling and rough idle problem it was doing before. It just surges for a moment then stalls out like the fuel supply has been cut.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
disconnect the fuel line to the IP and run a hose into a 5 gal can full of fuel and see how it runs. this will tell if it's fuel or electrical
bison
Well-Known Member
Do you see now how important a in cab fuel pressure gauge is?.
Darkrider
Lobo Solitario
Ok just to clarify what you ment here. you mean disconnect the line between the FFM and the IP and run a line from the IP into the jerry can? And im guessing i need to disconnect the Lift pump so it isnt spewing fuel all over the place from the disconnected line.
Yup!...That is why the next time i work on it which will be this weekend there will be a mechanical fuel pressure gauge being installed between the FFM and IP. Then eventually once i get this thing running again i will add an Autometer in cab Fuel pressure gauge.
Darkrider
Lobo Solitario
Ok how would this pump compare to the OEM Lift pump?
http://store.prestoliteperformance.com/micro-electric-fuel-pump-diesel.html
12-volt electric diesel fuel transfer pump is safe for diesel fuel use. Simple 2 wire design, self priming, includes 100 micron in line filter. 4-7psi 35GPH, small universal design allows easy set and installation anywhere. Solid state worry free electronics, 12 volt negative ground systems only. *NOT FOR FUEL INJECTED APPLICATIONS*
http://store.prestoliteperformance.com/micro-electric-fuel-pump-diesel.html
12-volt electric diesel fuel transfer pump is safe for diesel fuel use. Simple 2 wire design, self priming, includes 100 micron in line filter. 4-7psi 35GPH, small universal design allows easy set and installation anywhere. Solid state worry free electronics, 12 volt negative ground systems only. *NOT FOR FUEL INJECTED APPLICATIONS*
I know, but hey its man made right. I have been having great luck with the Flight Systems PMDs though, but you never know and it sure does give the symptoms of a bad one. I hope its not
That pump IMO is not a good choice. The stock type would be better. Is it flow on fail? DS4 needs 9psi
Darkrider
Lobo Solitario
Ahh ok thus why a lot of the guys run the walbro you sell?
great white
Well-Known Member
AK mentioned it in his first post; have you checked to see if the fuel cap is causing excessive vacuum in the tank yet?
Darkrider
Lobo Solitario
No I didn't, how would I test that? Just remove the cap when it stalls?
Sent from my SGH-T959D using Tapatalk 2
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
or just leave it loose all the time
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
and yes to the jerry can
great white
Well-Known Member
Yup.
Some vacuum is normal.
As the fuel leaves the tank on it's way to the IP, the cap lets air in behind it. If the cap does not let air in, the fuel eventually won't flow out of the tank leading to fuel starvation at the IP and then stalling.
If the vacuum is excessive, that means the cap is not venting properly.
Some people have reported the tank sides collapsing and permanently deformed from this problem.
If your truck starts after letting the vacuum out, then try driving it with the cap just a touch loose to let air in around the threads.
Or, as AK mentioned, just leave it a touch loose and if the truck doesn't hesitate or stall out at the usual 20 min mark you may have found your problem.
This:
really does make it sound like a fuel starvation problem and the cap is a likley culprit if your lift pump and IP are working up to snuff......
Darkrider
Lobo Solitario
I think the junkyard PMD that was in the truck was part of the problem as well since after installing the new PMD from Leroy the run time jumped up to about 45 min. and after we swapped the lift pump it went up again to nearly an hour. And the hot starting and just sputtering stopped after i switched to the original computer. So all that is left really is that cap and/or plugged return lines and clogged up tank sock. Either way we are dropping the tank on sat to change the fuel sending unit for one with a new tank sock installed. That may solve my fuel gauge reading problem. When i start test driving it after that work is done i will test the cap during those runs.
So goals for sat:
Installing inline fuel pressure gauge under the hood
new tank sock
clear lines with air.
Hopefully be rid of all these problems!! lol Im thinking a lot of it could be debris from when the truck was sitting for nearly a year after the previous owner replaced it with a Cummins powered Ram. And running what i thought was good fuel only to find out it was in fact contaminated which led to massive gelling problems during the winter prob did not help at all.
So goals for sat:
Installing inline fuel pressure gauge under the hood
new tank sock
clear lines with air.
Hopefully be rid of all these problems!! lol Im thinking a lot of it could be debris from when the truck was sitting for nearly a year after the previous owner replaced it with a Cummins powered Ram. And running what i thought was good fuel only to find out it was in fact contaminated which led to massive gelling problems during the winter prob did not help at all.
NVW
Well-Known Member
After fueling up I seat my fuel cap. then turn it as if I was going to remove it but stop as soon as resistance is felt. This way it seems to breathe better.
I would not use an after market fuel sock. They are a finer mesh and will plug easily, also no bypass in them. The stock one wont fit most aftermarket units either. IMO remove it and install a spin on 30 micron filter or buy the GM sending unit.
Darkrider
Lobo Solitario
I ordered an AC Delco fuel sock...isnt that the stock type? On a side note...if i did decide to not run it do i need to add anything to replace it on the sending unit? What im more then likely gonna do later on is rebuild the sending unit assembly that is being removed from the truck on Saturday with one of your meterum rod sending units and was considering eliminating the tank sock then.