Oil

[Stoney]

One tells opinion synthetic ,,non-synthetic or semi synthetic? Anyway It will be rotella

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

For a 6.5l rotella 15w40 dino is more than adequite imo. If you do go synthetic, mobil 1 5w40 synthetic is a better oil. Nothing againdt rotella's t6, but it is well documented that it is not a true synthetic, but instead a synthetic blend.

 

[NVW]

For a 6.5l rotella 15w40 dino is more than adequite imo. If you do go synthetic, mobil 1 5w40 synthetic is a better oil. Nothing againdt rotella's t6, but it is well documented that it is not a true synthetic, but instead a synthetic blend.

I believe the T5 is the blend Ferm. I use both.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I believe the T5 is the blend Ferm. I use both.

They call the T6 a synthetic, but it has been proven to not use a pure synthetic base stock. It use s a group 3 base which is a synthesized cracked petroleum base stock as I understand it, and not a true synthetic which would be a pure poa base stock. Mobil 1 is a group 4 which is also not pure poa, but a higher quality base stock. So its enough to call it synthetic, even though much of it started life as a dinosaur.

 

[CtChevy427]

I have done oil analysis using dino vs. synthetic with a 10K run. The numbers came back very close for each. I went back to regular dino and kept a big chunk of change in my pocket.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I have done oil analysis using dino vs. synthetic with a 10K run. The numbers came back very close for each. I went back to regular dino and kept a big chunk of change in my pocket.

The only reason I run synthetic is when I did my swap, I didnt have room for group 78's, so I had to run group 75's. And it spins over a good bit easier with 5w40 than it does 15w40.

 

[jrsavoie]

I've only run synthetics since the 90's. My choice was encouraged by the benefits my racing friends experienced. Longer engine life lower temps

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

One tells opinion synthetic ,,non-synthetic or semi synthetic? Anyway It will be rotella

Visit my web site and look at the download page, their you will find a independent test performed in Finland. The info in that test is very good. It's the first on the list.

https://twistedsteelperformance.com/downloads

 

[GM Guy]

I run synthetic on anything that does not leak or have consumption issues. Spins way faster on cold starts, great to have if you dont run an oil pan heater.

 

[jrsavoie]

From what I have seen, engines run on synthetic for the most part have better oil pressure and are in better condition when you start getting to the 250,000 to 400,000 mile range. You don't really notice anything in the short term. If you may be in it for the long haul, I am a firm believer that synthetic is the way to go

 

[Will L.]

From having torn down so many of these engines as test dummies for different oils- there is 3 options.

1. Cheap because you plan on rebuilding soon and won’t run it that hard. Run the dino and save some short term cash. Oil change at 2500 miles- NEVER over the 3000 mark. (Keep in mind I ran our gasser 6.0 over 30,000 miles between changes on dino, wix filters, and everything else stock).

2. Invest more in oil for better abuse capable and little longer life and get full synthetic like mobil 1. Stay on top of oilchanges by lab work is ok if you have a bypass secondary filter system.

3. Plan on keeping everything the longest and want to save the most money long term while having it most reliable even if you work it hard?— invest now. Get a bypass filter for sure to get the best results from the synthetic oil- best you can get your hands on.

I called an old workmate that is an oil engineer I delt with when I was working for oil companies when reading the info on trybodine. He said they already tested it! I immediately bought enough for multiple oil changes because the price is going to go up inthe future is theor companies estimation. He said expect over 10,000 miles from it no problem. He also said the unique additives in it makes it well worth the money. They are scrambling to come up with something competitive, but says they are 5 years away at best. He doesn’t work for the same oil company we used to, and it would be inappropriate to say who, but itnis a top rated oil company many here including myself have recommended in the past- so it’s no joke the big boys are playing catch up.

Definitely donlab testing for oil life.

The other things not oil, but related worth mentioning is filter and prelube. Get the wix or napa gold(made by wix).
And installing a prelube tank is like buying longer engine life. It gets marketed as helping if you loose oil like an oil cooler hose blows, but only buys you a few seconds- maybe thats enough, maybe not. But start up is when most wear occurs is common knowledge.
.

 

[GM Guy]

As far as brands, I would have a hard time recommending Rotella. My lowest oil PSI and highest consumption rates seem to occur with rotella in the crankcase.

 

[Big T]

Been running synthetic at 5K intervals. I buy based on price and it's typically been Mobil or Valvoline. Not clear it makes a difference. Recently picked up 4 gallons of Valvoline HD Diesel semi-synthetic in the Walmart bargain bin for $8 per gallon. I'll try that for now.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Visit my web site and look at the download page, their you will find a independent test performed in Finland. The info in that test is very good. It's the first on the list.

https://twistedsteelperformance.com/downloads

Hands down the best are synthetic NANO tungsten. Tungsten is now being dry applied on moving parts IMO a GIANT leap ahead of all other oils/lubes.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Been running synthetic at 5K intervals. I buy based on price and it's typically been Mobil or Valvoline. Not clear it makes a difference. Recently picked up 4 gallons of Valvoline HD Diesel semi-synthetic in the Walmart bargain bin for $8 per gallon. I'll try that for now.

Consider, AMSOIL can be run to 25k if using bypass filtration I ran it that way in the BURB and actually suspect most all pure synthetics can.

 

[FellowTraveler]

The other things not oil, but related worth mentioning is filter and prelube. Get the wix or napa gold(made by wix). And installing a prelube tank is like buying longer engine life. It gets marketed as helping if you loose oil like an oil cooler hose blows, but only buys you a few seconds- maybe thats enough, maybe not. But start up is when most wear occurs is common knowledge. .

OK, I'm looking into an accumulator for my Cummins and see different thoughts as 'to add oil or not add oil' to the crankcase with the install of one.....a 3 quart accumulator will never see three quarts maybe 1.5 to 2 quarts at best depending on pre-charge pressure.

My concern is excessive crankcase pressure causing leakage at the crank seals and oil blocking the turbocharger oil return causing leakage past the turbo bearing housing seals with any extra oil.

Your thoughts?

 

[JayTheCPA]

I am a firm believer that synthetic is the way to go

Depends on the powertrain and system.

When I switched my SOB diesel truck's motor over to synthetic, it was an immediate improvement in fuel economy. As I swithched the rest of the driveline over to synthetic, the fuel burn got better with each component's lube refresh.

The 6.5 though . . . That thing was a fickle beast. Seems the only things that got noticeable economy improvements were removal of the slushbox and re-gearing to 3.42's. In terms of oil life in the 6.5, the P-400 would not really support change intervals over 5K miles. The lube quality was still good, but the particulates pushed it into the 'Abnormal' range. A centrifuge might have helped on top of the existing dual filtration.

In the bigger picture though, current generation motors are calling for synthetic anyway. Manufacturers are allowing synthetics in their drivelines and state in the manuals how it is beneficial. But it is a bit surprising where they are actually installing either dyno lube or semi-synthetic.


Toward my experiences, so far I have found just one component that does not like synthetic: the car's hydraulic suspension. Tried synthetic hydraulic fluid in it when the first hydraulic pump went bad. The replacement pump only saw synthetic, but developed an un-stoppable leak and we had to replace with a new pump. The 3'rd pump started to leak after about the same mileage as the 2'nd. Seeing as that pump is not known for going bad (ie: highly durable), the 4'th pump got OE recommended (and supplied) hydraulic fluid. 4'th pump is still going strong

 

[Will L.]

OK, I'm looking into an accumulator for my Cummins and see different thoughts as 'to add oil or not add oil' to the crankcase with the install of one.....a 3 quart accumulator will never see three quarts maybe 1.5 to 2 quarts at best depending on pre-charge pressure.

My concern is excessive crankcase pressure causing leakage at the crank seals and oil blocking the turbocharger oil return causing leakage past the turbo bearing housing seals with any extra oil.

Your thoughts?

Lets do its own thread.

Oil system: pre oiler, accumulator, etc.

I am planning a pre oiler to eliminate no oil pressure start up. It is long reported this is when most engine bearing wear occurs. Please post any knowledge, theories, concearns, etc. I have worked on rigs with them, have friends that have them, installed a few on fleet trucks, but I never...

www.thetruckstop.us

I will reply response there in about an hour.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

I will be using the 3qt, precharge is only 7lbs i think so it would hold right at 3qt. The directions say to let run then shut off where the valve closes then check oil level.