Oil system: pre oiler, accumulator, etc.

[Twisted Steel Performance]

For me, the kits have already had the R&D work done and most everything has been proven and the bugs worked out long ago, the initial cost is a drop in the bucket if the total build vs rebuild cost is considered.

If a person spends X amount on a "forever motor" consider a few things, 20yrs from now just what parts will be around to rebuild again, at what cost, who would be around that knows these old motors, etc...

I look at it as cheap insurance for the long term...

@Will L. , your hummer doesn't have 20" anywhere along the frame? The unit I posted doesn't care where it's mounted...

 

[Will L.]

@WarWagon the oil pan /pickup design on these is really good- Pretty hard to get it to loose any oil pressure. But yes, there are systems used by roadcoarse and drag guys that use it as momentary supply from g-force losses.

@Twisted Steel Performance yes, the safer bet and easier would be use the proven systems they worked the kinks out of. But the current kits aren’t really who invented it. These have been on semis and yellow iton since the 60’s that I have seen. If using it for g-force loss and such, yes the electronic one are the way to go.

I am just looking for cold starts. If I ever found myself on a crazy angle off road, I could flip a switch.

I really haven’t put a tape measure anywhere yet, but I have room on driver side radiator stack to fit something.
The cost is really my big hangup. The tank alone is near probably a $150 savings area if not more. The companies selling the kits don’t make most the parts, looking at their component prices, at times when I was buying the same exact ones to use at work was available for half the price.

The control units are definitely the way to go for automatic if that’s the desire of the individual. Wire to glowplug circuit / simple switch works for me.
Tank- “T” with schrader valve- solenoid valve- hose and needed fitting into block.

 

[Will L.]

I did look into using an electric pump as prelube system, was hoping to get one that could do 100psi, sonit could also drive a centrifuge all the way to 1/10th micron. Quickly found it cost inhibitive.

Looked at using a scavenger pump just for the prelube function, easy to do for couple hundred. But how many years will that last vs a tank and valve.

If hummers dash set up was like a pickup, i would just use the ball valve and a cable to operate it. I like simplicity. I dont see the need to line the current reselling companies pockets any extra. I am considering buying one of the valves from the two more popular companies, that pricing didn’t seem to high from what I remember.

 

[emmott]

I'm also thinking of using an oil scavenge pump, any psi would be better than 0 psi at keyturn. Was thinking of assembling this

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I'm considering a pump that does less than 10psi, an oil pressure switch set to 10psi and a relay. So the pump is only on when ignition is on and pressure is less than 10psi.

 

[Will L.]

@emmott
Drawing out of the pan one concearn is: if there is a low flow situation and that scavenger pump pushesit to the engine, could it starve the pan to the point the regular oil pump couldn’t take back over.

Sending the oil to the top- nopers. You should use a check valve so it cant go backwards through the oil cooler, but tie it into the oil cooler return line. That way the oil feeds the normal route. Going in where you are, you sre not getting any oil to the crankshaft, rods, wrist pins, piston squirters.

 

[emmott]

Like this?

 

[Will L.]

Yes, either there or the other side of the cooler would be fine.
looking at the pic, it hit me, why wouldn’t you run it through the cooler first.

Now here is a thought- oil pressure drops, electric pump comes on automatically. You should have a warning signal so you know it is running. A glance at the oil pressure gauge would lie to you that all is normal because there has to be a reason you lost pressure. Leak in a line, or what? So if the pump comes on, great engine is ok for a minute, but other than shearing the oil pump drive or having the pickup screen fall off- no sudden reason will happen then be ok to drive for another 20 minutes.

Really liking this btw.

 

[emmott]

I agree it should tee into an oil cooler port because the oil supplied by the electric pump would then pass through the filter.
Is a check valve needed at the the oil cooler outlet port, isn’t the only way it can backflow would be through the mechanical oil pump gears?
Also, if not from the oil pan, where can the electric pump source oil from?

 

[Will L.]

Oil pan is correct location.
Yes, through filter and the rest of the system. Only part being missed is oil pump.

 

[emmott]

The '91 handbook says pressure can drop >11 psi across the oil cooler due to cold weather viscosity. I occasionally have -40°C (-40°F) starts, so in my case I should probably tee in after the cooler.

Whatever electric oil pump gets installed would need a minimum rating of 19 PSI to bypass the oil filter if restricted.
Can someone confirm idle volume flow rate of an oil pump on a 6.5 squirter block, and preferably link / screenshot the source of the info as well? Need to know both pressure and flow demands to avoid 'guess and check'.