Oil Leak?

[bison]

That has to be it!

My wife is into Geocaching where you find hidden caches using a handheld GPS. It's like a treasure hunt. I oblige her in this activity on our road trips. I call her GCQ or Geocache Queen.

This geocaching has me frequently exiting the highway and going offroad. There was one instance where I forgot to pull it out of 4wd Hi after re-entering the highway. I discovered this oversight a couple miles later. Wouldn't be the first and won't be the last time this happens. The original post in the thread said the vent tube blows oil if he goes above 40 mph in 4wd. Well I was on the highway, so I know I exceeded that.

So I guess I need this plastic GM Part # 12479390.

This on top of the new CDR
, idler pulley, interior hood pull handle, etc. Never ends. Maybe once I get through all this stuff, I can finally get the Heath Cooling upgrade, then the ATT Turbo and Kojo Chip? Then I'll be styling.

Oh, the check engine light just came on in the Honda Accord. It says check the fuel tank cap, or take it in to the dealer as it's probably some emission equipment that failed at 52K miles. Just what I need as I'm in the middle of going through injectors on the boat diesel. Never ends.

Steve

nope, just take it out,note the position of the baffle(has to point down with hole behind it after install) and screw it back in.

Clean and test your CDR before buying new.

 

[Big T]

Pulled the plastic plug from the differential and cleaned it up. The baffle is a a 90 degree elbow and it's free swinging and self righting downward by gravity. Hard to imagine how it could get stuck in the upright position to act like a cup. Anyway, cleaned it up and reinstalled. Hoping this does not happen again.

Steve

p.s. Heath's site says to replace the CDR every 100K. I have 160K on this one, so a new AC Delco CDR is on order. The exterior of the junction of the turbo to the intake has long been wet with oil. The turbo boost must be pushing blowby mist out at this junction.

 

[chickenhunterbob]

Well, a quick swipe of the finger revealed it to be amber liquid of relatively thin viscosity. I'm due for an oil change and the oil on the dip stick is black as usual.

Taste it, or smell it at least...by the look of the greeninsh drips in the first two photos, looks like coolant, I'd say your rad has sprung a leak.

 

[Big T]

Taste it, or smell it at least...by the look of the greeninsh drips in the first two photos, looks like coolant, I'd say your rad has sprung a leak.

I have a separate coolant leak from around the water pump itself. It's leaking from the upper driver's side of the pump, but the leak is slight. I will budget a Heath cooling upgrade on this for next month to address the leak and the cooling issues at the same time. That current pump has over 100K miles on it and it's due. It's the '97 model pump and I want the improved 2000 model and severe duty fan and clutch from Heath.

Steve

 

[bison]

Pulled the plastic plug from the differential and cleaned it up. The baffle is a a 90 degree elbow and it's free swinging and self righting downward by gravity. Hard to imagine how it could get stuck in the upright position to act like a cup. Anyway, cleaned it up and reinstalled. Hoping this does not happen again.

Steve

p.s. Heath's site says to replace the CDR every 100K. I have 160K on this one, so a new AC Delco CDR is on order. The exterior of the junction of the turbo to the intake has long been wet with oil. The turbo boost must be pushing blowby mist out at this junction.

You must allready have the upgraded breather plug,the older style had a fixed baffle.