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oil filter on a 4x4 K2500 Suburban

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pitsingerk

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Guys I need some advice. I just got this Suburban recently. I went to change the oil in it yesterday and had a hell of a time trying to remove the oil filter. What a dumb ass place to put it. I can see why it has an adapter to rotate it, but after an hour of screwing around with it, I still couldn't get it off. I'm not sure if the guy who owned it before me over tightened it or what. I tried using a standard oil filter wrench and bent the handle ruining it, tried using a socket style and it just slips on the filter. I did not have a strap wrench at my shop to get this off. I ended up putting the new oil in without changing the filter as I had to leave. My question to you is who makes a relocation kit to move this filter. I've been on Summit's website, all over ebay and didn't find anything specific to the 6.5L. I notice when buying the oil filter (which in my opinion is too small) that the 454 oil filter is the same. When I searched for the 454 oil filter kit on Summit's site, it states not to use it on diesel applications. I'm going to call them and ask why, but I thought I could try here first.
 
We hear ya on the 4x4 oil filter location. The 2wd trucks(like mine) have it vertically. 4wd as you already know has it horizontally due to the front driveshaft. But yes there could have been a better place for it. Amsoil makes an oil filter relocation kit tha a few people around here use and they seemed pleased with it. Dual filters as well so you may want to look into there kit.

I know if my filter give me trouble I get the 24" pipe wrench up on that puppy and use that to "persuade" it loose. Though I'm not quite sure how much room there is to get to the wrench up there on 4x4 trucks.

Also, mkae sure that whatever filter you do use that it has an anti-drainback valve. Reason being that since your filter lies horizontally, the oil will drain back(without that valve) resulting in a loss of oil pressure at startup. I think you know what happens when there inst oil pressure while an engine is running... Also, congrats on the new Suburban!
 
If you think the filter is bad, look at the oil cooler lines and how the're attached.
Amzoil,hastings,baldwin and many others make remote filter set-ups that work with the 6.5s.A search for remote filter here should find you several threads on installs.
 
bk95td said:
If you think the filter is bad, look at the oil cooler lines and how the're attached.
Amzoil,hastings,baldwin and many others make remote filter set-ups that work with the 6.5s.A search for remote filter here should find you several threads on installs.
Click to expand...


Thats an understatement:haha:
 
It was overtightened. Probably while getting an oil change done at Wallymart or EZ Lube. That filter is big enough that a strong hand should be able to undo it. I do all my own oil changes and rarely have this problem. However the last one was done by Jiffy Lube while my son had the truck on his honeymoon camping trip to Jasper. I had to use a filter wrench. You don't get big sweeps of the wrench due to the front drive shaft, but you can get it undone which is what you're looking to do. Just takes rotating the wrench as far as possible in the "on" direction so that when it cinches down on it, you get some grab with what little sweep you have with the wrench.
 
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When doing my remote filter setup, I copied Dennis' mounting location for the filters. That location tucks the filters up nicely above the T-bar height keeping them a bit farther away from possible road debris damage.

Building on Dennis' mount design, I also used a short piece of angle iron to bolt the filter mount to the floorpan. I angled the bracket back over/above the filter so the stress on thin floorpan sheetmetal should be more hanging than levering/twisting. The pic doesn't show it, but I later added a couple pieces of ~ 1/8" steel plate, maybe 6x6" square above/below - sandwiching the floorpan to spread the stress out.

My remote kit came with a 2 piece block adaptor (leftovers pic) that I thought added leak possibilities. So I modded the original 4x4 adaptor by cutting off the horizontal filter mounting pad, then drilling/tapping the in/out ports to adapt to AN -10 lines. Had a little leak on one of those ports that I just fixed - tapped the NPT threads in the 4x4 adaptor a bit deeper so the NPT-AN adaptor screwed further in on the taper & it's now a tight/dry connection.

Another nice advantage of that filter location is there's room to daisy chain a bypass filter if you decide to later. The low flow bypass filter could easily be fed from the end of the full-flow remote filter base. Would just need to run the bypass filter outflow back to a 0 pressure return location like Heath's FS2500 setup does to the oil fill tube.
 

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  • Dual Remote oil filters.jpg
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  • modded 4x4 filter adapter b.jpg
    modded 4x4 filter adapter b.jpg
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  • taken from level w t-bar to show how well it's tucked up in there.jpg
    taken from level w t-bar to show how well it's tucked up in there.jpg
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  • Left overs from the Summit dual remote filter kit.jpg
    Left overs from the Summit dual remote filter kit.jpg
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SmithvilleD said:
Building on Dennis' mount design, I also used a short piece of angle iron to bolt the filter mount to the floorpan. I angled the bracket back over/above the filter so the stress on thin floorpan sheetmetal should be more hanging than levering/twisting. The pic doesn't show it, but I later added a couple pieces of ~ 1/8" steel plate, maybe 6x6" square above/below - sandwiching the floorpan to spread the stress out.
Click to expand...

That's a good idea on putting the filter mount inside the angle iron. Looking at it now, I don't know why I didn't do that:thinking:

That's probably why I originally had some vibration under my feet. Once I put a large piece of steel inside the cab (originally only used large washers) and added that orange, rubber gasket material, the vibration stopped. That angle iron is on there solid!
 
Most of the mods I've done to my truck had the benefit of reviewing everything I could find on what folks had done & documented before.

I come up with a good idea every now & then but most certainly wouldn't have evolved these mods (remote filters, FTB, Walbro, Racor pre-LP filter, etc.) this far without the access to ideas these forums provide.

Was gonna weld up a bracket to hold the filter housings that would bolt to the frame. Then saw your filter setup & thought it was quicker/easier as long as the stress to the thin floorpan metal gets spread out a bunch. My concern was metal fatigue cracking the floor pan after miles & miles of flexing.
 
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