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Oil coolers and lines, changes over the years, guidance please.

L98TPI

L98TPI

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Location
Lynchburg, Virginia, USA
We just put a 98 engine in a friends 96 Suburban, now down to the last hookups. I knew there was going to be an issue with the 1/2 NPT oil cooler in out ports in the newer block because of the bigger oil pump to feed the piston squirts. I did noodle around on here and used Rock Auto to research and I am still a bit confused. The issue is of course how to deal with the stock oil lines not fitting the 1/2 NPT snap couplers. Now the first sorta red neck reaction (I never do that :D) might be to get a couple of 3/8 to 1/2 adapters, bend and maybe leave out the bracket screws, and make it work. But I don't do things half A$$ed. :rolleyes5: And you will have the issue of the factory didn't upgrade the oil cooler lines for no good reason.

There seems to be 3 or maybe 4 pairs of part numbers for just the oil cooler lines for the late trucks with the cooler in front of the radiator. In fact when this Sub had an oil line leaking out on the road, the diesel truck shop that worked on it got the wrong lines the first time they ordered, severely holding up my buddy on a work related trip. There also seems to be two oil coolers, :skep: not sure about that. Both the 96 trucks I have here, have 20mm nuts on the cooler end of the lines. I was not sure about the cooler on the subject truck until I got it to my shop today, not knowing what the previous guys did over the parts confusion.

The straight up way to go might be to buy the last design (97?-00) lines (40$ ea) and cooler (88$) so up grading to what the late trucks have. Not all that pricy either. Besides I can use his really new lines on mine. :hihi:

Opinion please.
 
If you want the last design lines, I've got a set of Dormans NIB. $10 plus shipping. They were for my '99, you can check the part #s:

1312068623.jpg


1312068599.jpg
 
Check out my videos on my site, there are two coolers the smaller port one on 92-97 The HO cooler from 97-2000.

Heres a pic of the HO cooler port. Its kind of bell shaped vs the non HO witch has straight sides.
hooilcoolerport.jpg
 
Big T said:
If you want the last design lines, I've got a set of Dormans NIB. $10 plus shipping. They were for my '99, you can check the part #s:
Click to expand...
If time was not an issue I would take you up on that deal. Shipping from CA would take a while, where I am located is central to the east coast warehouses. Advance Autos is in Roanoke less than a hour to the west, so I can get stuff from there from Am to pm and over nite with no shipping.
 
L98TPI said:
If time was not an issue I would take you up on that deal. Shipping from CA would take a while, where I am located is central to the east coast warehouses. Advance Autos is in Roanoke less than a hour to the west, so I can get stuff from there from Am to pm and over nite with no shipping.
Click to expand...

OK how about just pay the shipping. I want rid of these things, but cringe at the thought of just throwing them out.
 
Thanks good info there.:thumbsup:

The video suggests a question. You seem to imply that there is a factory hose set that that is either HO cooler to 3/8 ports or non HO cooler to 1/2" ports, or both. Besides the obvious non to 3/8 and HO to 1/2 sets. Is this the case? If so do you know the P/N? I though I saw this in the plethora of hose PN's that rock auto had. :???:

I suppose its not ideal to mix the smaller cooler on the bigger hoses, even if there were factory hoses that did (I see with your parts one could). GM never spends money to make changes with out a damn good reason. :agreed:

Burning oil said:
Check out my videos on my site, there are two coolers the smaller port one on 92-97 The HO cooler from 97-2000.
Click to expand...
 
Ok I understand not tossing them. Its not like I begrudge you 10 wing wangs, that's a deal, its the time. So what is the shipping to 24550? Got a HO cooler? :)

Another issue is how to pay you. I do paypal but this is my buddys project. I suspect we can work something out though.
Thanks.

Big T said:
OK how about just pay the shipping. I want rid of these things, but cringe at the thought of just throwing them out.
Click to expand...
 
L98TPI said:
Thanks good info there.:thumbsup:

The video suggests a question. You seem to imply that there is a factory hose set that that is either HO cooler to 3/8 ports or non HO cooler to 1/2" ports, or both. Besides the obvious non to 3/8 and HO to 1/2 sets. Is this the case? If so do you know the P/N? I though I saw this in the plethora of hose PN's that rock auto had. :???:

I suppose its not ideal to mix the smaller cooler on the bigger hoses, even if there were factory hoses that did (I see with your parts one could). GM never spends money to make changes with out a damn good reason. :agreed:
Click to expand...

Factory hoses NO! can't do it.
With my kits I can match up what you need. I just need to know what block port size you have and if you have HO or non HO cooler.
For example: you have a 93 truck (non HO) and put a 98 engine or anyother HO pump engine like a 506.
In this case I'd sell you fittings to go into the cooler and 1/2" block fittings. Hoses on all kits are the same 5/8"
 
Actually the OEM HO lines and cooler are almost exactly what his line kit is, not including shipping in either case. One plus is Leroy's stuff would allow connecting the non HO cooler to the 1/2 ports, but like I mentioned before, 'not sure if like' :skep:.

I have had experience with AN type hoses and they are tough and the lowest rated types are rated at several times the PSI they will ever see in this application. In fact the hose Russel sells with the (I think) aramid braid instead of stainless would be over kill. But there is no kill like over kill :hihi:

Why didn't gm go with AN hoses? $$$ and its way easier to get snap coupler lines installed correctly on the assembly line, especially when the workers are drunk or stoned. :rof:

NVW said:
Get either new lines or lines and cooler from www.leroydiesel.com

I doubt that his lines are any more than the factory ones.
Click to expand...
 
L98TPI said:
Actually the OEM HO lines and cooler are almost exactly what his line kit is, not including shipping in either case. One plus is Leroy's stuff would allow connecting the non HO cooler to the 1/2 ports, but like I mentioned before, 'not sure if like' :skep:.

I have had experience with AN type hoses and they are tough and the lowest rated types are rated at several times the PSI they will ever see in this application. In fact the hose Russel sells with the (I think) aramid braid instead of stainless would be over kill. But there is no kill like over kill :hihi:

Why didn't gm go with AN hoses? $$$ and its way easier to get snap coupler lines installed correctly on the assembly line, especially when the workers are drunk or stoned. :rof:
Click to expand...

A word of caution on AN hose, yes they are rated for high pressure but don't forget the temp rating. Most are only rated to 250 degrees which may sound like more than enough, but in most cases the oil going to he cooler will be a good 30-50 degrees hotter than sump temp, and sump temps will routinely get up to 200-220 if towing. I'm learning this lesson now as my trans cooler lines are leaking all over because of heat breakdown. I've never broke 220 pan temps, but ALLISON says 220 pan temps equals out to 300-320 cooler line temps. So now I have to redo them AGAIN with high temp AN hose to correct it from happening again. Personally I would buy a kit with a new cooler and all and be done with it. The kits out there don't cost much more than a new cooler costs from GM, and if you've had an engine failure it is always wise to replace the cooler.
 
L98TPI said:
Ok I understand not tossing them. Its not like I begrudge you 10 wing wangs, that's a deal, its the time. So what is the shipping to 24550? Got a HO cooler? :)

Another issue is how to pay you. I do paypal but this is my buddys project. I suspect we can work something out though.
Thanks.
Click to expand...


I will check on the shipping. USPS is the cheapest. Last time I checked it was $12 to Michigan I'll send you a PM to request your full address. You can mail me a check. Just want rid of these things.

No, I do not have an HO cooler.
 
Good point about the heat rating.

I had a real fun time cleaning out the bearing material from an in radiator cooler from an engine failure a few years back. I finally got it clean after a lot of solvent blown through with air. Looked like a whale blowing :hihi:


THEFERMANATOR said:
A word of caution on AN hose, yes they are rated for high pressure but don't forget the temp rating. Most are only rated to 250 degrees which may sound like more than enough, but in most cases the oil going to he cooler will be a good 30-50 degrees hotter than sump temp, and sump temps will routinely get up to 200-220 if towing. I'm learning this lesson now as my trans cooler lines are leaking all over because of heat breakdown. I've never broke 220 pan temps, but ALLISON says 220 pan temps equals out to 300-320 cooler line temps. So now I have to redo them AGAIN with high temp AN hose to correct it from happening again. Personally I would buy a kit with a new cooler and all and be done with it. The kits out there don't cost much more than a new cooler costs from GM, and if you've had an engine failure it is always wise to replace the cooler.
Click to expand...
 
It isnt worth risking your substantial investment in a new/reman motor to save a couple of hundred bucks. It is my luck when trying to save a nickel, I trip over a 20.00 bill :mad2:
 
X2 on oil temps. Been running an oil cooler on a 2008 Duramax. The oil gets hotter than 300 degrees! Least by the number of lines I burned up. This is one reason GM lines get hard and leak - not rated for high enough temps. GM had enough trouble with them so they eliminated the lines and built the cooler/heat exchanger on the engine.
 
Thanks to all. I hope this thread sorts this issue out for others who will run into this in the future.
BigT has me covered with the lines. (Thanks!) Ordered a cooler from Rock Auto.
This is engine #3 for this truck. #2 Threw a rod. #1 (before me time) likely had nothing wrong with the long block, misdiagnosed. So one consideration is the cooler is likely contaminated with bearing material.

Part#'s for the late 97 and up lines and cooler for 1/2" ported blocks (w/ piston cooler squirts)
ACDELCO Part # 15158525 COOLER,ENG OIL $87.79

DORMAN Part # 625147 {#15104800, 15158542} Includes Seals and Gaskets Needed for Installation Inlet (Driver Side); Conn Nut 27mm Across Flats $36.79

DORMAN Part # 625148 {#15104803, 15158540} Includes Seals and Gaskets Needed for Installation Outlet (Passenger Side); Conn Nut 27mm Across Flats $36.79

To recap and tease out some details:
>The early cooler (as Leroy points out in the video) has connections that are hex shaped all the way to the bottom of the cooler plate, the HO cooler has larger I/O fittings that are hex only on the end then tapering into the cooler.
>The lines for the early cooler have 20mm nuts on the cooler end and are 12 mm OD push lock on the engine end.
>The lines for the late cooler have }TBD{ nuts on the cooler end, and are 15 mm OD push lock on the engine end.
>Some early lines take different routes so are shaped different but all begin and end at the same places.
>Both coolers have GM/Rochester style fittings, for lines that have a captive nut, like a flare fitting, but have o ring seals instead. Leroy has special adapters for both coolers that transition to standard AN/JIC dash 10 fittings. From there you can go any where.
>The early blocks (early 97 back) have 3/8 NPT and the late 97 up blocks have 1/2" NPT, connections for the oil cooler above the oil filter.
>The part numbers for the snap lock connectors are Dorman 800-705 for 1/2" NPT to 15 mm and 800-704 for the 3/8 NPT to 12 mm, long version and AC Delco # 15718023 for the short. My 96 has the short version, older trucks have the long ones. The lines part #'s are different that go with the different lengths , I don't have enough info to tease out which the line part # are what and which years/options have which length 3/8" snap coupler.

Bottom line is, look at what you have, assume nothing, it could have been changed, even if the truck is not in or near the 97 year.

As for my truck, I think I am going with AN lines for the engine and transmission so I can be flexible in their mounting positions, types of coolers and such. :cool: More on that later. :D
 
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