oil cooler problem

[bison]

You could be on to something altough the feed for the center turbo most likely originates from the camshaft and the bigger hole is prob the turbo drain( i aint familiar with the center mount turbo).
The second oil hole may lead to the OPS bore having gone trough the turbo.
You still got the plug back of the valley you can use for the OPS/Gauge me thinks.It used to be the OPS spot on the pre 96 blocks

I just looked at the pic,there is only two holes,so what i said dont apply.
The turbo drain me thinks wont be pressured,just free flow down the pan.

The oil to the crank comes via the cam shaft gallery.
I hope you put the Cam brgs in correct and did'nt block oil passages ?

 

[reddog]

The shop installed the cam bearings and I didn't check their alignment but Bobbie posted this on his thread

Actually its the other way around for us. The main engines we rebuild are British 4 cylinder A series engines (Minis) and we have the tool to remove and replace the cam bearings. But on the 6.5, I let the machine shop do them.

The first set was as much my fault, I didn't realize the front bearing did not have a notch, but the oil holes still didn't line up with how the factory manual said to place them. Then add in the military manual on rebuilding 6.2/6.5 shows a different location for the oil holes, so there is some confusion there. The block has a groove behind the bearings, so the cam can get oil no matter how the oil holes are aligned. Both the factory & military manuals list a location for the oil holes and the seam in the bearing. However, the seams and oil holes in the Mahle Clevite bearings do not exactly correspond to where the manuals say they should be. So its virtually impossible to install them exactly as either of the manuals say. That is, if you put the seam where it should be, the oil holes are wrong and vice versa. So we kind of split the difference and went with that. The guy at the machine shop said small block Chevys are very similar and mine are installed basically as he does all of the small blocks, so I think I will be OK. I'm thinking on a slow turning Diesel, its probably not all that critical.

 

[bison]

I had a look at the new block i got in my shop,the soft plug in the bore below the rear main cap(i never knew there was one) is seated with the upper edge about a 1/4" below the step edge in that bore on mine.
If you got oil at the crank,then you got oil at the camshaft as well cause the crank gets oil last.
If your block is new?,i wonder if they forgot to drill a couple of oil passages all the way trough??

Other than that you got me stumped

 

[packratt]

Install a manual oil pressure gauge instead of the electronic one. That way you can tell if you have a bad OPS.

 

[reddog]

I think I got it figured out thanks to Bill Heath.This is a new block and I don't have the old one so when I assembled it I didn't have any of the plugs,They are still in the old block 100 miles away,so Ihad to buy them. So the rear oil gally plugs are 3/8 pipe and when I tried 3/8 plugs on the front they fit loosely so like an retard (is that politically correct) I gooped them up with silicone and put them in. Well these are special plugs with special threads. There is an oil passage in the left plug hole that my plug was blocking and it's this oil passage that feeds ops. Correct plugs are ordered from dealer, should be here Saturday. Thank you Bill Heath and thanks to all of you.

 

[bison]

be glad you goofed up with these plugs,that silicone would not have held over time.

 

[reddog]

Yea I'm glad ,it didn't take much effort to get them out. But with the front cover off and the plugs out I tried to prime it again with a 11/2" plastic pipe in the pump drive hole to seal the oil passage and I still can't get oil to the top.It's frustrating but education is never free.

 

[bison]

The OPS port originates from either the cam shaft or lifter oil gallery,poke a wire through it,see how deep it goes,did you try the plug on the bell housing back of the valley for pressure?