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Oil cooler lines: recomendations

GM Guy

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
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Location
NW Kansas and SC Idaho
The cooler lines are going on the 92.

1) how can we strech out the life for a bit? Im thinking baby it when oil is cold will surely help. what else?

2) what is available for just line repair/replacement?

What is available for cooler and line replacement?

3) what do the gurus recommend?

factors to include are price (most important), if it supports vendors here, how much modding it takes ( i like bolt in/on), etc.

Any input appreciated, thanks!
 
I bit the bullet and bought the Lube Specialist kit. It ain't cheap, but it includes everything you need, and eliminates the quick-disconnects at the block end. There is another vendor on the site producing a set of replacement lines as well, pmdcable.com.
 
Yeah, either one is good... but for cheap, use a file or dremel and cut the aluminum crimps off the ends and put double-hose clamps on them. That will stop the leaking for the moment, but won't solve the problem. It might get you down the road enough to save up for a replacement cooler kit.

Don't try to just change the lines... do it all, do it right.
 
JiFaire said:
Yeah, either one is good... but for cheap, use a file or dremel and cut the aluminum crimps off the ends and put double-hose clamps on them. That will stop the leaking for the moment, but won't solve the problem. It might get you down the road enough to save up for a replacement cooler kit.

Don't try to just change the lines... do it all, do it right.
Click to expand...

My lines have been leaking there for years now. As long as its not leaking at the block, the threat of them blowing apart is as normal as the day it rolled off the factory I think.

I should try this Jifaire, it might be a few months before my oil cooler time.

Be honest Jifaire, are you still running your lines with this fix? If so, how long has it lasted? I'm dry as can be at the block, just have the leaky crimp blowing oil on everything under my truck BUT the oil line/block connection. I can see my clips in there, and they look healthy. I dare not touch it.
 
So to do this, Jifaire, I could take a hacksaw blade (without the hacksaw) and carefully cut the crimp at the top where it bends over, take that off, then double hose clamp? Pretty much isn't any chance of failure unless you cut through the hose instead of just take the outer aluminum off? Maybe I'll try this this weekend. I'm so tired of leaky undercarriage.
 
Matt, you need to talk to Tim (Turbine Doc) about this one... I have never done the mod, but have seen it after it was done and it worked fine. I'm pretty sure Tim did it. My recollections of it were from guys who talked about how simple it was... mine are OK, but if I did this mod, I almost think I would run a safety wire from the front of the aluminum crimp into the clamps, just to be safe.

And I'm with you about leaving the little clips alone... I have nightmares about one popping off and leaving me with an empty engine.

PS - And I DO know that changing lines is just a temporary fix... you need adapters to make the fittings work on the cooler end if you use aftermarket lines, and the GM ones are the same crap the truck came with - you know how good THEY are!

PSS - on the other hand, leaving the lines alone helps with the rusting and squeaking :D
 
Dremel tool on slow/medium CAREFULLY cut the crimp, add in clamp, but this fixes weepage at crimps only, it DOES NOT corrct the bad design of push clips/fittings/o-rings into side of the block which at minimum drip, or at worst completely fail and you lose ALL oil and engine generally as soon as that happens.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Dremel tool on slow/medium CAREFULLY cut the crimp, add in clamp, but this fixes weepage at crimps only, it DOES NOT corrct the bad design of push clips/fittings/o-rings into side of the block which at minimum drip, or at worst completely fail and you lose ALL oil and engine generally as soon as that happens.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna try it, thanks for that picture of the wire too btw.

I'll double clamp it. Just can't afford the lines right now, but I will do them very very soon. After exhaust, and fuel system is taken care of.

Getting really old leaving spots in customers driveways... Gotta narrow this leaky pig down a bit.
 
GM Guy said:
The cooler lines are going on the 92.

1) how can we strech out the life for a bit? Im thinking baby it when oil is cold will surely help. what else?

2) what is available for just line repair/replacement?

What is available for cooler and line replacement?

3) what do the gurus recommend?

factors to include are price (most important), if it supports vendors here, how much modding it takes ( i like bolt in/on), etc.

Any input appreciated, thanks!
Click to expand...


I do sell a kit. It is a direct bolt in replacement cooler (uses your stock brackets) Comes with stainless steel, teflon lined hoses and all the fittings. I even wrap the hoses in a plastic spiral layer to protect against the stainless braid wearing on other parts . $199 + shipping.
Leroy

Picture shows one hose covered and the other not.
stainless oil lines 002.jpg
 
I just took mine off.

I have no oil cooler on mine any more.

Engine still stays cool, under 180 F all the time. Oil does not break down.

The key is to run synthetic oil. Mobile 1 all the way.
 
Getting geared up and going under as we speak. Gonna try to stop the weapage. As far as removing the lines.... These engines already have a weakness for cooling. Also removing lowers oil quantity... baby steps, but everything helps when it comes to fighting a weakness.

TDP, what did your oil pressure do when you blocked the ports? Or looped the ports?
 
I received my engine from Peninsular and called about the oiling of the motor. I was told that the plugs did not have to be removed and it would run as it sat.

The plugs were installed in the block and I was told that I did not need to hook up an oil cooler, so I just never did it.

I have towed a lot with the truck. No issues at all. The oil pressure is great.

I see 40 psi all the time, no drop in pressure, no spikes.

I would like to know how much that little oil cooler actually removes as far as temperature difference is.
 
Chicago TDP said:
I received my engine from Peninsular and called about the oiling of the motor. I was told that the plugs did not have to be removed and it would run as it sat.

The plugs were installed in the block and I was told that I did not need to hook up an oil cooler, so I just never did it.

I have towed a lot with the truck. No issues at all. The oil pressure is great.

I see 40 psi all the time, no drop in pressure, no spikes.

I would like to know how much that little oil cooler actually removes as far as temperature difference is.
Click to expand...


If they still warranty the engine without the cooler, they must not be worried about it either.
 
Chicago TDP said:
I just took mine off.

I have no oil cooler on mine any more.

Engine still stays cool, under 180 F all the time. Oil does not break down.

The key is to run synthetic oil. Mobile 1 all the way.
Click to expand...

Water temp is not and indication of oil temp. When I had my 6.5 I had and oil temp sensor in the pan. When pulling hard it would jump to 275* right away.Empty would be close to water temp or a bit lower. Synthetic or not I would not run one without a cooler while towing. As for Peninsular the now how to build a motor that is for sure. But you can bet they are running a cooler in the boats. Also I know they advocate a cooler because they buy them from me all the time.


Greg
 
So there are two places related to the cooler that oil can leak

1) at the block, at the quick connect fittings (are these similar to the coolant quick connect?)-fixable with complete kit

2) at the metal to rubber connection on the line itself-fixable by clamp replacement using 2 hose clamps/hose

Is all the above true?
 
OK, l looked at both kits, and like both. no drilling!:thumbsup: Direct Fit!:thumbsup:

Now the question is, where are all the components made?

And, how do the coolers in each kit compare sizewize to the OEM cooler?
 
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