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Oil Cooler Line Repair

jamierayo

jamierayo

Enter Witty Title Here:_____
Messages
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Location
North Pole, Alaska
One of my oil cooler lines just started leaking. It's leaking on the aluminum part, where it bends to clear the differential housing. I lost about 2 quarts just getting it the 10 miles back home.
The lines are practically new. The previous owner paid the dealer to replace them in December. They didn't put the clip on to hold them in place, so they've been rubbing together & rubbing the block & everything else down there.
I looked up some old threads over at the Place, but I'm still not sure about repairing it.
Is it possible to disassemble the line, so that I could slip a piece of rubber hose over the leak & put some hose clamps on it? I read some stuff that sounded like there's a way, but it wasn't real clear.
I just need to patch it up long enough for Burning Oil to start selling replacement lines.
 
bk95td said:
I have these: $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Problem solved.
Click to expand...

I corrected your spelling.

):h Sorry, I couldn't resist.
I know it has a solid reputation, and I'm sure that's a good kit, but I'd like to save some dough & just replace the lines. The stock cooler is sufficient for my needs
Even if I ordered that kit, or some new lines, I need a temporary fix while I wait on the Post Office.
 
jamierayo said:
I corrected your spelling.

):h Sorry, I couldn't resist.
I know it has a solid reputation, and I'm sure that's a good kit, but I'd like to save some dough & just replace the lines. The stock cooler is sufficient for my needs
Even if I ordered that kit, or some new lines, I need a temporary fix while I wait on the Post Office.
Click to expand...

The Lube Specialist kit is worth every swinging penny! As you have discovered, the factory lines are a disgrace and a disaster in waiting. Those quick-disconnects at the block should be illegal! Shame on GM for using those stupid things.

Get the Lube Specialist kit and some 5/8" heater hose. You can split the hose and put it around the stainless line to prevent it abrading everything it touches.

Of course, if you have plenty of time, you could get hoses made up to replace the quick-disconnects (note I did not say quick-connects) at the block and run up to your existing cooler, assuming the fittings will come out of it without breaking. When you're done, you'll have spent double or triple the time and spent nearly the same money. ...unless you just hack something together using the stock lines. The most important thing is to get rid of those fittings at the block.

I'll say it again; the Lube Specialist kit is worth every swinging penny! It comes with a stock-sized cooler with normal fittings on it. It bolts exactly into the original factory cooler holes. You aren't upgrading the cooler; you're upgrading the disgraceful factory lines.

You could certainly try some large-diameter power steering or transmission hose if you can find it. I would use no less than 3 good hose clamps on each end and use some of that Permatex sealer where you put the hoses on. It's the purpleish-brown stuff that comes in the can with a brush. I've been using it since the 70's. Makes the hoses slip right on and helps seal them once they're on. Some folks have used slip-on fittings to the factory lines (the ones with the little crush sleeves in them). If you're in dire need of your truck, you could get a hose made at a hydraulic shop that has one of those slip-on fittings at each end. I would really worry about the hose clamp solution. You could also try splitting said piece of power steering hose and putting it over the hole, still using minimum of 3 hose clamps (including some clamps right over the hole). If you can get it clean, and use that Permatex gasket sealer, this would be a viable short-term solution. This way, if the hose clamps let go, you still only have the same hole you started with. I'd probably use a dozen clamps so they're almost touching each other the whole length of the split hose. Don't line up all the screws either; offset them from each other.

This is only a temporary fix while you wait for the post office. I personally wouldn't run it, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. My truck is a spare vehicle, so I have that luxury.
 
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I would have liked to buy the (not yet available) lines from Burning Oil, but my truck can't be driven as-is, and I need it fixed ASAP. I went to a local shop today (Alaska Rubber & Rigging), and they said if I take them the old lines, they will make new, all rubber lines with new fittings for $40, and have them done in 1 hour. I can't complain about that. They said they make replacement tranny cooler lines all the time.
 
They were just replaced in December? Doesn't GM have a 12 month warranty on that? Or, is it one of those "to the original owner things"? Either way, I'd try that. Do you know the previous owner well enough that he could drop the truck off for you?
 
I considered that, but I don't even want to drive it the 10 miles to the dealer in its present condition. I suppose I could unhook the lines & plug them for the trip. IMO, the blowout is 100% the fault of the dealer, but in the end, I'd just have more junk stock lines, (poorly) installed by them. It's also very unlikely they have the lines in stock, so it'd be a week or more down time.
 
Doubt anybody is gonna warranty a part like an oil line, but anyway...


I wouldn't use a rubber hose, running past where it does. That's why I used the temp rated teflon lined braided stainless. Or you could use the rubber, then do it again down the road.
 
jamierayo said:
I considered that, but I don't even want to drive it the 10 miles to the dealer in its present condition. I suppose I could unhook the lines & plug them for the trip. IMO, the blowout is 100% the fault of the dealer, but in the end, I'd just have more junk stock lines, (poorly) installed by them. It's also very unlikely they have the lines in stock, so it'd be a week or more down time.
Click to expand...

I'm not so sure you can plug the lines. When the machine shop tried to prime my engine with those fittings plugged, they couldn't get the oil to circulate. I don't know if something is hooked up wrong in my block or if you need to U the two fittings together.
 
Take the lines off and bring them to a shop who makes hydrolic lines. They can make a set cheap enough and will outlast the stock junk.
 
ak diesel driver said:
If you have to take them off to do a repair I would try soldering them.
Click to expand...


Won't work they are crimped to make the seal.

Easy/cheap way for temporary fix it to CAREFULLY cut off the aluminum crimped portion, with hacksaw or dremel tool, under the crimp is the rubber line you don't want to cut into that, once the crimp is removed, a worm screw clamp can be used to clamp the rubber line so it does not leak, then put behind the 1st clamp a 2nd one, wire tie with good wire, (aircraft safety wire if you have .032") wire 1 clamp to the other so if one tries to "walk" the other clamp will hold it secure & vice versa. Not my tricks but it works, one of guys on Diesel Page came up with that idea.

Best fix are new lines, if in a hurry get Greg's set, if you can wait Heath www.heathdiesel.com soon to have a set on the market.
 
ak diesel driver said:
If you have to take them off to do a repair I would try soldering them.
Click to expand...

My bad I was thinking about crimp repair area not middle of the line.

Cleaned up with acetone so it will stick, JB weld should be able to fix this, depending on size of the hole in the line, rubber patch, over the hole, then worm screw clamp over the rubber to hold rubber clamped tight over the hole may work as well, we aren't talking mega high pressure
 
Turbine Doc said:
Not best plan IMO, the 6.5 is pretty heat rejection challenged, the oil cooler is a necessity IMO
Click to expand...

I had mine plugged off while I was trying to get hoses that would fit the cooler and in cold weather my truck would only hold 20 lbs of oil pressure because of the thin oil. After getting it fixed and even in warmer weather it holds almost 40 lbs idling, that's proof enough for me that the oil cooler is needed.
 
I am the best non-customer endorsement that Lube Specialist has, I didn't buy their kit and did mine on my own with hydraulic hoses. After that excercise I wouldn't recommend doing anything but ordering the Lube Specialist kit. I too was told that the lines would be about $40 to $50, but they turned out to be $90. Then the alluminum lines busted off at the cooler after connecting to them with compression fittings, Napa remade the hoses for free. Then the hydraulic hose connectors at the block were too big for the 4X4 oil filter adapter to fit back in place, so I had to invest $127 in a remote oil filter mount setup. For the amount of money spent, aggravation, running around, and down time The Lube Specialist kit would have been a lot cheaper.
 
I split a piece of 1/2" fuel line and put it over the hole, with 4 worm drive clamps holding it tight. The truck's idling in the driveway right now, & the patch is holding. I'm expecting some seepage, but I think it will hold a couple days, and that's all I need.
I'm going to drive it around a couple days & dry the undercarriage out before I pull it in my brothers' shop to swap out the lines. (It won't fit in my garage.) It's nice to know that this will fix it in a pinch. You never know when you'll be on the side of the road (or no road) needing a quick fix.

When I pull the lines, do I need to drain all the oil, or can I leave what's in the pan?
 
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