oil cooler flush

[packratt]

New engine came with instructions to flush the cooler and oil lines otherwise warranty was void. Air was not sufficient.

Any suggestions? Take over to parts washer and hose out with Varsol?

 

[ak diesel driver]

fill it with seafoam and let it sit for awhile.

 

[Ratman]

When I did my new engine build, I flushed mine in the solvent tank, then followed up with brake cleaner and low-pressure compressed air.

I opted to replace my lines, -no sense risking a new engine to crappy oil cooler lines. I went with aeroquip hose and ends on mine.

The lube specialties ones are nice, no doubt, but you can do the same thing on your own for less money if ya know what you need.

Make sure that cooler is clean, -it surely can't hurt on a new motor.

And don't forget to prime the oiling system prior to lighting the thing off. Even if ya just spin the thing over with the glows removed (that also helps prime the fuel system anyway).

The factory coolers are very nice pieces (at least that's what the guy at the aeroquip dealer told me).

Hope this helps,

Git 'er done. :thumbsup:

 

[DennisG01]

When I did my new engine build, I flushed mine in the solvent tank, then followed up with brake cleaner and low-pressure compressed air.

Ditto.

 

[packratt]

The lines and cooler are Lube Specialist's.

 

[LanduytG]

Depending on why the old motor died would depend on if I flushed the old one or bought a new one. Plate heat exchangers are very difficult to clean properly. If the old motr had a major failure I would opt fpr a new cooler.

Greg

 

[packratt]

I'd classify a major failure as broken crank or rod through side of block. I had more cracks than your local crack house in the block. http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showpost.php?p=103511&postcount=29

 

[DennisG01]

Ooops. I cleaned out my radiator as mentioned above. I replaced my oil cooler with the Lube Specialist kit. Sorry for the inaccurate post.