NV-241 Leaking Output Shaft Seal

[Paveltolz]

Noticed a puddle about 2 x3 inches under the truck, back behind the engine and transmission. Thought it was hydrolic fluid from the leaking stump grinder the tree removal guys were using (it made a mess) and that’s where I’d parked the truck. Still…. Cleaned it all up and no more spotting when I parked the truck after a run to the store. That was Saturday.
Washed the truck yesterday and parked it. Came out and, fresh oil down!
This is what I see. The older spot is from something else I don’t want to talk about right now.





New Output shaft seal ‘deep’ ordered from GM Parts Store off the jungle site.


We’ll see what gets done first, my sons VW brakes, my front brakes or this seal (#20).


Brakes, rear output shaft, etc. Never rains but it pours or, today, snows.

 

[MrMarty51]

I always fill the spring side of the seal with grease to keep the spring from bouncing out when pounding the seal into the bore.
ALSO: thoroughly coat the shell area of the seal that fits in the bore with No.2 Permatex and coat the bore with No2 Permatex too.
Thats the black gooey looking permatex that comes in a bottle with a brush cap.

 

[Paveltolz]

Finally decided to get the Output shaft seal replaced. No real issues and pretty straight forward.
I viewed this guys YouTube vid to get familiarized with what the procedure should look like.

The only hick up was the old seal was different than what I saw in the videos and the one I ordered.

Just missing the rubber dust cover portion. That and the old seal didn't come out near as easily as described in the video. I ended up using vice grips to grab a lip of the old seal after tapping the edge away from the housing with a screwdriver and rubber mallet. Grabbed a lip, pried it out using the vice grips like a claw hammer and got a face full of transmission fluid as the seal suddenly dislodged from the tail shaft housing. Joy.

Cleaned the surfaces with Acetone and used a tin can to get the seal started and tapped in until pretty much seated. Large punch was used to do the final seating.


I did check the drive shaft yoke to see if it was leaking as it was fairly wet and gacked up but, no, not leaking. Sealed it up with RTV anyway.

Greased the drive shaft yoke innards and reassembled.


2 hours for what I figured should be a 30 min. job. Of course, there was a couple of 'while I'm in/under here' tasks....

Ready to go to the drag races in Vegas. To harass Ted (635) who hates me harassing him I got my daughter to do a little art work for the races. Ted will want to throw up.

AB = Antron Brown, BF = Britt Force, and FJB = Fast Jack Beckman, not...uh... "Let's Go Brandon." That ship sailed.

 

[MrMarty51]

I have had several of the seal tension springs bounce out of position and dangle around the shaft afore I learned about packing the spring side with grease before attempting to drive the seal into position.

 

[Big T]

I no

 

[Big T]

What’s the update on this leak? Usually the input seal leaks, allowing the transfer case to over fill with ATF. Your getting splashed with ATF after removing the output seal could be a sign of leaking input seal. I know this guy who pulls and rebuilds transfer cases in less than a day.

 

[Paveltolz]

Don’t know what status is as I finished the seal, got tackled by grandkids, packed the Atlas and left town without doing a test drive. I’ll let ya’ll know and I’ll pray the poor transfer case repair guy doesn’t get a surprise visit. Really appreciate the reminder though.