Not a tractor but...

[wirewrangler]

Hi Everybody!

I picked up a scissor lift over the weekend. Had / has some wiring issues. I sorted through it and found that a terminal got ripped off of the back of the ignition switch. I soldered a piece of wire to it and connected it up. I got it to crank over after I replaced a bad relay - had to sort through that wiring too as it wasn't connected. The thing won't start. It's propane (Linamar / ONAN DL20), not sure if I'm getting fuel, but I know the solenoid is getting power - at least where I can get a test light on it; it's wired to the + on the coil. I pulled the plugs and I'm getting spark but it does look a little weak. They had the condenser wired to the + on the coil; didn't think that was right so I wired it to the negative on the coil. I'm suspecting that there's a terminal ripped off of the rectifier as there are two wires terminated to it heading down to the stator area and another wire that hot with the key on just hanging there where it looks like it will reach. I don't think that would keep it from starting but I'm not 100% on that - anyone know?

Also, anyone know what happens if I hit it with a little ether and there's propane present?

 

[btfarm]

I suspect a bad fuel pump. Are the plugs staying dry? I'm assuming it has the same setup for fuel as the Onan/Linimar motors I've had in my JD318s

 

[wirewrangler]

They're dry but that has more to do with it being a propane rig, no gasoline or diesel involved.

 

[dbrannon79]

I know nothing about propane powered engines other than when there is a leak they go boom! lol I assume you are able to hear and smell the propane when attempting to start? I'm wondering if there is a regulator issue or possible low compression since they are a completely dry cylinder with no liquid fuel in there.

I wouldn't think ether would hurt anything. just use it very sparingly and if you try it, shut off the propane just so you know it will bust off with ether only. with propane the fuel to air mixture has to be perfect for fire conditions. more precise than with gas or diesel.

 

[btfarm]

They're dry but that has more to do with it being a propane rig, no gasoline or diesel involved.

Sorry, I didn't pay attention to the propane part.

 

[MrMarty51]

Propane power is clean. There is no lubricating factor with gasoline in a cylinder. Only the ability to warsh off any oil that will get splashed onto the cylinder walls.
I wonder if there is an enrichener mode with the propane carb to help get the engine to start.
I used to have to pull a lever on an old Adams road grader, pulled it to fire up on gasoline, turned the petcock on the gas tank open, pulled the cranky handle through, not fast, just pulled it through compression on one cylinder and that old beast would pop and be running. Warm it up for a few minutes then close the petcock, climb back into the cab, push the lever the other direction and it then would switch to diesel.
I was young back then but I understood how such as that functioned. The DOT told me they were going to bring me a newer Gallion and I balked. That old Adams and I got along just fine.

 

[Will L.]

Just like an ol carburetor- choke to get a more rich mixture

Yes you can use starting fluid, best to have someone crank it, choke OFF and you spray short bursts into it with air filter removed for most engines, unless you have a port to spray into

 

[MrMarty51]

Just like an ol carburetor- choke to get a more rich mixture

Yes you can use starting fluid, best to have someone crank it, choke OFF and you spray short bursts into it with air filter removed for most engines, unless you have a port to spray into

Yup, thats how its done.
Probably wont be done again now until it is all together, or taken apart and modified to eliminate a bunch of that smog stuff.

 

[wirewrangler]

I got it running. Fuel solenoid was air locked or something. I pulled the hose off of the carb and it unstuck itself. I hit it with some ether and it fired up while starting but would die when I put the key back to the "ON" position. I took a wire with an alligator clip on it and hot wired the coil and it stayed running. I think I've got a bad ballast resistor somewhere I need to find - ran out of time. Found the momentary toggle switch on the lower control was stuck in reverse so I pulled the wire off of the switch. Had to dump a bunch of hydraulic oil in the tank as it was dry and found some loose hoses. Made good headway.

btfarm - do you know if your JD had a ballast resistor feeding the coil? If so, do you remember where it was?

Thanks,

Wes

 

[btfarm]

btfarm - do you know if your JD had a ballast resistor feeding the coil? If so, do you remember where it was?

Thanks,

Wes

I'll take a look at the schematic this morning and see if I can post up a shot of it.

 

[btfarm]

External ground: (older)


Internal ground: (likely)



The internal ground rectifier is on the RH side engine cover.

Older one shown. I sold the other one recently.

 

[wirewrangler]

Interesting. The newer schematic shows the condenser on the positive of the coil - I'm pretty sure that's what I'm dealing with so I'll move it back and see if that does it.

Thanks alot!