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No start then it started???

Well, the IP's fuel solenoid is electric, so if both PCM and PMD are powered off with ignition no way it can inject fuel. Even when people have had run away IPs/PMDs have you heard them say it shut itself off? I think its useless.
 
buddy said:
I would remove the Fuel/engine shut off solenoid and take the plunger out and reinstall it so that you know it cannot cut off fuel. Its not necessary. It spins off easy enough and the plunger slides right out after removing a snap ring. If you never have that problem again that was it. If that wasnt it you can put the plunger back in. It may cause a DTC13, but wont slow you down at all.
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I wondered if the fuel shut off is really necessary? Seems a real fuel shut off should be closer to the tank. What would cause it to throw a code with the plunger out? Wouldn't it think it is still working or does it close at engine shut off? The way it wouldn't start made me think it was "stuck closed" then opened again.
 
Dieseldad97 said:
I'd buy/try another PMD extension harness. Where's yours from?
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Great suggestion! The burban did it again, I plugged the pmd in without the extension and it fired rite up......bad thing now is I had to mount it on the cooler on the intake till I can see what kind of warranty the extension has on it, just got it in June of this year. THANKS!!!!!
 
Well thanks to all of the advice in this thread, I also go my truck running again. Turns out it was the fuel shut off solenoid that was bad/stuck. I took the plunger out, and it started and ran fine. I had figured it was either that or the PMD.
Now all that is left to do is change the glow plugs.
 
TheDjost said:
Well thanks to all of the advice in this thread, I also go my truck running again. Turns out it was the fuel shut off solenoid that was bad/stuck. I took the plunger out, and it started and ran fine. I had figured it was either that or the PMD.
Now all that is left to do is change the glow plugs.
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Keep me updated on that to see if it throws a code I don't think it will as long as it is plugged in. I think you would be able to remove the plunger and it not make any difference?
 
Sure, No problem. I don't think it will cause problems either. That's why I tried it. If it throws a code, I have a scan tool to take care of it.
 
Bigburban said:
Great suggestion! The burban did it again, I plugged the pmd in without the extension and it fired rite up......bad thing now is I had to mount it on the cooler on the intake till I can see what kind of warranty the extension has on it, just got it in June of this year. THANKS!!!!!
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We're all here to help!! I'm sure Leroy will do you good.
 
But for dang sure let us know if he doesn't.

I have no doubts the he will do you good. I just hate hearing reports of bad cables. Even if the seller stands behind it, it leaves me ansy about buying from them again.
You have to think about where the nextone might go bad. On a set of railroad tracks. In the middle of a 2 way interesection with a semi bearing down on you.
Scary shit to pay good money for a bad part. It's not the first of Leroy's extensions I've heard to be bad. Have to step up quality control some there.
I'll have to figure out where to order the pieces and parts from to make my own so I know they're good or I only have one person to blame if they are not.

I'd like to know exactly what was wrong with the extensions that were not good.

Was it because all of the connections weren't soldered?

Would soldering the wires have prevented the extensions from going bad?
 
Yea I checked and the one I bought I got from his brother so he gave me a number to get in touch with him. I always hope people will make good, cause I worry about the same thing when is it going to happen next? I just hope I can get a new one quick before I fry my $250.00 new pmd! If I had to guess I would say the connections seems the only thing that could be wrong, rest of it is just wires.
 
Bigburban said:
Keep me updated on that to see if it throws a code I don't think it will as long as it is plugged in. I think you would be able to remove the plunger and it not make any difference?
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It may throw a code, but the code wont hurt you at all, wont even leave the SES light on. I ran that way for about a year.
 
On cables I always crimp the pins/sockets and then solder them too. to prevent the possibilty of it pulling out. Weatherproof seals failing could be an issue or a lot of vibration causing that loom to slice into the insulation could cause issues, especially if it bent in a way where wires poke through the loom edge. You could do an autopsy on it. I would pull the loom off and do a continuity/resistance check across all wires and then an insulation resistance check (which is not a common practice, but I have the Megaohm meters to do it). If it passes those tests its good.

PMDs can be finicky. Cable might not be bad, but maybe a bent pin? Or the act of unplugging it shook some wires to the IP. there are a lot of electrical checks that could be done to dive into such a problem and drive you crazy. With an old engine electrical harness could be a rubbing wire anywhere.
 
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