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No Start Issue - Heat Soak Issue?

Bernie

Amateur Radio Operator - KJ4VOV
Messages
303
Reaction score
13
Location
Fredericksburg, VA
For the past few weeks I've started having difficulty starting my '99 GMC C3500 with the HO 6.5TD. There's a couple of issues involved so let me list those and then we can get on to the speculation.

First, about 6 weeks ago I managed to cook my 140amp alternator. The truck is a radio communications truck with full warning lights and I was assigned to follow the last runner for the USMC Historic Half Marathon. The last runner was walking, which meant 5+ hours of cruising along behind at 3 MPH. Even in low that wasn't fast enough to keep the revs up and keep the alternator output up and the load literally cooked it. I could smell it burning inside the cab when it finally died, but still was able to limp the truck home on just battery power after the race was over.

Swapped out the alternator for a new one that same day and I was good to go, or so I thought.

Since then I've been plagued with electrical gremlins such as a lightbar controller that cooked itself, a new LED taillight that half the LEDs died in (to be fair, it seems to have developed a water leak) an LED strobe light that decided to no longer strobe, and a radio that now randomly switches itself off and back on. And every now and then the truck has trouble starting. It cranks fine, but will not start.

Now, I believe the issue with the no start is heat related, because I've noticed that when it happens it's always when I've tried to start the truck after it'd been running for awhile then shut off and left sit for about a half hour. Yeah, I can hear you all thinking... "PMD dude! Classic symptoms!" and I'll tell you, that's what I've been thinking myself but... (you knew there was a but coming...)

The original PMD died about two years ago, and was replaced with a remote mount kit from SSDiesel (yeah, on the plenum, but I simply cannot mount it anywhere outside the engine bay, no room with all the lights and speakers out there) and that worked fine for a year, until it failed (runaway) last fall. That was one of the FS PMD's that were known for failing as runaways and I got credit for it and a new gray unit replacement Since then, it's run fine with no more PMD issues. Now, because it's still mounted inside the engine bay I agree that it's subject to more heat, but my understanding is that the gray units can take it, especially when on a heatsink, so I'm willing to give it the benefit of the doubt. Now, today, just a couple of hours ago, I had to run to Costco. Since I had a trailer attached I left the truck parked at the far end of the lot, sitting in the hot sun (99 deg) while I went in, grabbed three items and came back out. Total time, about 30 minutes. Tried to start the truck and while it cranked just fine, it would not catch. At that point, just to eliminate the PMD as the culprit, I opened the hood, let the slight breeze blow through, then poured a bottle of cool (not cold) water over the heatsink and the PMD to cool it even further. The truck still would crank but not catch. Waited a little longer, poured a second bottle of water over the PMD and also over the IP and tried again. Crank but no start. Then I thought maybe my lift pump (original) had packed up, so I cracked the air bleeder on the filter and switched the ignition on for a minute. I couldn't see it spurt from that position, but judging by the amount of fuel that came out and ran over the filter housing, and the fact I could hear the pump clicking, I figured it wasn't a dead lift pump. After twenty minutes of crank a bit, rest a bit then crank some more I eventually wore down the batteries and called the wife at home to come out with her truck. When she got there half an hour later we jumped my truck, gave it time to charge the batteries a bit, then cranked it again. Still no start. I then pulled the air cleaner and had the wife crank it while I gave it a shot of WD40 into the intake, just to see if it would try to catch. Nothing. The wife then went inside to get herself a Coke and while she was gone I let the batteries charge up a bit more, then gave one fairly long crank (long enough I worried about cooking the cables or the starter) and all of a sudden it caught and ran. Little bit of black smoke that cleared right up. The truck then idled there for 15 minutes waiting for the wife to come back out, with the hood closed, in the sun, with the A/C on and the gauge reading 195, never faltered, or stumbled, just idled perfect. When she came out I drove it home and it ran fine all the way, no complaints. Now, this is the third time in the past two weeks that the truck has done this. Each time was under similar conditions, and one of those times also requiring a jump, but this time was the longest period during which it wouldn't start. Each time has been a little bit longer too, come to think of it.

Now, before you offer ideas, and I'm open to all of them, bear in mind this is a pretty new PMD, on a heatsink, and it was water cooled to no effect, so I really do not see this being a PMD problem, but I'm still open to the idea and still wracking my brain trying to figure out where I could mount it outside the engine bay that isn't already occupied by lights, horns or speakers. In back of the bumper is, literally, full. I could not fit half a pack of cigarettes back there, let alone a PMD on a heatsink.
 
When she is in a "No Start" condition do you have All your dash lights lit?.........WIF, STS, SES, WTS, ect.?

Also, I know you don't think this is "PMD" related, BUT, do you have a known good one to swap in just to rule it out 100%?

Furthermore, this all started after the 3 mph cruise and the "Burning" out of the Alt.......Do we know what wires you smelled, have you gone back to the seen of the crime to check for charred wire insulation in the harness area of wherever you saw, smelled, touched, thought maybe, etc.

What about GROUNDS??......What about Fuel shut off solenoid/and Wiring and/or plug...Getting full power to open up and let fuel through?

Any Codes in history??

Maybe fill out the Diagnostic Checklist and do a methodical check of each issue....?


Just throwin' this out there = WAG
(Wild Ass Guess)
 
When she is in a "No Start" condition do you have All your dash lights lit?.........WIF, STS, SES, WTS, ect.?

Also, I know you don't think this is "PMD" related, BUT, do you have a known good one to swap in just to rule it out 100%?

Furthermore, this all started after the 3 mph cruise and the "Burning" out of the Alt.......Do we know what wires you smelled, have you gone back to the seen of the crime to check for charred wire insulation in the harness area of wherever you saw, smelled, touched, thought maybe, etc.

What about GROUNDS??......What about Fuel shut off solenoid/and Wiring and/or plug...Getting full power to open up and let fuel through?

Any Codes in history??

Maybe fill out the Diagnostic Checklist and do a methodical check of each issue....?


Just throwin' this out there = WAG
(Wild Ass Guess)

I appreciate the WAG, really I do. :)

To address each point you brought up:
  • I confess I didn't really check the lights all too carefully, other than the WTS, but nothing caught my eye as being different from normal either. Will make it a point to check when/if the next time it happens.
  • No spare PMD here at the moment. If I did have a spare that would be one of the first things I would have tried. Funds are a little tight right now as we pay off some bills due to a death in the family.
  • What cooked on the old alternator was the stator and rotor windings. No external wiring damage at all. I checked it all very carefully when replacing the alt.
  • Grounds are known and tested good, including additional RF bonding grounds that were added with the radio equipment.
  • Fuel shutoff solenoid and plug... That's a good possibility. I did dump a bottle of water on it today as a way of cooling things down to see if that would get it to start but with no result. I may change it, simply because it's about 9 years old (complete IP was replaced about 9 years ago). I may also replace the oil pressure switch for the same reason, even though the lift pump was running.
  • No code scanner, so I don't know what might be stored, but no SES light while running. I need to get a scanner but it's the old story of I don't want the cheap one because it's junk, but can't afford the good one at the moment.
  • I know there's a checklist on here someplace, and I was meaning to fill it out, just haven't had much time to locate it for the past few hours. We were having a late dinner and I'm the cook in this house. :)
 
Follow brooklyn's advice and post what you find.

having said that,.. going slow like 3 ml an hour for 5 hrs in the hot sun ain't exactly gonna cool that PMD there up the intake.
If you got to do more trips like that i would suggest putting that PMD on the heatsink inside the dr side fender in the intake airstream like i did.
Secondly,it could well be an intermittent LP issue,only a permanent (in cab) fuel pressure gauge can tell you that,..purring don't mean it pumps.
 
Follow brooklyn's advice and post what you find.

having said that,.. going slow like 3 ml an hour for 5 hrs in the hot sun ain't exactly gonna cool that PMD there up the intake.
If you got to do more trips like that i would suggest putting that PMD on the heatsink inside the dr side fender in the intake airstream like i did.
Secondly,it could well be an intermittent LP issue,only a permanent (in cab) fuel pressure gauge can tell you that,..purring don't mean it pumps.

I wish I could put it inside that fender, but that whole inner fender is covered in cables and breakers for the radios, inverter, etc. And the intake is in the passenger fender, not the driver's side. Now putting it in the passenger fender is a possibility... I'll have to see if I have room to work in there...
 
Thanks Brooklyn. I knew it was here somewhere, and looked for it briefly earlier, but never did find it.
 
Problem: Explain your problem in concise language (ie: Cranks but won’t fire). _Yep, cranks but doesn't fire

Demographics: tell us about your truck and your ambient conditions:

- Year: 1999
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500) C3500 cab & chassis
- Automatic or Standard Auto
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) 98,990 miles
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc) PMD, heatsink mount
- Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? F turbo
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) 99*F
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) Straight diesel
- What fuel additives are you using? Howe's
- Where are you located? Virginia

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter New, 500 miles ago
- Fuel filter New, 500 miles ago
- CDR Valve? New, 500 miles ago
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at 3 years
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at 15w-40 Rotella 2,000 miles ago
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at Matched pair replaced 2/10 good charge
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): Some new (500 miles) the rest clean, tight and low impedence
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? 2,000 What type? Aw hell, can't remember right now.
- Injectors - last changed at 45,000 by dealer and PO


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? Cranking
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? Excellent
- Has this problem ever happened before? Twice
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. Engine had heat soaked for about 30 minutes
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N) N And? ________


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? Not right away - see details in previous posts
1b] Does the engine crank over? Yes
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? Yes
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? 6 weeks ago, checked 'em again today
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? about 15-20 seconds
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? Isn't that the WTS light? For how long? _________
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? No
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check? Yes

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):

2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? Yes
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? Did not try
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? Too hot - could not try
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? Too hot
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? Sometimes

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) Plenum
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? Vendor
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. Clean, tight, measured low impedence
3d] PMD Make: FS (gray)
3e] PMD Age: 6 months?

4] Stalling Issues
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot? Never stalls
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) ______
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? Nope
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? _________
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups? _________
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? ___________
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? _________
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? ___________

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? Never checked
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? No
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? No
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? No
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? No

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT) ? No
6b] Maximum boost under load? Stock
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? No
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? No
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)? OEM

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? Dual
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? No
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? No
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? No
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? No
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? No

List and describe any other factors which are not addressed in this checklist. We can’t see, hear, smell, or touch your truck, so the more descriptive information you can give, the more likely it is that somebody can assist you.

See first post above.
 
I should add here that this is a cab & chassis, which puts the A/C compressor above the IP, making it a royal PITA to do anything involving the IP.
 
PMD's can be cold and still not work, but without any stalling it may not be your problem.

A fuel gauge as Simon suggested would help with the diagnosis, try removing the fuel cap. The tank may be under a vacuum.
 
PMD's can be cold and still not work, but without any stalling it may not be your problem.

A fuel gauge as Simon suggested would help with the diagnosis, try removing the fuel cap. The tank may be under a vacuum.

I've noticed in the past that when refueling I'd sometimes get that hiss of vacuum when I cracked open the cap, but it's been doing that as long as I've owned the truck so I didn't see it as an issue.
 
It's just a guess, but worth a try. High temps can create vapor locks with gas vehicles, I don't know what happens with a diesel. I always back my fuel cap off after it clicks until a resistance is felt. It doesn't hiss if I do that.
 
I wish I could put it inside that fender, but that whole inner fender is covered in cables and breakers for the radios, inverter, etc. And the intake is in the passenger fender, not the driver's side. Now putting it in the passenger fender is a possibility... I'll have to see if I have room to work in there...

OOps,my mistake.:eek:
You'll have to cut a hole between the batt and intake.
There should be pic of that floating some were on the site.
 
If it has fuel at the filter bleeder you are fine with the tank hiss. Make yourself a jumper and jump the lift pump relay the next time. Then you can watch fuel come out.

The 1999 IP's are not immune to head and rotor wear. AKA Hot hard start.

I wouldn't try WD-40 or anything else to start the engine again. In fact you should OHM check some glow plugs to make sure they didn't fail from the starting aid. This test isn't doing you any good anyway.

How fast is the engine spinning over? Maybe a battery went weak on you as I explain below.

Now I am going to disregard your truck's history above and you should too. It is no longer relevant after the alternator cooked off. Let us explore what happens when an alternator melts down for a moment and how it is relevant...

As you know the name alternator means alternating current. It takes 6 diodes to convert the AC to DC. It also takes a regulator to keep the voltage under control. The regulator is also supposed to control current and some will kick out during overheat/overload conditions.

So the alternator had severe damage to the stator windings and the field coil. Then the batteries were run down (some) going home. Double whammy to the batteries.

All it takes is one diode to short out to ruin the stator from excessive current. Then the hot stator will create it's own new shorts and cook itself off as long as the rotor is spinning with a magnetic field from the field coil. The extra heat from the short and stator cooking off will overheat the regulator and burn it up or short it out. Shorted could mean full regulator output to the field coil burning it up. The extra heat does not help the diodes that can short or burn open. This process of the unit failing plays havoc with AC and DC voltages coming out of the unit.

So everything on the truck runs on DC and a wide DC voltage at that.

So when the alternator loses it's rectifier and/or regulator section bad things happen. Mainly AC voltage reaches the output and/or high voltage can also be generated. High enough voltage to make your headlights blow like flashbulbs. The AC component can damage and destroy sensitive electronic components. LED's and capacitors for example and especially polarity sensitive capacitors. AC voltage can spike negative and blow diodes and LED's from reverse breakdown current. The voltage spikes are so quick that your volt gauge may not have moved or flickered. Under a full load with two batteries going full output may not have generated high DC voltage that would burn out bulbs. The AC component is harder to filter/suppress.

Your only protection from spikes is the small capacitor in the alternator and 2 big batteries. Then it is up to the connected equipment with it's caps and filtering circuits. Your batteries do not like any AC voltage, however, they tend to clamp it some.

Given that your windings burned you could have had more amp output than the batteries could filter and have given your system more AC and voltage spikes than connected equipment could handle. It only takes one spike to do damage that can show up in weeks if not instantly.

Absolutely the current/voltage surges could have burnt wires and hurt ground connections. Don't forget the positive side of the circuit. Fuses, positive connections, distribution blocks... A filtering or clamping circuit could have passed enough current to damage it's own wiring while seeing spikes and AC during the alternator burn up.

I would check the computer for codes first. Then I would disconnect both batteries and test them separately as they don't like the bad stuff a alternator gave them while cooking off. You may have a bad battery or two cranking the engine slow. Bad from eating AC and voltage spikes.

The above is why you have a new problem and any "recently new" parts are now just as suspect as "older/original" parts.

I agree cooling with hot under hood air and going against the normal airflow is rough on alternators to start with. Maybe you need a dual alternator setup just for the cooling issue not total Amps.
 
War Wagon, thanks for the well presented and clearly thought out response. I have a bit of knowledge about this stuff myself, but it's always good to have it in black & white for anyone following along. And, I agree with you 100% regarding the damage a bad alternator can cause, which is why I went over the electrical system very carefully when replacing it. By "carefully" I mean visual inspection of cables, connections, etc., electrical (ohmed out all the major cables and connections, then checked for voltage drops) inspection of everything, then removed, cleaned and retightened all battery connections and checked 'em again. No problems discovered during that but I did change two cables for a heavier gauge.

The batteries are still a concern, and current plans are to swap them for new under warranty. They're from Costco (who actually has decent batteries made by Johnson Controls) and they don't ask any questions when it comes to warranty stuff. I had to replace the battery in the wife's truck two weeks ago when it finally died after 5 hard years of use (frequent short trips) and they didn't question it at all, just gave me 40% back. These two are still under the 36 month free replacement period, so that's what I plan to do.

As far as cranking speed, it was good for the first dozen or so attempts to start, spinning fast (starter is two years old high torque), but began to slow a bit after that. By the time I called the wife I'd made about two dozen attempts and the cranking had slowed to the point that I knew it wouldn't start.

And a dual setup is in the works. Waiting on a member here to get back to me regarding a price to fabricate the kit.
 
Okay, just because it's possible they were damaged with the alternator failure, and to eliminate them as suspects, I just replaced both batteries on the truck with brand new ones (mfg date of 5/12). Yeah, I'm nuts... it's 105* out there. It's so hot out there that afterwards, when I went to crank the truck over, the WTS lamp came on for about half the usual time. The truck cranked nice, fast and smooth as it usually does, but it still took some extended cranking before it started. Once it did though it idled perfectly, and voltage was showing at 14.3 and slowly dropping as the batteries charged.

I have some running around to do tomorrow so I'll report back with any problems.
 
Yup, and just to be on the safe side, I'm seriously considering putting my generator back on the trailer. If I get stuck again I can at least charge the batteries myself that way. :D
 
Where do you find clear fuel hose.....and whats the correct size?

Also how much do you need....about 1' or 1/2 a foot?

I can't seem to find any.
 
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