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No oil pressure at idle after rebuild, new block!

That's a setup worth it's own thread with pictures. Vans are rare on here with the 6.x engines.

Not sure what the embarrassment is all about. Only rust through would look worse than the Rat Rod Patch. Landscapers drive better looking trucks out here. "Been there, done that, Run that over..." Seriously going through "Little Mexico" with a cargo trailer is a hoot with all the kids wide eyed looking at Patch.

Paint doesn't make it go faster or improve MPG towing. :woot:

Oil temp control??? :p I frequently burn up oil cooler lines and have been known via UOA to ruin engine oil via getting it too hot. Evaporating off 1 quart every 500 miles is normal IMO on a 6.5 out here. GM adjusted their "Low Oil Pressure stop engine" alarm by adding a longer "buffer" before it went off due to our and a few other Duramax owner problems with the alarm going off. Oil temp: It's all good till you scuff a piston. I run semi Synthetic Mystik 15w-50 and should run full synthetic. On hot summer days in excess of 115 degrees it makes a difference via higher oil pressure vs. Shell Rotella 15w40. At this time this difference is keeping me from having to pull the engine due to low oil pressure. I find synthetic gets me better oil pressure in general when hot. At 2500 Mile oil changes done weekly the synthetic was out of budget esp. when having to add 5 quarts over the said 2500 miles. 3000 Mile oil changes were ugly on the UOA reports. Gapless rings changed things on the UOA.

IMO They don't release turbo specs as someone would attempt to copy it and make a "knock off" or go direct and obtain the turbo from the OEM.
 
WarWagon said:
That's a setup worth it's own thread with pictures. Vans are rare on here with the 6.x engines.
Not sure what the embarrassment is all about. Only rust through would look worse than the Rat Rod Patch.
Paint doesn't make it go faster or improve MPG towing. :woot:
Oil temp control??? :p I frequently burn up oil cooler lines and have been known via UOA to ruin engine oil via getting it too hot. Evaporating off 1 quart every 500 miles is normal IMO on a 6.5 out here. GM adjusted their "Low Oil Pressure stop engine" alarm by adding a longer "buffer" before it went off due to our and a few other Duramax owner problems with the alarm going off. Oil temp: It's all good till you scuff a piston. I run semi Synthetic Mystik 15w-50 and should run full synthetic. On hot summer days in excess of 115 degrees it makes a difference via higher oil pressure vs. Shell Rotella 15w40. At this time this difference is keeping me from having to pull the engine due to low oil pressure. I find synthetic gets me better oil pressure in general when hot. At 2500 Mile oil changes done weekly the synthetic was out of budget esp. when having to add 5 quarts over the said 2500 miles. 3000 Mile oil changes were ugly on the UOA reports. Gapless rings changed things on the UOA.
Click to expand...

Aye, I should start a thread on that. Need to think up a good click bait title. hehehe.
Are you sure paint doesnt make it go faster? gloss versus flat? :)

Dang! my engine would be shot if you drove it. lol No joke though. I have to keep those temps low which is kinda funny since "everyone" will tell you that your oil needs to get hot to burn any moisture off. Well dang if I let it get that hot my blood pressure is going up higher than my oil pressure. That amount of ridiculousness is exactly why I have another engine in the build. Just about ready to slide the cam in as that is the first thing to go in. Then have to decide whether or not to use new lifters. There seems to be some wriggle in them without oil. They should be pretty close in my opinion. Lots of space to lose oil there. Silly machine shop probably honed them.

Scuffed? well shoot!, I'd say that was more than scuffed. lol darn hole and a nice crack in that piston. Ironically I have one very similar to that. After market crap defective piston. Learned a good expensive lesson with that one. Wasn't an oil problem though. Drove it 7 miles home after the fact. Rod looks like an S.
I tried synthetic oil once or twice. Didn't really notice a big difference but again I have to compare pressure to the engine oil temp. lol Oil gets hot, pressure drops through the floor - as in to zero.
I haven't done a UOA yet though I have the stuff. What was the difference you noticed with the gapless rings?
 
@consaka I asked about then wound up answering my own question here: Soot=0 and you can see the dipstick marks through the oil with 2000 miles on it. I once confused an engine oil leak with a diesel fuel leak due to the unheard of clear color of the leaking oil... Also includes UOA including from another ride that toasted the oil off due to the BD Spool Valve in 115+ degree summer:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/total-seal-gapless-rings.29135/
 
Yeah in combination with the low compression pistons I think the gapless second ring is a big help in starting. That and my three starting batteries. It starts pretty quick.
 
I second the "so what" and still do a post build thread. Everything isnt shiney here, this aint the millionaire truck owners forum. Haha.

Gapless rings help compression stay high longer, less fuel in the oil, way less carbon from getting to the oil so longer oil life.

Heat kills everything in an engine. Pfft- boiling off the water in the crankcase. Oil above 100* is plenty high Imo. The high oil temps are never good for anything.

The current turbo they sell is switzer s300/s400 hybrid.
 
You said junkyard block. What's the build date? IIRC there were some 93 and 94 blocks that were very prone to cracking through the cam bearing webs for some weird stress/casting flaw reason. A crack through the feed passage for any of the cam bearings would leak like an S.O.B. and it would stream down like you described and where you described.
 
Dude we definitely need pictures of your ride. I want to see your fab work on the turbo to.
 
Will L. said:
The current turbo they sell is switzer s300/s400 hybrid.
Click to expand...

Any idea what the specs would be? turbine and compressor specs? I love this turbo but am curious how it would compare to the holsett ck that everyone else seems to be running these days.
 
Husker6.5 said:
You said junkyard block. What's the build date? IIRC there were some 93 and 94 blocks that were very prone to cracking through the cam bearing webs for some weird stress/casting flaw reason. A crack through the feed passage for any of the cam bearings would leak like an S.O.B. and it would stream down like you described and where you described.
Click to expand...

I have no idea what block it is. Back then if I even knew I forgot. I will know within a few months though. I am still trying to figure the best way to pull this thing out. Not sure how I am going to do it considering I can't roll it out on the front wheels like I did before.
 
Jaryd said:
Dude we definitely need pictures of your ride. I want to see your fab work on the turbo to.
Click to expand...

Lol and I'd rather not show my fab work on the turbo. I'd Also not like to do it again but it looks like I might have to if I want to adjust the turbo placement a bit. Be nice to have a little smaller turbo, physically. That Switzer is a monster. Heavy too.

Ok I guess I'll start taking pictures and maybe post some vids over on my youtube channel. I got the cam in. It only took a month to do that. lol I should do a vid on the thermal expansion of pistons. The reason it takes so long is I get distracted with experiments. For instance, did you know if you take a piston and heat it to 270 degrees Fahrenheit it will no longer fit in the cylinder? Hehehe Yeah that was a fun one. Currently building a cheap harbor freight blast cabinet so I can do the coatings I want. Also have to figure out the solution to the main bearing bolts. Stupid things barely use half the threads in the block. That is not acceptable to me, especially when they already have a crack prone situation there.
 
I remember comparing the s300 was super close to hx35, and the s400 close to the hx40. So it is kinda like a hx 35/40 hybrid.

On the bolts, look at the arp studs. Many have done that. Most of the cracked main webs get helped along by bad harmonic balancers which usually pops the mains or breaks the crankshaft.

Yeah, heat swelling the pistons is huge. Not hard to see how the skirts wipe the cylinder walls huh? Haha. Coatings and cooling is mighty important.

Patiently waiting for the hotlink to your video.:)
 
Will L. said:
I remember comparing the s300 was super close to hx35, and the s400 close to the hx40. So it is kinda like a hx 35/40 hybrid.

On the bolts, look at the arp studs. Many have done that. Most of the cracked main webs get helped along by bad harmonic balancers which usually pops the mains or breaks the crankshaft.

Yeah, heat swelling the pistons is huge. Not hard to see how the skirts wipe the cylinder walls huh? Haha. Coatings and cooling is mighty important.

Patiently waiting for the hotlink to your video.:)
Click to expand...

I'll have to check out the arp main studs. Already got studs for the heads. It is all just money right?
Good info on the turbo. lol I like the setup of that switzer. cruising at 8,000lbs I have maybe 2 lbs of boost. Soon as I get into it she pops right up with whatever I need. No smoke to speak of and 17 lbs of boost easy or 22lbs if the water injection comes on. I'd love to find a comparable one that is affordable.
My new fluidampr came the other day. Just need to make sure its balance is similar to the old one.
Apparently Pistons are nothing more than a giant heat conduit. If we add too much for it then a hole magically appears in a piston. I already have some coatings that should help with that.

Videos. I have a bunch of stuff in the camera that hasn't made it to youtube yet. I am not so good with the camera and editing and what not. I need to get my nephew to help me out I think. Just not enough time in the day.
 
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