I am slowly learning about diesels with my first. A 1995 Chevrolet 2500 with 6.5. I have been having a problem with my check engine light coming on when accelerating on a hill and also noticed after 65 to 70 mph it comes on without hard accelerating. Also noticed a lack of power when this happens. I can stop the vehicle, shut it off and restart and the light goes off until I accelerate on a hill again or reach 65 mph or more. Installed a boost gauge with boost bolt replacing the middle rear bolt on top intake,but no reading at idle or when driving.Vacuum at the vacuum pump and at wastegate is 25 to 27. .with vehicle running wastegate acuator cannot be moved by hand, but it moves freely when not running. Had codes checked and showed wastegate solenoid, is this the same as the boost solenoid?I replaced boost solenoid today with no results.Vacuum lines replaced also.I dont know if this is related but even in warm weather the truck is hard to start with a little white smoke on startup.
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No Boost and service engine soon light
- Thread starter billky
- Start date
Big T
Well-Known Member
If there is truly no boost, truck would be a dog going uphill and you'd be blowing a ton of black smoke. The wategate solenoid is over by the brake master cylinder on the driver's side. They do go bad. Also you might take an ohm meter to the wiring harness and plug. I had a wire break internally just behind the plug. They sell replacement plugs at RockAuto that you can splice into place.
If all else fails, consider vac delete and turbo master or go all the way with the ATT.
If all else fails, consider vac delete and turbo master or go all the way with the ATT.
- Staff
- #3
Welcome, Billky ... take a few minutes to fill out your signature (click on the 'signature' link in mine...) so everybody knows what you're driving and what you've done to it. It'll save a lot of time for everybody!
It might also be a good idea to copy/paste the diagnostic checklist (also in my signature) into a new post, and fill it out as best you can (other than giving us the information we need to 'hear' your truck run, it is full of good general maintenance stuff that you need to pay attention to every so often).
This place has the best crop of 6.5 guys you'll find on the 'net, so give them good information, and they'll help you find the problem! In the times when you aren't solving your problems, pull up a stump, grab a coffee, and join in; this is a great community, too!
Jim
***on edit: You put the boost bolt in the middle rear bolt hole? Is it a blind hole or does it go straight through into the plenum? You should be getting readings on your gauge; that'll be an essential piece of information for all of us...
It might also be a good idea to copy/paste the diagnostic checklist (also in my signature) into a new post, and fill it out as best you can (other than giving us the information we need to 'hear' your truck run, it is full of good general maintenance stuff that you need to pay attention to every so often).
This place has the best crop of 6.5 guys you'll find on the 'net, so give them good information, and they'll help you find the problem! In the times when you aren't solving your problems, pull up a stump, grab a coffee, and join in; this is a great community, too!
Jim
***on edit: You put the boost bolt in the middle rear bolt hole? Is it a blind hole or does it go straight through into the plenum? You should be getting readings on your gauge; that'll be an essential piece of information for all of us...
chefmike
Not just a truck... a project.
Mine did the same thing, but showed boost when I installed a guage. I was getting overboost with the stock system. Tracked it back to a broken connector on the boost sensor (MAP sensor?) on the front of the intake. The connection was loose and must have messed up the PCMs readings.
I did no extensive testing to prove this, just fixed the connector snug, and all the problems went away, as the PCM would read the boost properly.
???? dumb luck?
I hope it is something as solvable for you. This truck does great for me... I have just learned not to be in a hurry if I want good fuel mileage!
I did no extensive testing to prove this, just fixed the connector snug, and all the problems went away, as the PCM would read the boost properly.
???? dumb luck?
I hope it is something as solvable for you. This truck does great for me... I have just learned not to be in a hurry if I want good fuel mileage!
Big T
Well-Known Member
Mine had the same problem with the plug at the boost sensor.
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
Check this thread for function & troubleshooting of your turbo system what code # are you getting that will help with the diagnostics,
More reference info for the 6.5 found here http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/forumdisplay.php?218-6-2-and-6-5-Technical-Reference-Library
More reference info for the 6.5 found here http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/forumdisplay.php?218-6-2-and-6-5-Technical-Reference-Library
Thanks, I will fill everything out tomorrow and post..Yes the directions were to remove either the front or rear bolt from the upper intake and replace with this boost bolt and attach hose from this bolt to gauge. Thank you so muc for the welcome.....Bill
G Carttar
New Member
New to the group, great answers.
So, If I get all of this right (94 6.5 TD - new Jasper Engine in a fire truck)...
I don't know if the mechanic that installed the new Jasper did anything with the engine control module, the PMD, or the vacuum system.
The old engine had several issues: a cracked or leaking head, engine dying without warning, service engine soon light coming on when pulling hills, etc.
We had the new Jasper put in, and it's not right at all. Mechanic is stymied. It has NOWHERE near the pep that the old and failing engine did, it still gets a service engine light on hills, and the engine does not "sound" right. As I recall, these engines clatter like hell when they start, this one does not. (I also have a 93TD of my own, and it rattles like mad when started) Also, many of these engines let out a belch of smoke when shifting gears, this new engine does not. It's like it is not getting enough fuel.
This is a Fire Truck (a mini-pumper and rescue truck) and we need it to kick ass.
So if someone could clarify the steps (all of them) to do additional work with replacing suspicious parts (any that are recommended), please do so, and I will pass the information on to our mechanic....or we might just do them in the station ourselves. Several of us are very serviceable mechanics.
We don't need a hot rod, but we do need a truck that runs the way it is supposed to and is reliable.
This forum and others have pointed me in the direction of getting rid of the vacuum system and getting a Heath turbomaster. I am confused about the PMD, if I get a new one do I need to remove the old one if I get a cooling kit?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Greg Carttar
Safety/Communication Officer
Central Taney County Fire Protection District
So, If I get all of this right (94 6.5 TD - new Jasper Engine in a fire truck)...
I don't know if the mechanic that installed the new Jasper did anything with the engine control module, the PMD, or the vacuum system.
The old engine had several issues: a cracked or leaking head, engine dying without warning, service engine soon light coming on when pulling hills, etc.
We had the new Jasper put in, and it's not right at all. Mechanic is stymied. It has NOWHERE near the pep that the old and failing engine did, it still gets a service engine light on hills, and the engine does not "sound" right. As I recall, these engines clatter like hell when they start, this one does not. (I also have a 93TD of my own, and it rattles like mad when started) Also, many of these engines let out a belch of smoke when shifting gears, this new engine does not. It's like it is not getting enough fuel.
This is a Fire Truck (a mini-pumper and rescue truck) and we need it to kick ass.
So if someone could clarify the steps (all of them) to do additional work with replacing suspicious parts (any that are recommended), please do so, and I will pass the information on to our mechanic....or we might just do them in the station ourselves. Several of us are very serviceable mechanics.
We don't need a hot rod, but we do need a truck that runs the way it is supposed to and is reliable.
This forum and others have pointed me in the direction of getting rid of the vacuum system and getting a Heath turbomaster. I am confused about the PMD, if I get a new one do I need to remove the old one if I get a cooling kit?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Greg Carttar
Safety/Communication Officer
Central Taney County Fire Protection District
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Billy, did you get it worked out?
Greg, welcome to The Truck Stop. It would be a good idea to start your own thread in the same section and use the diagnostic check list that is in the bottom of post number 3, along with filling out the specific truck information. If you guys are not working on the truck yourself although it's a good idea to learn what you can, having your mechanic check out this forum would be a really good idea. There are several professional mechanics that are using this forum frequently.
About the worst thing your mechanic to do is start throwing parts at it right now -diagnosis first and then replace what's needed. As opposed to removing the vacuum system to control the turbo for better long-term answer is a different turbo. There are far better turbos that cost less than the factory one which will pay for themselves in fuel savings. I would not venture to say a turbo is where you need to start your repairs. Proper diagnostics first, most mechanics are not familiar with this engine, doesn't mean they're bad mechanic this is just a breed all of its own.
Greg, welcome to The Truck Stop. It would be a good idea to start your own thread in the same section and use the diagnostic check list that is in the bottom of post number 3, along with filling out the specific truck information. If you guys are not working on the truck yourself although it's a good idea to learn what you can, having your mechanic check out this forum would be a really good idea. There are several professional mechanics that are using this forum frequently.
About the worst thing your mechanic to do is start throwing parts at it right now -diagnosis first and then replace what's needed. As opposed to removing the vacuum system to control the turbo for better long-term answer is a different turbo. There are far better turbos that cost less than the factory one which will pay for themselves in fuel savings. I would not venture to say a turbo is where you need to start your repairs. Proper diagnostics first, most mechanics are not familiar with this engine, doesn't mean they're bad mechanic this is just a breed all of its own.