New to the board and trucks in general (not equipment).

[Human_Backhoe]

Hey all. I’m new to any custom truck work. Although I am a farmer and not at all new to equipment and diesels.

Hoping to learn from other’s experience and mistakes so I don’t make the same ones.

Not at all new to the boards in general.

I have a GMC 6500 dump I am thinking swapping the 350 out of for a diesel. No decisions have been make as of yet. I have been running her hard on the farm since 2014 and over winter I want to give her a face lift and some new life. Taking the steel box off and putting a new hardwood high side box on etc.

I’m an electrician and millwright who builds machines in the industrial sector for a living so I’m reasonably handy.

Looking forward to meet you guys

 

[Human_Backhoe]

Unrelated shit that I can help with and actually be of use.

Custom controllers. Have built them for balers. Dpf emulators.

xenforo stuff. I have a fitness board.

Anything equipment. Just re did the top end of a Kubota Svl 90-2

Anything cattle or farm.

 

[denata]

Hi man .
Are you have backhoe?
Like this:

 

[Human_Backhoe]

Hi man .
Are you have backhoe?
Like this:
View attachment 82524

Little bigger

 

[Human_Backhoe]

Hi man .
Are you have backhoe?
Like this:

I’m not that bright and have a history of doing things by hand that I should use equipment for lol. I’m pretty beat up because of it.

 

[Will L.]

Welcome.
Go into some detail what you are trying to get out of the diesel vs gas engine.
Picking the right engine and cost with realistic expectations is key from the beginning.

If you are thinking this is the cheaper route stop now and go buy another gas engine.
Diesel is far more expensive on day 1. Long term, a lot of miles/ hours used - it can eventually pay for itself.
Unless you are given a running diesel pickup for free, You will spend $5,000 to $10,000 doing this on the cheap. Some diesel conversions go $20-$50,000.
So when I say “WHATS YOUR BUDGET” that is not an optional question.

Do you care about full of electronics like modern diesels- or prefer mostly mechanical?
The newer ones produce more power and parts are everywhere. Older mechanical can be simple and reliable but not as much power.

Being work truck, low rpm torque is more useful than high rpm horsepower. But gearing fixes the world.

Are you wanting to keep your same transmission- if so what is it?

Filling out the signature line with current details helps with knowing what we are working on. Update as you modify it- the signature line pops up automatically so you don’t rewrite stuff and we don’t have to re ask stuff.

The default I will go to is keeping the transmission as it is most common.

Duramax and older 6.2/6.5 can both bolt up in place of a 350. Thats why most conversion people pop in to this site.
If automatic trans you will need a different torque converter.

Duramax is more power, modern engine involves electronics. Hits higher mileage easier but when something fails parts are always more expensive. But diesel shops near you will know how to work on it.

6.2/6.5 (same engine just different bore- common refer to as 6.5) is 1980 through early 2000. Still in production and will be through 2035 we know of because of the hmmwv. Can be done fully mechanical except starter, alternator, and power to the run solenoid. History of shorter life- but modifications are all well known to get a good long life from them. 200,000 miles is common. Parts are cheaper- example is a full set of injectors can be had for 1 or 2 of them for a duramax. This forum and maybe a couple others are going to be the only source for how to fix - local diesel shops don’t know and avoid these old engines like the plague- and they have a horrible reputation because of it- and honestly 25% rightly deserved.

If you get a 6.5 and don’t start with a new engine- 50% chance you will be rebuilding it.
The expense of a new one- I still recommend people getting inside a new one about 50% of the time to get the most out of it. Mass production vs hand details makes everything last longer.

Duramax there is some external stuff to do- nothing inside is needed. But the electronics side means go buy a running pickup and an high end scanner to start with.
If you already have a good scanner and deal with automotive electronics and diagnostics all the time- working in 2010 and newer vehicles is super comfortable- dmax is probably your way to go. Using the Dmax engine and its transmission is 99% chance the smarter move if you go that route.
I (and Denata above) are sparkies also. So vfd, contol systems, etc are understood by the three of us. But automotive electronics is its own ball of wax. Like putting a lineman infront of a vfd. He will safely know how to be confused. I am NOT the guy for duramax computer systems- there are guys here that can help with that.

I hate electronics. Avoided as much as possible. I miss carburetors and points.
So I have the older 6.5. I dont even have a check engine light that tells me anything about the engine. Gauges are mechanical or simple ground resistance sending units. Caveman simple electrically. Mechanical fuel injection = DB2

There is newer 6.5 in 1994 and newer gm pickups and hummer 96-2004. They need computer for occasional repairs.
2006 hummer and 2001-today gm pickups all use duramax. Engine details change every few years. computer for many of the repairs. Electronic fuel injection =DS4.

The duramax gets DESTROYED by bad fuel. Very best fuel filtering lift pumps system is not an option imo.
Certain ones need a harmonic balancer/ crankshaft modification that is easy and external of the engine, easily done before you install it. No other modifications are required- you Will spend 70% of the conversion time in electronics and adapting the pickup dash into your cabin.

The 6.5 should have good filtration - a top end water filter is smart not required. Lift pump choices are easier but best is best for a reason.
The engine modifications all cost money and depends on budget, use, your capabilities.

 

[dbrannon79]

Welcome to the forum @Human_Backhoe

 

[Human_Backhoe]

Welcome.
Go into some detail what you are trying to get out of the diesel vs gas engine.
Picking the right engine and cost with realistic expectations is key from the beginning.

If you are thinking this is the cheaper route stop now and go buy another gas engine.
Diesel is far more expensive on day 1. Long term, a lot of miles/ hours used - it can eventually pay for itself.
Unless you are given a running diesel pickup for free, You will spend $5,000 to $10,000 doing this on the cheap. Some diesel conversions go $20-$50,000.
So when I say “WHATS YOUR BUDGET” that is not an optional question.

Do you care about full of electronics like modern diesels- or prefer mostly mechanical?
The newer ones produce more power and parts are everywhere. Older mechanical can be simple and reliable but not as much power.

Being work truck, low rpm torque is more useful than high rpm horsepower. But gearing fixes the world.

Are you wanting to keep your same transmission- if so what is it?

Filling out the signature line with current details helps with knowing what we are working on. Update as you modify it- the signature line pops up automatically so you don’t rewrite stuff and we don’t have to re ask stuff.

The default I will go to is keeping the transmission as it is most common.

Duramax and older 6.2/6.5 can both bolt up in place of a 350. Thats why most conversion people pop in to this site.
If automatic trans you will need a different torque converter.

Duramax is more power, modern engine involves electronics. Hits higher mileage easier but when something fails parts are always more expensive. But diesel shops near you will know how to work on it.

6.2/6.5 (same engine just different bore- common refer to as 6.5) is 1980 through early 2000. Still in production and will be through 2035 we know of because of the hmmwv. Can be done fully mechanical except starter, alternator, and power to the run solenoid. History of shorter life- but modifications are all well known to get a good long life from them. 200,000 miles is common. Parts are cheaper- example is a full set of injectors can be had for 1 or 2 of them for a duramax. This forum and maybe a couple others are going to be the only source for how to fix - local diesel shops don’t know and avoid these old engines like the plague- and they have a horrible reputation because of it- and honestly 25% rightly deserved.

If you get a 6.5 and don’t start with a new engine- 50% chance you will be rebuilding it.
The expense of a new one- I still recommend people getting inside a new one about 50% of the time to get the most out of it. Mass production vs hand details makes everything last longer.

Duramax there is some external stuff to do- nothing inside is needed. But the electronics side means go buy a running pickup and an high end scanner to start with.
If you already have a good scanner and deal with automotive electronics and diagnostics all the time- working in 2010 and newer vehicles is super comfortable- dmax is probably your way to go. Using the Dmax engine and its transmission is 99% chance the smarter move if you go that route.
I (and Denata above) are sparkies also. So vfd, contol systems, etc are understood by the three of us. But automotive electronics is its own ball of wax. Like putting a lineman infront of a vfd. He will safely know how to be confused. I am NOT the guy for duramax computer systems- there are guys here that can help with that.

I hate electronics. Avoided as much as possible. I miss carburetors and points.
So I have the older 6.5. I dont even have a check engine light that tells me anything about the engine. Gauges are mechanical or simple ground resistance sending units. Caveman simple electrically. Mechanical fuel injection = DB2

There is newer 6.5 in 1994 and newer gm pickups and hummer 96-2004. They need computer for occasional repairs.
2006 hummer and 2001-today gm pickups all use duramax. Engine details change every few years. computer for many of the repairs. Electronic fuel injection =DS4.

The duramax gets DESTROYED by bad fuel. Very best fuel filtering lift pumps system is not an option imo.
Certain ones need a harmonic balancer/ crankshaft modification that is easy and external of the engine, easily done before you install it. No other modifications are required- you Will spend 70% of the conversion time in electronics and adapting the pickup dash into your cabin.

The 6.5 should have good filtration - a top end water filter is smart not required. Lift pump choices are easier but best is best for a reason.
The engine modifications all cost money and depends on budget, use, your capabilities.

Damn! Sorry I couldn’t respond sooner. I really wasn’t expecting a detailed response like that!

I hate anything electronic and almost everything I own is mechanically injected. In the past 10 years I have put 10 miles on the truck. I just use it for farm work and the occasional trip to the Neighbors. My last experience with the 6.5. Was negative as the photo eye that took the timing off the crack was not functioning correctly as I had fuel with algae in it on a trip to North Carolina

My goal is to simply have a bit of fun and kinda restore the truck. It has a 4 speed manual in her that I kind of enjoy as it reminds me of my 77 gm 1 ton.


As for your mandatory question…. I would say 5k for the engine and another 10 to get her road worthy. It was a plow truck and I want to use those hydraulics to put a cattle derailleur up front for fun etc.

With that budget keeping in mind I am going to do everything myself. What are your thoughts?