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New to site 425 Hp from a 6.5

The second picture is the side shot of a P400 engine.

The first picture is the kind of side shot of a regular 6.5.

The P400 has forged crank, one piece ladder main caps, piston squirters near the pan rail, different connecting rods, different pistons, different oil pan, and supposedly stronger heads.
 

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The piston squirters looked so different, I think a change in the block is nessesary to accommodate them. I don't know about the block as far as cylinder walls and such go, but there is very minimal room for thicker cylinder walls in my 599 block, so I doubt they were changed. There is areas it could be improved, but I don't have one here to compare to to verify.
 
CIL6, did you get permission from Diesel Page to use one of their pics, when I was mod at Place Jim B was pretty particular about using their information without permission and had me remove their stuff from that site when folks would copy/paste I send to mod forum for discussion but we may have to remove that picture.
 
chevyinlinesix said:
The first picture is the side shot of a P400 engine.

The second picture is the kind of side shot of a regular 6.5.

The P400 has forged crank, one piece ladder main caps, piston squirters near the pan rail, different connecting rods, different pistons, different oil pan, and supposedly stronger heads.
Click to expand...

I believe it's vice versa on the pics
 
They may have all information posted on the site copyrighted thus copying a pic and reposting with out having permission would be a copyright violation.
 
so the bottom line is one you can get parts for and one you can't.It don't matter how good an engine is or how well it was built,if you can't get parts for it,then what good is it.
 
Thought ,amg optimizer was the only one. I think the 6.2 block is stronger than the 6.5 probably more nickle in the 80's blocks.
 
Sounds kinda that way, p400 is just the glorified version, dont mater to me because I could never afford it . Sounds like the way to go if money is not a problem.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Blah-Blah-Blah that would be me I guess among some others.

Bigger does not always equate to cooler there is a science to the heat rejection rate and system flow calcs, important to have the right radiator not just a bigger one, possibly a smaller one will be better.

You can target size a rad for a given range and see some improvement at one end, but alther end can be detrimental, worth exploring I guess, I don't ever have a plow up front, but Ive never overheated either even on the hottest summer days here in the deep south, except when rad & condenser cores were blocked up with debris in between the fins, sometimes you trade out for happy medium which is where the OEM rad puts you.
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I have to agree here. I run a dual 1.25" core Griffin radiator(2.5" total thick).
only 24 inch X 17 core, in my 6.5. have H.O. Water pump/dual therm crossover with 180 stats. my ECT never goes beyond 185. A little low for most, but ok with me. never rises, even with repetitive WOT runs. never use the 2 e-fans on it, ever.

I dont think there is a need for a massive radiator to cool a 6.5, unless it is used for heavy towing/long duration high load situations. JMHO.

EDIt: isn't there an OP? lol
 
chevyinlinesix said:
GEP, General Engine Products makes the P400 blocks. They are a division of AMG. They are assembled at the Franklin, Ohio plant.
Click to expand...

I got a plan. this place is only 3 hours from my home.

Will work for longblock, or chain myself to a P400, swallow lock key. no choice for them :D
 
Matt Bachand said:
Thats right where I have mine going on. I loosened the tab about 1/4 inch. I first did it 1/8 " and it would reach 215 under load without engagement.. had to let off. so I went another 1/8th. Now under light rpm it will engage a tad over 200, and on a highway climb it will engage at higher rpm.

It only takes 10 minutes to make a re-adjustment...

This only engages when I have my plow on. I've never had it engage without plow.

Best mod I ever did. No more worries.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=12265&highlight=clutch
Click to expand...

great info and thread!! gonna try this tonight. thanks GMCTD
 
Matt Bachand said:
Wasn't thinking of you specifically Tim at time of write, but lets use you as an example here as I merely go about 'chit chatting' with my buds here in a dead thread that has been taking over with common chatter.

Different radiator is not necessary Tim, as proven by you and many others. Your trucks also are 'cherry'. You also have a knowledgeable:thumbsup:, mechanical:thumbsup:, and financial advantage over alot of 6.5 owners. Just merely saying, if we took your truck that reached 209 ect, and say 230 iat on that hot pull, and found that by putting a larger radiator that disperses more heat than a stock jobby, perhaps your same cherry truck would now not even cross the 205 or 200 mark, which in result may lower your IAT's a tad, which would help lower the EGTs some too perhaps.

I would never double guess your inputs, but since we are in the 'performance' area, just chit-chatting in a dead thread, I am not sure how a radiator that disperses more heat at the hot side of the spectrum, would deteriorate performance on the cool side when that is controlled by a mechanical thermostat, sometimes 2.

Now say this same larger radiator worked well on GM GUY's 230pull, bringing those temps down under 210 where he feels better about them. This may not cure the problem that his waterpump is not providing sufficient flow for coolant, but will keep his engine heatlhier none the less, bandaid fix or not. Since he's already running a 17 year old radiator, perhaps there is a better radiator out there to shed more heat with little modificiation, instead of buying a new stocker. Then when his waterpump goes, which may be a few 100k miles away, then thats a great time to go high output.

Perhaps if GMGUY just adjusted his fan clutch a 1/8th to 1/4 inch out, it would kick on around 205, and never let the temps reach that high.

Now a fan clutched to kick on at 205, with the high flow cooling system, and the oversized radiator may be the ultimate solution. But simply just replacing the radiator to a larger one, or perhaps just adjusting his clutch may put the truck in the safe operating range cheaper and easier, with possibly superior performance down the road. Replacing parts only when they completely fail.
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Well, I'll put some #s out there in the spring when I put the 6.5 Turbo setup on my CUCV. That thing has a MONSTEROUS Rad so it will be interesting to see. I'm using a GM4 which is probably the hottest running turbo IAT/EGT wise so maybe we can put the whole bigger rad/more air from grille thing to a real test. I personally think the engine will run MUCH cooler in an OBS truck with the 4 core monster rqad and nice open grille. I have a crisp 1 dollar bill that says so too...:devil:
as far as the other post about spending 10,000$ bulding a 6.5 P400 or whatever that is just insane. Look, I like these engines for what they are but if you got 10k laying around grab a 24v cummins out of a wreck, P pump it and drop it in. You'll get way way more HP and it will hold together 10x better. A few guys here built some CHUM's. If the 6.2 in my CUCV pukes a P pumped 24v is a goin in.
 
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