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New to site 425 Hp from a 6.5

Also remember, the older rads can be huge but be one or 2 rows, so its still not that efficient. Mine was redone to a 3 or 4 core rad, :thumbsup:
 
Matt Bachand said:
Bigger the better for sure. I agree Aces, no matter what all the 'A properly cooled 6.5, blah blah blah' people say. Even if the system is TIp-Top, best it could get... Still only benefits from a larger Radiator.

No chance a 6.2 Radiator would fit? How much larger is it?
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Blah-Blah-Blah that would be me I guess among some others.

Bigger does not always equate to cooler there is a science to the heat rejection rate and system flow calcs, important to have the right radiator not just a bigger one, possibly a smaller one will be better.

You can target size a rad for a given range and see some improvement at one end, but alther end can be detrimental, worth exploring I guess, I don't ever have a plow up front, but Ive never overheated either even on the hottest summer days here in the deep south, except when rad & condenser cores were blocked up with debris in between the fins, sometimes you trade out for happy medium which is where the OEM rad puts you.
 
We have not cleaned the 92 yet, and she is running bone stock, the hottest we had her was about 230 It was summer with a combination weight of 23K lbs, on a stretch of road with plenty of hills, this hill was the last one, it was a little steeper than rest, I watched the like a hawk on the first couple, accidently ignored that last hill, (i think talking with mom, or on the phone) turned to full defrost and took foot out when i saw what happened halfway up.

Other than that, it never went above 210. I credit the lack of issues to having no A/C from factory, a manual transmission (biggest thing of all) and conservative driving. I think it still will get the upgraded pump from heath (the one that is balanced)

I agree fully with TD, there is much more to it than size, on our gleaner combines, there is the model L2 that comes with two engine choices. the small engine radiator is actually bigger in dimension, and the oil cooler is mounted seperately. there are fewer rows, and courser fins. the big engine radiator is smaller, but the fins are finer and there are many more rows. the oil cooler is still air to oil, but it is built into the radiator unit. IDK what research Allis Chalmers did, but they apparently ran into some different issues with the other motor, and so the system changed accordingly. Size apparently is not the only variable.
 
Someone earlier stated that brass & copper was better than aluminum? I believe the coefficient of heat transfer for aluminum to air is considerably better than the other choices.

A typical late model aluminum radiator could have serrated fins which give it a bunch of surface area and air turbulance to assist with giving up heat. The down side with this is that they don't clean easily without damage as compared to the wavey fins. Also, offset fins vs. in-line fins are better for cooling but plug very easy, very difficult to clean.

Yet another trade off between function and service life. In a way, unfortunitely, the radiator package is an air filter and nobody likes to service them. It would be much easier if the factory sent them with a removable screen? Shut off engine, lift hood, pull screen and shake it a bit, stick it back in there and go!

Over and out!

So, what about that 425 HP hand grenade?
 
It would be nice if the OEMs make some cool looking easily serviceable bug screens, either metal frame in a track behind the grille, or a mesh one that snaps on front.
 
GM Guy said:
It would be nice if the OEMs make some cool looking easily serviceable bug screens, either metal frame in a track behind the grille, or a mesh one that snaps on front.
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I have a mesh one that snaps on in front that I got from Cabellas. I have never used it but looks like it would do a good job.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Blah-Blah-Blah that would be me I guess among some others.

Bigger does not always equate to cooler there is a science to the heat rejection rate and system flow calcs, important to have the right radiator not just a bigger one, possibly a smaller one will be better.

You can target size a rad for a given range and see some improvement at one end, but alther end can be detrimental, worth exploring I guess, I don't ever have a plow up front, but Ive never overheated either even on the hottest summer days here in the deep south, except when rad & condenser cores were blocked up with debris in between the fins, sometimes you trade out for happy medium which is where the OEM rad puts you.
Click to expand...


Wasn't thinking of you specifically Tim at time of write, but lets use you as an example here as I merely go about 'chit chatting' with my buds here in a dead thread that has been taking over with common chatter.

Different radiator is not necessary Tim, as proven by you and many others. Your trucks also are 'cherry'. You also have a knowledgeable:thumbsup:, mechanical:thumbsup:, and financial advantage over alot of 6.5 owners. Just merely saying, if we took your truck that reached 209 ect, and say 230 iat on that hot pull, and found that by putting a larger radiator that disperses more heat than a stock jobby, perhaps your same cherry truck would now not even cross the 205 or 200 mark, which in result may lower your IAT's a tad, which would help lower the EGTs some too perhaps.

I would never double guess your inputs, but since we are in the 'performance' area, just chit-chatting in a dead thread, I am not sure how a radiator that disperses more heat at the hot side of the spectrum, would deteriorate performance on the cool side when that is controlled by a mechanical thermostat, sometimes 2.

Now say this same larger radiator worked well on GM GUY's 230pull, bringing those temps down under 210 where he feels better about them. This may not cure the problem that his waterpump is not providing sufficient flow for coolant, but will keep his engine heatlhier none the less, bandaid fix or not. Since he's already running a 17 year old radiator, perhaps there is a better radiator out there to shed more heat with little modificiation, instead of buying a new stocker. Then when his waterpump goes, which may be a few 100k miles away, then thats a great time to go high output.

Perhaps if GMGUY just adjusted his fan clutch a 1/8th to 1/4 inch out, it would kick on around 205, and never let the temps reach that high.

Now a fan clutched to kick on at 205, with the high flow cooling system, and the oversized radiator may be the ultimate solution. But simply just replacing the radiator to a larger one, or perhaps just adjusting his clutch may put the truck in the safe operating range cheaper and easier, with possibly superior performance down the road. Replacing parts only when they completely fail.
 
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well, all it needs is maintenance on the current setup. clutch is there for looks and shits and giggles at the moment.(never heard that thing come close to engaging) radiator has never been cleaned, coolant has yet to be changed by us, leaky crossover, so prolly a bit of insufficient boost, etc, etc.

I think it needs some maintenance first, then ill look into a bigger rad. barely got dad to creak open the wallet for a filler neck. he will damn near crap himself when it is crossover and oil cooler time (most pressing issues now)
 
bah! I'm not suggesting to anyone to go buy a radiator!

but perhaps you should try loosening your clutch up a little, give some life to that worn clutch perhaps.
 
what was the link to freshen up the clutch? I cant find for some reason, but it is late.

If you adjust it right, when will it engage? i don't want it engaging until 205-215. she doesn't have much power, so i would not like to rob any power unless it is necessary.
 
Thats right where I have mine going on. I loosened the tab about 1/4 inch. I first did it 1/8 " and it would reach 215 under load without engagement.. had to let off. so I went another 1/8th. Now under light rpm it will engage a tad over 200, and on a highway climb it will engage at higher rpm.

It only takes 10 minutes to make a re-adjustment...

This only engages when I have my plow on. I've never had it engage without plow.

Best mod I ever did. No more worries.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=12265&highlight=clutch
 
If you got the money and time....

Sorry guys to hear all about how poorly the 6.5 is incapable
of producing 425 hp..it has been done years ago and is still
able to do it..cooling is a issue but now with h20 it might also be a tad easier...there is a new way...but I should say it is back too old school...
yeah your right the new db4 pump.. getting the heat out of the engine department is where it is going to start.
 
trdwlr said:
Sorry guys to hear all about how poorly the 6.5 is incapable
of producing 425 hp..it has been done years ago and is still
able to do it..cooling is a issue but now with h20 it might also be a tad easier...there is a new way...but I should say it is back too old school...
yeah your right the new db4 pump.. getting the heat out of the engine department is where it is going to start.
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so you got 425hp from a 6.5L? Please do tell.
 
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