New to me, gas saver.

[DieselSlug]

New to the Buick scene, well not quite yet but in the process. My dad bought a 2001 Buick Century custom about 2-3 years ago with 50K miles in mint condition. It has the 3.1L engine. Its now up in the 130's and is starting to show surface rust on the rockers along with some issues. My dad just got a new job further away so he just bought a 2010 Ford Fusion 6 speed manual, its a sweet looking ride!

I struck a deal with him to buy his Buick. I'm still in college and need a gas saver as i drive the Silverado, Mustang and lifted Wrangler all the time. He convinced me he gets mid to upper 20's with this car for MPG's. I did the math and if i keep this car for a year (till i graduate...again) i will save $1,300 in fuel. So the purchase price seems to be right around $1,000.

The car does have a few issues: The muffler just fell off last week (rest of exhaust is very solid). The drivers window doesn't go down, it only likes to go up (i guess its better this way). The fuel gauge has been stuck on full for about 1.5 years. The car has started running a tad warm while sitting in traffic but is fine when moving. The ABS kicks on every once and a while when stopping. The PRNDL/ odom light is dim.

Some of the good includes brand new snow tires installed last winter, two new front struts installed this summer along with new front wheel bearings and brakes, new radiator last year, new blower motor and replaced intake gaskets last year. The A/C still works great, and runs real nice!

Sorry for the essay, but here is the only pics i have. Don't mind the circled Colt, i should have never sold that ride.

I can't wait to finally get a car where i can just turn the key and drive, get decent mileage and comfortable too!

 

[WarWagon]

Looks like you will need over $300.00 in parts. Bad deal. Look at the 3.1 intake manifold for coolant leaks into the engine. Stick with your ultimate gas saver the "Diesel" 6.5.

 

[DieselSlug]

Looks like you will need over $300.00 in parts. Bad deal. Look at the 3.1 intake manifold for coolant leaks into the engine. Stick with your ultimate gas saver the "Diesel" 6.5.

The intake did leak before, and was fixed with fel-pro, shouldn't be an issue but it doesn't use any fluids.

He just called and said the PRNDL/odom just went out, so he dropped it another 100 bucks.

To fix the dash lights there is a resistor fix. $.99 for the resistors needed, just solder them in.
To fix the fuel gauge the sending unit is common failure. Fuel pump module on ebay for $69 (there is an access hatch, no need to drop tank)
Fixing the muffler will need a weld, the nipple broke off the muffler, so if i get a 2'' coupler and weld to the muffler and re-attached that will be fixed.
Two rear hub bearings to fix ABS are $80 on ebay (since i dont know which rear it is)
He bought a new drivers master switch last night and installed, told me the window works fine now.
Not sure about the warm thing, maybe a fan relay not working on high?


Main plan is to leave the plow attached to the truck all winter. In the winter on blend and idle time im lucky to hit 14 MPG's driving 70+ miles per day. Just can't afford that while getting only 17 hours a week at work.

 

[WarWagon]

I just don't see pushing an old high mile car 70+ miles a day cheap on parts. Can you move closer to reduce the 70 miles a day?

Water pump or t-stat could also be an issue. Dex-mud clogging thing up is possible. Fan test is a good place to start.

$1000 in fuel at $3.5 a gal getting 14 MPG gets you through 57 days. You were only saving $300 on fuel anyway over the cost of the car. Thus not worth the hassle over your truck. (left the door opener in the other car, textbook, etc.)

 

[DieselSlug]

I just don't see pushing an old high mile car 70+ miles a day cheap on parts. Can you move closer to reduce the 70 miles a day?

Water pump or t-stat could also be an issue. Dex-mud clogging thing up is possible. Fan test is a good place to start.

$1000 in fuel at $3.5 a gal getting 14 MPG gets you through 57 days. You were only saving $300 on fuel anyway over the cost of the car. Thus not worth the hassle over your truck. (left the door opener in the other car, textbook, etc.)

Moving prolly wouldn't help my situation at all, not to mention i only have 1 more year of this type of travel. Most of the miles come from driving back and forth. Usually my days start from home to work, then i go from work to school, then back to work and finally back home. Other days ill go from home to school, to work, then back to school and then home. Its due to my awful school schedule that does not benefit commuters at all. Leaving any time i'm not in school time when i need to be at work trying to make money for rent and other bills. I also didn't take into consideration the amount of driving i will do on the weekends, which will vary depending on what we do.

I've actually been trying to sell my Jeep to get back down to 3 rides, but no interest. Its amazing, its well priced for the cash and conditions and all i get are craigslist scum.

Here gasoline is $3.59 a gallon, diesel is $4.15 a gallon which plays a large role.

My plan was to sell the car after my senior year of college (next spring/summer) for $1,400 or so. That's how i figured id make a lot of my money back.

My dad has never been stranded in the car, and he actually drives it about around 90 miles a day (that's how the miles got racked up so fast).

Haha, i got yah on the leaving crap in either one for sure!

 

[WarWagon]

Keep the Jeep! There is your other ride...
I leased a V-6 S-15 in my last 2 years of college. It was cheaper than parts keeping a high mile 1993 pickup running. It wound up being too small for my needs. Every weekend it had a 6x12 U-haul on it running redline to keep the speed limit hauling donated computers around. Lease said 45K. It didn't say anything about 45K at WOT full load etc... It then sat all week in the dorm parking lot.

GM will re-arch a rear leaf spring under warranty - once. It went back with a nasty exhaust manifold tic. Red mountain pass gave it that.

Regardless there is my point - your dad is already needing the collection of parts now running these miles. Just the normal parts are going to seriously impact your budget and offset any fuel savings.

 

[DieselSlug]

This is true, and the way it looks im not getting any good interest in the Jeep. Ive got way to much involved to give it away.

 

[handcannon]

We have an 05 Buick Century with the 3.1 motor. My wife drives it just over 50 miles a day to her job and back home, about half of that at freeway speeds. She gets 23 to 25 MPG with that type of driving. She tends to be hard on fuel mileage with pedal to the metal speed increases. On long drives, freeway speeds, I can get 30 to 31 out of it.

It's had the ABS light coming on lately. Turns out it is the front sensors. Have to replace the complete wheel bearing and speed sensor unit, even with the bearings still in good shape. I hate unitized things like this, can't replace just what is bad, or take apart and clean the sensors. I replaced the front rotors and pads a few months back. Just recently pulled the ABS fuse to stop the annoying light and occasional vibrations, until we can afford to replace the front unit wheel bearings.

Overall, I'm happy with the car. Decent mileage for the type of use. Could be better MPG with a newer car that is designed for better MPG, but that would require payments that we can't afford, and would negate the good mileage we currently get.

Good luck with your Buick Century.

Don

 

[DieselSlug]

We have an 05 Buick Century with the 3.1 motor. My wife drives it just over 50 miles a day to her job and back home, about half of that at freeway speeds. She gets 23 to 25 MPG with that type of driving. She tends to be hard on fuel mileage with pedal to the metal speed increases. On long drives, freeway speeds, I can get 30 to 31 out of it.

It's had the ABS light coming on lately. Turns out it is the front sensors. Have to replace the complete wheel bearing and speed sensor unit, even with the bearings still in good shape. I hate unitized things like this, can't replace just what is bad, or take apart and clean the sensors. I replaced the front rotors and pads a few months back. Just recently pulled the ABS fuse to stop the annoying light and occasional vibrations, until we can afford to replace the front unit wheel bearings.

Overall, I'm happy with the car. Decent mileage for the type of use. Could be better MPG with a newer car that is designed for better MPG, but that would require payments that we can't afford, and would negate the good mileage we currently get.

Good luck with your Buick Century.

Don

Thanks, right now i'm currently driving it but haven't paid for it. Gonna let this week play out and see how i like it. My dad just replaced both front hub bearings because it was a lot worse. Now it just happens sometimes when backing up, leaving both rears to be suspected. Its still not enough to trip the CEL light and ABS light, but you can feel it in the pedal.

 

[Ed HD]

If the LIM has been replaced, you should be alright. Looks like you've done your research, and know what you're getting into. I've seen 3100/3400's with well over 200k on the motor with no issues if properly maintained. Their big brother 3800 was more reliable, I have 201k on my 03 Bonne, but GM didn't screw up *too* bad with these either. Good luck with it.

 

[DieselSlug]

Thanks! So far i like it. I have only been driving about 30 miles a day as im not in school yet.

 

[DieselSlug]

Here are some little parts i've picked up for it. A coupler so i can get the muffler back on, that was $4.13 along with a clamp that was $3.89. I'm going to get my friend to weld the coupler to the muffler as its still very solid then clamp it right back on.
I got a 5 pack of resistors to fix the PRND321/odometer readout, that was $1.49 from Radioshack.
I found a local company here on EBay called prime choice, they sell the rear hub assemblys' to fix the ABS issue for $20.43 each. Since its a just a car i don't mind cheaping out here, plus they seem easy to replace. This same company sells a fuel module which i also need due to the fuel gauge not working. This module is $44.73, i'm sure it won't be wicked accurate, but as long as its in a vicinity. I will purchase these tomorrow.
Also picked up a oil filter, its got about 2K more miles till it needs a change, so i will be ready when the time comes.

You can see how the inlet of the muffler rotted off.

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I also found out this car is a 2001, not a 2002 like i thought. First post edited.

 

[DieselSlug]

Well i've fixed the PRND321/Odometer. Pulled the cluster out and i could see where the 4 resistors were, but one had fallen out. I brushed the other three with my fingers and they fell right out.

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I soldered the radio shack units in the best i could. Hard with sausages as fingers, but it looks mediocre. No one will see it.

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Here is the finished unit, working digital readout for $1.49 and maybe 40 minutes of my time.

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[DieselSlug]

I've also picked up a new fuel pump module for $44.97 and two new rear wheel bearing/hub assembly's for $41.70.

Total cost into parts, $88.16

Over the last week/fill up i averaged 25.7 MPG in the country hills.

I also looked at the air filter yesterday and its nasty. Going to Napa at lunch to get one. I also want to check the spark plugs at some point, i'm thinking they are original. Been so busy with my day job and doing side work every night i have to find time to get this stuff done.