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New to diesels - 96 Sub 1500 6.5TD

96Sub1500

New Member
Messages
23
Reaction score
2
Location
Eastern VA
Hello all,

I've been lurking for a little while on the diesel page and the truck stop. I really like this site, the knowledge, and how helpful everyone is. I've wanted a diesel truck for a while and my friend originally peaked my interests in the CUCV M1009 with promises of low miles and around $3k. I looked at everything diesel under $6k for a while (it would be a second vehicle and I will not finance) and saw older fords, chevs, and dodges. Another friend who does site work said only buy 7.3 powerstroke's younger than 97 or a duramax. Another said absolutely no to the 6.2 ("its a turd").

I looked and looked and looked. I like the cummins motor but once you add 4x4 and extended cab the price range goes up. I really like road tripping and don't have anything big to haul so I finally started looking at diesel burbs. I read almost every post on this site and learned the good and the bad about these motors.

I finally settled on one that was relatively close and in really good shape mechanically. The down side is 266k miles. The upside is two owners and the second kept all his receipts. I don't have any pictures yet (he already took down the craigslist ad) but its basically a:

1996 Suburban 1500 6.5TD
266,000 miles
Fully loaded
Some dashcracks and split front leather seat but everything else is near new inside
Ok paint (hood is going and roof could use some attention)
New GM replacement IP at 217k
A/C doesn't work (new compressor but leak at rear a/c)
New radiator
ABS was unplugged (light is on if I plug it in)

I've already recreated a maintenance and life cycle spreadsheet from carfax and the previous owner's receipts. He's been using synthetic in the motor which makes me feel like he at least did what he could to take care of it.

So on my basic list of to do's in order is:
EGT/FP/Trans/Boost gauges
Secure a spare motor (Teds maybe)
Diamond Eye 4"
K47 air box
Cooling system upgrades
Flashed ECM
ATT if the stocker ever blows out

First on my list though is doing something with the A/C. At some point the rear was serviced and the threads on the smaller line (at the rear junction) were messed up so JB weld was applied. Can the rear A/C be disconnected somewhere upfront and just run the front A/C?

Second, the ABS light is on. I've never had ABS so I'm not sure where to start. Just unplug it and drive it normally? I don't know if the problem is a wheel sensor or the actual unit. I am getting back my OBDII bluetooth module this week to check codes etc...

The truck starts right up after the glow light goes out. No real smoke. Runs good.

Is the best place to check blow by by pulling the CDR?

I'm still trying to get used to this diesel thing. I am so used to gas concepts and have years of reprogramming ECU's (mostly dodge turbo cars), building megasquirts, wideband O2, etc..... and now nothing is based on vacuum or AFR its all about EGT's (still baffles my that the motor doesn't "run away" like a gas motor would on fixed gas but unlimited air).

Hopefully I won't be tooo NOOB for you. I've been doing my reading.

Thanks!
Dylan
 
.............split front leather seat........Ok paint (hood is going and roof could use some attention).......ABS was unplugged (light is on if I plug it in).........................EGT/FP/Trans/Boost gauges....Secure a spare motor (Teds maybe)..............K47 air box...............Cooling system upgrades.....Flashed ECM..............ATT if the stocker ever blows out.......................Second, the ABS light is on...................................Is the best place to check blow by by pulling the CDR?.........Thanks!
Dylan
my leather split, tore, ripped, turned ugly. swapped it out for cloth.
what color is it, white peels, primer used was water based, might be a warranty issue.
my abs is on, unequal pressure, leak causing issue. only fix(if it's not electrical), replace or rebuild hydroboost unit. easier to replace. here's some generic info:
http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/hydroboost.html
Teds has a good reputation here.
ATT is a great unit.
best place to check blow by, oil fill cap.
 
Welcome aboard!

The 1500 Burb is a sweet ride.

Blowby can be checked at hot or cold idle right at the oil filler cap. My 1500 truck is setting a tad past 220K on the clock and has almost zero blowby, uses 1/2 qt of oil at 5K changes. The oil cooler lines where shot when I bought mine, be sure to check those on yrs...quick way to loose a perfectly good motor.

IME the 1500's 1/2 ton series where purchased for there indented duty "light towing" and if they were regularly serviced are fine candidates to go the distance. The 2500 & 3500 series that were used for heavy towing & were put to the test are ones that I'm leery of.

Good luck with yr new purchase & happy dieseling. I love rattle of my 6.5 :thumbsup:
 
Thanks to all! Thankfully there isn't really any blow by from the oil fill or dipstick tube. A slight haze comes out but seemingly less than many low mile gassers I've had.

I'm going to check the harmonic balancer tonight since that seems like a low cost, high damage part.
 
I hope I'm attaching these files right and they are not too big. I've been slowly degreasing the motor and cleaning the inside. The previous owner took good care of it but I am much more of the type that if its not clean, I can't see what might be broke/dripping etc...

The harmonic balancer and crank pulley seemingly look fine. According to my rebuilt maintenance log from the PO's receipts, it was replaced in 2005 @ 174,000 miles. The water pump also has HO on it which I assume means it was replaced with the newer model at some point. I'm new but is my thermostat housing still the single? I have the 6 blade 4 bolt fan.

Oil pressure is good. Blow by is low. The fuel gauge is kind of wacky. ABS light is on (will check codes this weekend). Temp needle takes a while but stays dead at 190 degrees (assuming the stock gauge is right). The oil lines were replaced at 158,000 miles but look like they might be weeping. Or it could be front main seal or power steering fluid just settling to the lowest point on that line. As I get it cleaned up I will note any "new" fluids weeping here or there.

The brakes don't seem that responsive compared to my other vehicles (but this is a beast compared!). I may attempt a bleed down on the brake lines and flushing the power steering fluid for the hydroboost soon.

3.42 gears with a posi rear end according to the glove box codes. She's no stump puller off the line but really seems like a high speed cruiser. I MIGHT tow something in the 8,000 range ONCE. More likely less than 4,000 at any time and 99% of the time just hauling gear inside.

Oh and the FIRST thing I did was take off that stupid 6.5 plastic cover!

Thanks for listening!

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96 had a mid year change on the cooling system and I suspect yours came stock with the HO waterpump and dual stats I see in the pics. Prolly the original pump too. I have 250k on my truck and still running the stock HO pump
 
Nice burb! Dont trash that cover if you dont want it! Post it up for sale, you will get a buyer. Some people like them, some dont. There are rumors that it is just a thing to keep heat in, but really it isnt, its made to allow the fan while running to circulate air through it. Lose oil lines do look weepy, they are know for common failure, best to replace them with an aftermarket kit which is offered by a vendor. Cant tell where your PMD is, best to remote locate it for optimum heat dissipation. You will love the 3.42 gears, they will net you some sweet mileage! Nice looking rig!
 
Thanks all for the replies. This is in the works for this weekend. Just got the Auberins EGT and FP gauges too to establish a baseline. I think the number off the thermo housing is for the dual stat too. So besides the fan, looks like am already setup with better than '96 cooling.
 

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Welcome to The Truck Stop. Looks like you have already got some great information from some of the guys on here. :smile5:
 
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