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New PMD w relocator kit or injectors??

It's not a matter of quality or price it has to do with stanadyne. It took what 15yrs for them to admit the original was a poor design along with bad mouthing the dtech when it first came out. Now they come out with a new and improved version and change the connector to try and force you to buy their product. my 2cts
 
Yes , Success at last this is exactly what I was fishing fo:thumbsup:r...Seeing how $300 + dollars is a big investment for me I wanted to make sure. The only thing is pmdcable carries the dtech kit but it doesn't come with a resistor. I don't think, and for $330 only has a 1 yr warranty or for another $200+ he will extend it for 7 years . I don't have that scratch right now..
 
97duallydiesel said:
another question for you guys who have a plow and the PMD relocation kit.. Where do you have it mounted? I know they recommend behind the front license plate bracket but I'm afraid of the snow /slush/ice getting in there and ruining it
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Plowed for 3 years without incident at stock location. This includes a surprise 'puddle' that went up over my hood as my plow grabbed into it doing about 35....

Snow, Slush, rain, mud... Believe it or not, it barely gets hit with anything.

I've even backdragged a ton of crap practically packing it it with snow I'd imagine. No issues. ITs the best.
 
ak diesel driver said:
It's not a matter of quality or price it has to do with stanadyne. It took what 15yrs for them to admit the original was a poor design along with bad mouthing the dtech when it first came out. Now they come out with a new and improved version and change the connector to try and force you to buy their product. my 2cts
Click to expand...

Well said. I'd go DTech now for this reason too. Well said AK.
 
Matt Bachand said:
Plowed for 3 years without incident at stock location. This includes a surprise 'puddle' that went up over my hood as my plow grabbed into it doing about 35....

Snow, Slush, rain, mud... Believe it or not, it barely gets hit with anything.

I've even backdragged a ton of crap practically packing it it with snow I'd imagine. No issues. ITs the best.
Click to expand...

Gotta love when the plow hits a "Suprise " bump and sends the plow 5' up above the head gear... really wakes u up!!!:crazy:
 
97duallydiesel said:
Yes , Success at last this is exactly what I was fishing fo:thumbsup:r...Seeing how $300 + dollars is a big investment for me I wanted to make sure. The only thing is pmdcable carries the dtech kit but it doesn't come with a resistor. I don't think, and for $330 only has a 1 yr warranty or for another $200+ he will extend it for 7 years . I don't have that scratch right now..
Click to expand...

If you mount it outside the engine bay I wouldn't worry about the warranty.

I also agree with AK's reasons never to buy a stanadyne PMD again.

Now if only we could get Dtech to make a repalcement IP delivering 120+ fuel rate
 
Hi Steve - going back to your original post:

The truck runs fine but does break up sometimes going up hills. Also the fuel pedal is fine when I apply pressure but immediately drops power when i release even just a little bit
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The discussion is focused on a new PMD, but I'm not sure that's the problem in the first place. You should relocate it, but if the one you have is still good you can buy a $30 cable and move the PMD you have out of the engine bay.

You need to check fuel pressure first like someone else said. If you lose power or buck going up hill, you might be losing fuel pressure under load, or your lift pump may be gone. Easy to find out, and very important to look at it ASAP. Also, have you put a new fuel filter in since you've had it?

Drops power when you release the pedal - do the following test. Warm up the engine, then sitting still in park try to ramp the engine up to 2000 rpm slowly, then slowly down to idle again. If its hard to ramp it evenly, and drops to idle the second you begin to release pedal pressure, your IP is probably on its way out.

I'd just like to see you do a bit of troubleshooting before just buying the PMD, you may spend the money and not see any difference. Are you having any random stalling issues, or bucking or loss of power in everyday driving?
 
Dave01 said:
Hi Steve - going back to your original post:



The discussion is focused on a new PMD, but I'm not sure that's the problem in the first place. You should relocate it, but if the one you have is still good you can buy a $30 cable and move the PMD you have out of the engine bay.

You need to check fuel pressure first like someone else said. If you lose power or buck going up hill, you might be losing fuel pressure under load, or your lift pump may be gone. Easy to find out, and very important to look at it ASAP. Also, have you put a new fuel filter in since you've had it?

Drops power when you release the pedal - do the following test. Warm up the engine, then sitting still in park try to ramp the engine up to 2000 rpm slowly, then slowly down to idle again. If its hard to ramp it evenly, and drops to idle the second you begin to release pedal pressure, your IP is probably on its way out.

I'd just like to see you do a bit of troubleshooting before just buying the PMD, you may spend the money and not see any difference. Are you having any random stalling issues, or bucking or loss of power in everyday driving?
Click to expand...

It really doesn't stall or buck on me .. I replaced the following in the fuel system in sept of this year when I bought the truck::: fuel sending unit,fuel lines back to front, fuel pump, fuel manager/filter housing and the fuel filter.

The last owner, who was a diesel mechanic, told me he replaced the IP recently. but who knows. ?? The pedal has positive pressure but if I remove my foot entirely it immediately drops right back to idle.
 
The easy place to check fuel pressure is at the t-valve at the front of the engine. There is a nipple that usually has a length of fuel hose that just runs to the ground, if you open the valve fuel comes out. A fuel pressure gauge attaches there in place of the hose, you open the t-valve and check pressure.

You should be able to get a cheap fuel gauge at an auto parts store, or I think some people get them from Harbor Freight.

If you just replaced the lift pump its probably good, but still might not be operating, could be a wiring or OPS problem. While idling, open the t-valve and see what happens. If fuel comes out in a good stream and the engine keeps running, your lift pump is operating. If it stalls, no lift pump, in which case you need to find out why.

As for letting off the pedal, mine does pretty much the same thing. If I'm on the highway and take my foot off, it drops to maybe 1,000 rpm or so. There isn't a lot of engine braking, at least on mine, not sure if all the automatics react that way. Hope this helps!
 
Dave01 said:
The easy place to check fuel pressure is at the t-valve at the front of the engine. There is a nipple that usually has a length of fuel hose that just runs to the ground, if you open the valve fuel comes out. A fuel pressure gauge attaches there in place of the hose, you open the t-valve and check pressure.

You should be able to get a cheap fuel gauge at an auto parts store, or I think some people get them from Harbor Freight.

If you just replaced the lift pump its probably good, but still might not be operating, could be a wiring or OPS problem. While idling, open the t-valve and see what happens. If fuel comes out in a good stream and the engine keeps running, your lift pump is operating. If it stalls, no lift pump, in which case you need to find out why.

As for letting off the pedal, mine does pretty much the same thing. If I'm on the highway and take my foot off, it drops to maybe 1,000 rpm or so. There isn't a lot of engine braking, at least on mine, not sure if all the automatics react that way. Hope this helps!
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Thanks Dave. I'll try that tomm. The pedal just seems odd how it imediately drops the power down to 1K. My other truck doesn't seem to do that . ...thanks again for your help
 
It's normal for it to drop back to idle when the throttle pedal is released on an auto.
 
The only time you'll see an improvement with mi is after you've done a pcm upgrade. Even then it's probably not the 40hp some advertise. I did mine the cheap way just put in new marine nozzles.
 
97duallydiesel said:
How do you like those Bosch marine injectors? do you think they're worth the money??
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Hard to say, It was an improvement over the old ones but maybe standard would have been just as good. I had them before the reflash so I can't say if it would have helped there either.

The truck runs great the way it's set up though.
 
97duallydiesel said:
Yes , Success at last this is exactly what I was fishing fo:thumbsup:r...Seeing how $300 + dollars is a big investment for me I wanted to make sure. The only thing is pmdcable carries the dtech kit but it doesn't come with a resistor. I don't think, and for $330 only has a 1 yr warranty or for another $200+ he will extend it for 7 years . I don't have that scratch right now..
Click to expand...

Hi, sometimes I catch these post after they are dead. Just wanted to clairfy.
I can get both Dtech (obviously) and Stanadyne PMDs. I do lean towards likeing the Dtech better for the same reasons as others have stated and that I have not had one returned so far.
I do include a #9 resistor for free with every PMD I sell (I need to point that out on the web site also).

About The linked ebay auction you posted FYI: that kit comes with a import cable and they cut the connectors to make them fit the new Stanadyn PMD. My cables are an exact match using Delfi connectors (no cuting or modifiying) and proper gold plated sockets, made right here as ordered by me. I've Never had a single return in over 2500 cables sold so far.
I will say this though, you can modifiy your black connector and resistor to work also.

Leroy
 
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