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Guys is it hard to rebuild a rear end?
View attachment 47116 The Tahoe 5.7 is the one that needs the rear end.
Too funny and yes I'm a clown.
Has nothing to do with him on that commercial half hour ago. In my own dorky way I'm saying choose wife or 1/2 of the trucks now. (She'll get 1/2 the trucks on lawyer day).
If she stays, dump the 1 truck, if there is $ lost- just walk away from the loss and move on.
Made a bad purchase? So what. Made 100 other decisions that were good. Name ain't Christ, gonna miss a call sometimes. If loosing a couple grand is way to devistating, Have to sell a good purchase for profit to make up for the loss.
Better to get that out of the way early on.Last thing my ex said was "me or the truck" this was after a lot of other crap went down and to cool down I said I was Heading out to work on my truck.
This was after she got mad about me working 2 jobs and going to college full time so I could pay the rent and her payments on her new car. She needed her money for clothes and hair. She had already graduated and had a 60k starting salary. I drove a paid for 95 K1500 6.5 and was driving nearly 1000 a week to get between school and work. Bad decision marrying the spoiled B....
I would go with the Fluidamper. Once and done for lifeWelcome. Nice rig. Sounds like lots has been done. I'll have to point my big fear of the 6.5- check your harmonic balancer condition, it's a crank and block killer.
I have been running mostly 11% soy bio since the 90's and have gone through very few lift pumps. I have only run 3 or so lift pumps that were not AC Delco or GM. Those aftermarket lift pumps never lasted very long.First off Welcome!!! A 6.5 is a great rig to learn on. Anything major is usually catastrophic and requires engine replacement. Good way to learn is by pulling an engine... Seriously if it doesn't start be easy on the starter and fix it rather than attempting to start it when it won't. Get a Spare PMD and remote mount it with a Made in USA cable. I will say it again, AAA membership, or pay the hook to get it home is cheaper than melting a starter down and still having to fix the no start issue.
The front oil seal rides on the harmonic damper. Replacing that is IMO cheaper than a sleeve. Inspect the rubber on it and the rubber on the belt drive pulley for cracking, pushing out, etc.
Oil cooler lines are critical and easily overheat and leak. Inspect often.
Fuel system leaks and a good lift pump are critical. Air in the fuel system is the #1 troubleshooting step. With the Biodiesel out there mixed in at commercial fuel pumps it's best to get a Walbro lift pump as the factory style isn't compatible with Biodiesel. The Oil Pressure Switch, OPS, drives the lift pump on most years and they may have the ECM driving a fuel pump relay on 1999's. Make sure the lift pump is running with a pressure vacuum gauge tapped off the water drain. 4+ PSI with the engine revved up is good. (High RPM flows more fuel that is just returned to the tank, but, will show fuel system restrictions via low pressure or vacuum at the high RPM.)