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New 99 Tahoe Z71 2 door 6.5 TD Owner

aLpHaSuRf

aLpHaSuRf

Active Member
Messages
203
Reaction score
150
Location
USA
Hi all,

I am a new member of the community so I wanted to take the time to say hi. Not only am I new to this community but I am also a new diesel owner. I recently bought my first diesel truck after looking for one for over two years.

I have looked for a nice 2 door Tahoe diesel for over two years and finally on January 22nd 2016 I bought my long awaited for 1999 Chevy Tahoe Z71 2 door 6.5 turbo diesel. Here is a little about the truck.

The truck has 216,000 miles, New fuel tank, pickup, fuel injection pump and all 8 injectors. The battery cables replaced and modified to top post battery cables. Holset HX 35 Dodge Cummins turbo. 3 gauge A pilar pod with Auto Meter boost, exhaust gas temp & transmission temp gages. Factory vacuum pump deleted. A none EGR intake manifold. PMD has been relocated to the inside of the front bumber. Remote top mounted oil filter. Front drilled rotors. Serviced rear brakes & new wheel cylinders. Five position transfer case recently replaced. Rebuilt A/C compressor, evaporator, condenser, dryer and all hoses were replaced. Pair of PIA Off Road driving lights. 2 front southern comfort power seats. 18" LTZ Chrome wheels.

The truck does need some TLC. It has a few leaks that need to be addressed. I did drive the truck home over 700 miles with no problems and the truck runs great I guess. I am not used to driving a diesel. I want to learn to fix this truck and my other 2 gas 5.7 vortex Chevies by myself. I don't have much experience as a day mechanic but I hope to learn.

Here is a picture of my new diesel truck. I took it at the gas station on my way home from buying it.

image.jpeg
 
Hey all thanks for the warm welcome and replies with advice and info. Oil cooler lines were replaced with oem parts by previous owner. P.O. Also told me one of the leaks is the harmonic balancer and he said it's been leaking since he bought it in 2013. He told me he never worried about fixing it because it's not a major leak. From what I can tell is it looks to be a few drips not much more then that. I don't know how bad it is when driving but I don't really take her out anyways. I want to fix all the leaks she has first before I use her because I don't want to take a chance of hurting her. I waited a long time for this truck. I want to take great care of her and hope she will last me for many more happy years and miles to come. Besides I also have a 1999 suburban LT z71 5.7 Vortec and a 1996 Tahoe z71 2 door 57 Vortec. So It's not my only vehicle.

image.jpeg
 
6.5TD.Club said:
Hey all thanks for the warm welcome and replies with advice and info. Oil cooler lines were replaced with oem parts by previous owner. P.O. Also told me one of the leaks is the harmonic balancer and he said it's been leaking since he bought it in 2013. He told me he never worried about fixing it because it's not a major leak. From what I can tell is it looks to be a few drips not much more then that. I don't know how bad it is when driving but I don't really take her out anyways. I want to fix all the leaks she has first before I use her because I don't want to take a chance of hurting her. I waited a long time for this truck. I want to take great care of her and hope she will last me for many more happy years and miles to come. Besides I also have a 1999 suburban LT z71 5.7 Vortec and a 1996 Tahoe z71 2 door 57 Vortec. So It's not my only vehicle.

View attachment 47099
Click to expand...
Fluid-damper is about the best you can get for the 6.5 when replacing the crank seal leak can be addressed and if perhaps the crank nose is a little rough it can be sleeved where crank seal rides....external OEM metal oil lines are known to crack and kill the diesel. That truck is NICE.
 
Hey DV thanks for compliments on the truck. Which one though is it you like?
 
FellowTraveler said:
Fluid-damper is about the best you can get for the 6.5 when replacing the crank seal leak can be addressed and if perhaps the crank nose is a little rough it can be sleeved where crank seal rides....external OEM metal oil lines are known to crack and kill the diesel. That truck is NICE.
Click to expand...

First off Welcome!!! A 6.5 is a great rig to learn on. Anything major is usually catastrophic and requires engine replacement. Good way to learn is by pulling an engine... :p Seriously if it doesn't start be easy on the starter and fix it rather than attempting to start it when it won't. Get a Spare PMD and remote mount it with a Made in USA cable. I will say it again, AAA membership, or pay the hook to get it home is cheaper than melting a starter down and still having to fix the no start issue.

The front oil seal rides on the harmonic damper. Replacing that is IMO cheaper than a sleeve. Inspect the rubber on it and the rubber on the belt drive pulley for cracking, pushing out, etc.

Oil cooler lines are critical and easily overheat and leak. Inspect often.

Fuel system leaks and a good lift pump are critical. Air in the fuel system is the #1 troubleshooting step. With the Biodiesel out there mixed in at commercial fuel pumps it's best to get a Walbro lift pump as the factory style isn't compatible with Biodiesel. The Oil Pressure Switch, OPS, drives the lift pump on most years and they may have the ECM driving a fuel pump relay on 1999's. Make sure the lift pump is running with a pressure vacuum gauge tapped off the water drain. 4+ PSI with the engine revved up is good. (High RPM flows more fuel that is just returned to the tank, but, will show fuel system restrictions via low pressure or vacuum at the high RPM.)
 
WarWagon said:
First off Welcome!!! A 6.5 is a great rig to learn on. Anything major is usually catastrophic and requires engine replacement. Good way to learn is by pulling an engine... :p Seriously if it doesn't start be easy on the starter and fix it rather than attempting to start it when it won't. Get a Spare PMD and remote mount it with a Made in USA cable. I will say it again, AAA membership, or pay the hook to get it home is cheaper than melting a starter down and still having to fix the no start issue.

The front oil seal rides on the harmonic damper. Replacing that is IMO cheaper than a sleeve. Inspect the rubber on it and the rubber on the belt drive pulley for cracking, pushing out, etc.

Oil cooler lines are critical and easily overheat and leak. Inspect often.

Fuel system leaks and a good lift pump are critical. Air in the fuel system is the #1 troubleshooting step. With the Biodiesel out there mixed in at commercial fuel pumps it's best to get a Walbro lift pump as the factory style isn't compatible with Biodiesel. The Oil Pressure Switch, OPS, drives the lift pump on most years and they may have the ECM driving a fuel pump relay on 1999's. Make sure the lift pump is running with a pressure vacuum gauge tapped off the water drain. 4+ PSI with the engine revved up is good. (High RPM flows more fuel that is just returned to the tank, but, will show fuel system restrictions via low pressure or vacuum at the high RPM.)
Click to expand...

Okay I am not a very avid diy home mechanic. Most I've ever really done has been oil changes and changing brake pads a few times on some of my vehicles. Most of my life have owned and driven cars. So my 99 suburban is really my first truck. I have wanted to learn to fix my vehicles myself after paying what I paid to do some maintenance on my 1999 suburban. I get my truck back and things were different. I do not trust mechanics.

I would love to drive my diesel Tahoe but she will sit. I have to learn and need to save money to get the proper tools and parts but here are my goals. Get a obd2 code reader for my 99 suburban 5.7, 96 Tahoe 5.7, 99 6.5 Tahoe it will also need to work on my girls Mercedes 99 Slk 230 kompressor , sons 99 Mercedes 99 c230 kompressor.

Plans for my diesel Tahoe go over the whole thing and learn what all the parts are because I'm not very mechanically inclined at this point. Then I be able to fix everything I find wrong with her. I have a few leaks and I don't even know here they are coming from. I know the PO told me one was the harmonic balancer. I will use my gassers and take my time and go over the whole vehicle and replace anything with better parts if I need to but I have to learn what all the parts are first.
 
Welcome!!!

Listen to these guys, they'll help you get it all fixed up. One better, start a thread in the proper section and line-item out the issues, and let these guys tell you what to do, and advise you on the other PM steps to keeping it going for a good long time.
 
Any OBD2 code reader will read OBD 2 codes, it's just the fancier scanners get into things like real-time data, ability to control certain systems, etc; and those start getting vehicle specific. Get a cheap code-reader to start, then once you get more comfortable and figure things out, decide if it's time to step up to something more significant.

As far as things go mechanically, instead of trying to learn what each part is on a parts diagram, figure out what the problems are and read through the appropriate threads here, then start digging into some of the easier problems. You learn a lot more by digging in, and just take your time, bag and tag bolts, fasteners and electrical connectors and wires, and it all goes back together so nicely. That's where you really learn. And sometimes you have to improvise, and that's part of learning too.
 
Dad's 05 LLY said:
Any OBD2 code reader will read OBD 2 codes, . . .
Click to expand...

X-2, a generic OBD-II reader will just read the basic codes.

For your year Ho, consider getting an Edge touch screen and clean-up the A-pillar. The Edge will do everything an OBD-II reader can do (plus more) and is expandable without sacrificing additional pillar / dash space.
 
Fortunately for you, this is the most knowledgeable 6.5 forum on the internet and it's full of mostly very patient guys willing to help you out. So start a general thread on your project and take the time to do a bunch of reading.
 
Right now I have a lot on my plate between work, my family, my other Tahoe needing TLC too and my health. Once I am ready to start putting time into her(my diesel) I will start a new thread in the 6.5 diesel forums.
Between my my girl, my kids and I, we have 6 cars. I bought my girl her 99 Mercedes Slk 230 it needs front brakes to be done and a new maf, bought my son the 99 Mercedes c230 it just needs a new maf, gave my younger son my 07 Pontiac G6 just put $2,000 into it at GMC and I have my 99 suburban which only needs new tires and a 4 wheel alignment but I just put $2,500 into my burn for all this maintenance.
Injection flush service
throttle body service
pitman arm part # 26051896
idler arm part # 26059070
oil cooler lines Part #'s 15112871 & 15112870
oil gasket kit part # 88893990
front diff service
pinion seal (front diff) part # 12471590
transfer case service
rear diff service
rear diff cover gasket part # 15807693
fuel level sensor part # 19121320
fuel filter part # 25171792
fuel pump
front brake hoses
turn rotors
front pads part # 18039669
brake flush
c & A rear shoes
turn drums
ac compressor part # 89019367
ac resister part # 15039098
ac head control part # 9378805
evaporator Part # 52481081

I am sick of paying a mechanic and really want to learn to fix my own vehicles.

The 96 Tahoe 5.7 I just bought and she needs the rear to be rebuilt I already bought the bearings, I also have to replace the rear main seal then give her a tune up. But who knows hat else's he really needs.

So for the time being I will be driving the Suburban and start by fixing the 96 Tahoe then sell my suburban. Then start fixing up the 99 Tahoe diesel.
 
Congrats on the Hoe!

You can do most of that work in your driveway over a couple days.

I'm surprised you got by that cheap on the burb honestly. That's a 6k bill around here.
 
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