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Need to find a way to drive a hoist trolley

W

whatnot

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Location
Waunakee Wisconsin
I am trying to figure out the best way to run a hoist back and forth on an ibeam. It is about 17' long. I know they make trolleys with powered wheels but I do not want that. I want it pulled back and forth. I had originally planned on using a winch and winding 2 cables on it but I don't think that will work because of the cable building up on the drum causing the lengths to vary a little. Another idea I had was putting a winch at each end and make the one running have to pull the cable out of the other one. (to keep the cable tight all the time) I don't really want to deal with running heavy cables all over the place though.
I was thinking about using parts of a garage door opener but I think they are too flimsy and might break. I would pretty much only use the motor and chain from an opener so I was thinking maybe try finding a gearmotor and just run a roller chain and pulley the same way the opener works.
Are there any better options or a better way to use one of the ideas I have?
I prefer to use around 120v to keep the wire size small(ac or dc) but can run on anything.
 
Does it have to be powered, how much weight are we talking about, you can push tons of weight on a I beam trolley here are a couple of ideas for you http://www.harborfreight.com/materi...dling/2-ton-capacity-plain-trolley-40493.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/material-handling/material-handling/3-ton-push-trolley-91492.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/material-handling/material-handling/1-ton-push-trolley-97392.html

with one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-hand-winch-65688.html connected to either side thru a pulley block something like this http://www.harborfreight.com/materi...ngle-wheel-rope-pulley-2-piece-set-92306.html you aren't picking up the load with it just providing a smooth transition as you move it side to side to gain mechanical advantage moving it on the I beam.

What are you doing with it exactly if you make your beam dead level it really won't take much push/pull to move it, or you could put a minor incline to the beam maybe 1/4-1/2" lower @ one end than other let gravity move it 1 direction and use the the cable winch to bring it back "uphill". maybe experiment with the beam to see how much of a grade allows easy movement both directions
 
It is on a trailer so won't always be the same. I am going to have jacks on the back to keep it close to level but if it settles then it could shift and cause the load to run away.
Those harbor freight trolleys are garbage. I already have a Coffing 2 ton trolley.
I will have up to at least 3000 Lbs on it so I need something fairly strong incase it tilts.
I have used it once so far without anything with about 2000 Lbs on it and isn't bad if close to level but I couldn't hold it with it a little tilted.
I want to be able to stand next to the trailer and have a joystick or 4 buttons to pick up the load and run it off the back then drop it.
 
The hoist in the picture in not on it anymore. I have the electric one ready to go on but wanted to get the powered part figured out before I put it on.
attachment.php
 
CtChevy427 said:
Take a look at this. LINK
Click to expand...
I have seen those but I don't think the wheels would work if it did tilt. I think even a garage door opener with the plastic gears would hold as good as that. I would prefer a cable or chain holding it back.
I will probably just end up with a gearmotor and do it similar to a garage door opener. Was just hoping to find a simpler way to do it.
 
The harbor freight pics were for illustration, now that I see what you are after I'd stay with the beam trolley you have and go with a 12v atv winch maybe, put electrical connections either end with a thru bolt set up through the frame to secure it, use something like a welders gnd clamp either side of the trolley to act as a brake so it wont roll beyond where you want it. Boat trailer hand winch would work also just a little more work.

Further brainstorming do you have a tractor farm supply nearby, maybe a cable come along; as indicated before it should not take much tractive effort to get the load moving on that beam.

As for leveling; RV leveling jacks are what I put on my mobile band saw mill trailer all 4 corners and in middle as ground is not always level where I park the mill, they work well and hold weight of a 16' x 24" log?
 
I found a 1/8hp 130v DC motor with 45:1 gearhead today that I am going to try using. I just ordered a #41 9 tooth sprocket for it. I am going to put a hole through the beam upright and put the shaft through it and bolt solid. Then put the sprocket on the other side. I need to find something to put a 1-1/4" hole through the upright part of the beam. (it is about 1/2" thick) I have some pulleys that should work at the other end. I am planning on using wire rope instead of chain on the section that will never go through the sprocket on the motor. I will hopefully have it put together by the end of next week.
What type of leveling jacks do you have? Are they the scissor type or the flip down? I have been trying to figure out if I can get by with them or if I have to get trailer jacks. (I only need them on the back because I can use the tough jack for the front.
 
for your 1 1/4" hole believe or not a bi metal holesaw will work just fine. Slow speed and lots of lube. I cut a 2 5/8" hole in 2" thick steel and the holesaw was still in good shape.
 
These ones are only rated at 1000 Lbs so I am not sure if I want to use them.
Click to expand...

The ones I sent you link for at Northern tool are jacks for whatever the leveling or trailer support need calls for, rated for 5000# weld or bolt to a trailer frame pull pin they rotate 90 deg parallel to trailer frame, once you are ready to set up rotate 90 deg again put in pin and jack up to put load on the jacks, they come in a lower weight rating for a little less $$$
 
The only problem with those it that I really need side cranks because the uprights won't allow the handle to go all the way around. Or I was thinking I might be able to take the handles off and weld sockets on then either use a cordless impact or ratchet to run them. Is that a bad idea?
 
They are pinned so you can remove completely if you wish possibly put at the end of your trailer if you wish, and remove when loading/unloading, also there are some I've seen (been a while) where the crank mechanism cranks from side vs top
 
Yes, I have seen the ones with the side cranks but they cost a lot more. I will probably stop at tractor supply company and see what they have.
 
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