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Need new radiator

Acesneights1 said:
some kind a squeal or noise.
Click to expand...

From what i've read its due to the belt stretching out.

Not sure if the lack of pump pulley at that location has something to do with the way the belt is tensioned,

OR

they are just starting out with a belt 1/2" too big.

I went 99.5, it was snug fit, made a mark, and a few weeks later its WAY away from the mark.

Been almost 5 months or so and no noises yet FWIW.
 
I pulled my rad when I did the body lift, sincei t was most of the way out anyway. It was disgusting, plugged with dirt and dust, and in between the condenser and rad was a a ton of leaves and bugs. I cannot believe I wasn't having cooling issues. The bodylift has contributed to a little higher temps when working it hard, obviously because the fan is not in line with the rad as it was before, and the shroud had to be opened up so it's no longer a tight fit. But I only had some slightly scary temps under the most extreme conditions, pulling the camper up the biggest hills on the way up north in 90 degree heat. Only other temp issues I have is when the plow blade is on, it keeps any air from getting through the grille no matter how I carry it. I can't get over 45-50 without it kicking the fan on. The fan darn sure works though, it will suck 20 degrees off in about a minute. I actually made a plexi deflector for my light tower that directs air to the grille when the plow is on, it worked pretty good.
If you guys have clean rads and are having temp problems towing, maybe it's like in Nicks Dmax post, that the trucks aren't all the same. Because mine handles it no problem, at least it did before I lifted it, and that was with the dirty rad.
My AC hasn't worked in years, I had it charged once and it leaked down, I also replaced the compressor when it seized, but for all intents and purposes I don't use the AC, don't really like AC to be honest with you. Maybe rather than fixing it I oughta pull the condensor off and free up some radiator space.
 
Do you suppose the 1500-2500-and 3500 trucks might not have the same radiators and/or cooling capacity? My dually has about all the HD cooling you could imagine, but I don't know if the lighter gvw trucks got the same thing. Maybe you could spec out the rad part #s for a 2500 and a 3500 just for s&g's.
Takes me half an hour in the winter to warm up 20 gallons of coolant enough to get any heat out of it.
I also wonder if the lifted trucks screw up the airflow, allowing more to go under the truck and maybe disrupting what's actually getting through the grille.
 
Last thought on the subject. Any thoughts on heat extractor hood scoops? Like Missy said, there isn't a great deal of freedom for the air to escape once it comes through the rad, I bet that engine bay is kind of a pressurized area at speed. Give that air heated on it's way through the radiator somewhere to go, and the flow should be better, right?
 
With the newly cleaned radiator the truck runs cooler just running down the highway empty. I did the fan mod and I went a little to much so the fans runs all the tiget up to 45 mph.
 
I have been looking at the new fender vents on the new denali or the escalade. I would think they would allow for a great heat escape path. I think most of the air escapes from under the truck but more can't hurt.
 
Missy Good Wench said:
Get a Visteon (brand) replacement. These are OEM or better quality and will drop right in and go to work.

I have purchased 2 of these so far this summer. One for DaHoooley and recently one for the 94 Burb.

Both rigs had the factory radiators that were just used up.

I paid $235 for mine (Jober pricing as I bought it through my company) They are still not too high a price over the counter though.

These radiators will do the best job you can get without going to a custom unit for the BIG $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ The core size is the limiting factor here. Thicker is not always better. The stock radiator is a large 3 core aluminum with plastic tanks.

I hate plastic but they do seem to hold up fairly well.

My 94 Burb had 270K on the original and the only failure was the upper hose bib broke off just behind the clamp ridge and it started leaking.

Still cooled fine though.


Missy
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I too ended up wit a Visteon radiator. My original went over 300K before the core corroded enough to start leaking. The plastic tanks were original and intact, so they outlasted the core. Got mine from the local radiator shop that I've done business with for years. He did tell me that this radiator is the same one O'Reilly and Auto Zoo sells with a lifetime warranty and for less than what I paid. Yeah, I know, dumb to pay more, but the guy has always been honest with me and does great work when he can fix one, so I bought his. Mike
 
A company makes hood vents and states the border patrol uses them. They state that the hood vents can lower under hood temps by up to 47 degrees.
 
Detroit Dan said:
Last thought on the subject. Any thoughts on heat extractor hood scoops? Like Missy said, there isn't a great deal of freedom for the air to escape once it comes through the rad, I bet that engine bay is kind of a pressurized area at speed. Give that air heated on it's way through the radiator somewhere to go, and the flow should be better, right?
Click to expand...

I have heard GMCTD ramble on about this before too, underneath the truck is a low pressure area, and it all goes out there, cooling everything in its path, discrupting that flow, may do more harm than good.

A lot of people blame solid front axle's for overheat problems for this reason, it disrupts the area causing pressure problem with airflow on highway.
 
MNovak said:
I too ended up wit a Visteon radiator. My original went over 300K before the core corroded enough to start leaking. The plastic tanks were original and intact, so they outlasted the core. Got mine from the local radiator shop that I've done business with for years. He did tell me that this radiator is the same one O'Reilly and Auto Zoo sells with a lifetime warranty and for less than what I paid. Yeah, I know, dumb to pay more, but the guy has always been honest with me and does great work when he can fix one, so I bought his. Mike
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I just called AutoZone, and they say their brand is not Visteon, but "Spectra Premium / Radiator For your 1995 Chevrolet Truck Tahoe 4WD 6.5L Turbo Diesel 8cyl"

I also thought it was funny when I did the lookup for the Tahoe, it said:

" * Available engines
o 8 Cylinders K 5.7L TBI (found in 99% of 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe 4WD)
o 8 Cylinders S 6.5L Turbo Diesel (found in 1% of 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe 4WD)
"

Yep, only 1% of Tahoes have the 6.5 in it....

-Rob :)
 
I see that "RockAuto dot com" has these, VISTEON Part # 9579 for under $300. Is this a reputable vendor? Do any of our site sponsors have this part or something comparable/better?

-Rob :)
 
TurboTahoe said:
I just called AutoZone, and they say their brand is not Visteon, but "Spectra Premium / Radiator For your 1995 Chevrolet Truck Tahoe 4WD 6.5L Turbo Diesel 8cyl"

I also thought it was funny when I did the lookup for the Tahoe, it said:

" * Available engines
o 8 Cylinders K 5.7L TBI (found in 99% of 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe 4WD)
o 8 Cylinders S 6.5L Turbo Diesel (found in 1% of 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe 4WD)
"

Yep, only 1% of Tahoes have the 6.5 in it....

-Rob :)
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It has been about three years since I needed my radiator, so AZ has had that long to change vendors. Another thought, I was told that like batteries, there are only a couple of manufacturers that even make radiators in this country anymore, and they make radiators for suppliers who can and do put their own name on it. Maybe AZ is selling furin' radiators now, I don't know. All I do know is that is what was said about three years ago. Some of the guys on GMD.com shop at rock auto.com all the time and seem to have good luck, but I have never used them so can't say one way or the other. Mike:iamwithstupid:
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
No problems with the "Spectra" rad and for $160.00, you can't go wrong.
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AZ is now allowed to charge different prices at different stores and many will not price match other stores. I know AZ used to carry READYRAD. When I bought my DMAX radiator at CARQUEST it came in a readyrad box, but had a VISTEON sticker on the core. Just some food for thought.
 
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