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Need new fuel line from the manager to the drain petcock

J

jrsavoie

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Rural Clifton, Illinois
I need to replace the fuel line from the manager to the drain petcock.

What all is involved in this?

How much disassembly?

What should I get for fuel line, what size and how long?

Where does this line attach to the manager?

Can I pull the line through without pulling the intake manifold?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Jeff
 
You can see the line in my pics because I raised the filter. I have the older FFM with the bent drain fitting, but in 95 I think they started sticking them straight out like the IP output fitting, which makes them easier to mix up.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?14091-Feed-the-Beast-pics

I would first drain some fuel, then empty the FFM using a turkey baister or however, then loosen up the FFM by removing two bolts to the intake. You can pull a new line through, by duct taping it to the old one, maybe even use a hose union so it doesnt snag on something. I would replace both lines if you havent already.
 
Autozone sell a hose I like by Good Year for fuel injection. It has a blue plastic liner
 
Would this be a 3/16, 5/16, 3/8 or 1/4" line?

I have line here but I'm not sure of the quality. It's not worht taking a chance on possibly substandard line.

Buddy,
What did you mean by replacing both lines?

Thanks
 
The drain line to the T-valve, and the fuel line to the IP both run under the intake. If replacing one I would replace both, unless the IP fuel line has already been done.

Both lines come stock as 1/4".
 
I replace all the rubber hose when I'm in there. The return coming off the IP[1/4] ,the return at the rear of the intake valley[5/16] and the supply to the ffm[3/8] . I use napa fuel hose. All new worm drive clamps. I don't like rework. A foot of 3/8 and a foot of 5/16 will be more than enough. 4 feet of 1/4 should be more than enough. 8 worm drive hose clamps.
 
Have you ever tried the other style of screw type hose clamps?
I should have enough worm drive here but I usually buy the band clamp style from Mc Master Carr if I'm planning ahead. They don't eat into the line like the worm gears.

Is the Napa fuel hose bio-diesel safe? Should I look for sometrhing special as far as a line goes?
Thanks
Jeff
 
I was told it is safe for any available fuels. I've never had a problem with it.
I'm not shure what type of clamp you are referring to. I do know what you mean about the clamps chewing into the hose. I use a ratchet on them.
 
I agree that all the hoses should be changed if you run into a bad one.

The water drain is in a bad spot. I can't think of a good spot for it really. However, you can put it where you want and not worry about snaking a hose under the intake. Not that that is hard to do...

I have seen the water drain on the passenger side of the lower intake manifold and mine is on the turbo wastegate vac valve bracket on the driver's side held down with zip ties. (The brass bracket fell apart, I was short of hose and I am cheap at times...)
 
My condolences on your short of hose issue.

WarWagon said:
I agree that all the hoses should be changed if you run into a bad one.

The water drain is in a bad spot. I can't think of a good spot for it really. However, you can put it where you want and not worry about snaking a hose under the intake. Not that that is hard to do...

I have seen the water drain on the passenger side of the lower intake manifold and mine is on the turbo wastegate vac valve bracket on the driver's side held down with zip ties. (The brass bracket fell apart, I was short of hose and I am cheap at times...)
Click to expand...
 
I took my fuel manager off a tossed it in the dirt, replaced the unit with a 230R2 Racor filter asssembly.

Mounted it up on the ABS bracket and just connected the fuel line coming from the tank with a double barbed fitting and then connected the new filter to the IP with the appropriate hose.

The racor has a clear fuel bowl you can see into, plus a drain.

Best thing I ever did, also gets the extra line out of the valley area.

Missy
 
Missy Good Wench said:
I took my fuel manager off a tossed it in the dirt, replaced the unit with a 230R2 Racor filter asssembly.

Mounted it up on the ABS bracket and just connected the fuel line coming from the tank with a double barbed fitting and then connected the new filter to the IP with the appropriate hose.

The racor has a clear fuel bowl you can see into, plus a drain.

Best thing I ever did, also gets the extra line out of the valley area.

Missy
Click to expand...

Would you be able to send pics of this assembly, and the interior of the truck too. :)
Thanks,
Mark
 
I still haven't gotten to this project.

Recently the Tahoe has been dieing immediately after the first starting of the day. I'm assuming fuel leak down overnight.

I run the lift pump and then restart and it's good til it sits for 8 hours or so. It does have a slight fish bite also that could be related.

Is there anything else that could be causing this problem?
 
Rusty fuel and return lines. They can leak just enough to siphon the fuel back into the tank. Usually between the lift pump and tank on both lines. The rear brake line rusts out in the same area.
 
<<<Would you be able to send pics of this assembly>>>

I have pix of the same exact set up on mine. I'll get some posted in my garage tomarrow when i get on the other computer. Nice clean set up and well worth the money and time spent on it.

John
 
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