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NAPA Starters

I'm not sure. On my 4L80e the cross over pipe prevents removal, but there was enough room to see and inspect the engagement.

BTW, if you partially drop the cover, DO NOT allow the engine to turn over and start!!!! The cover will catch the ring gear and break things.
 
Yeah, If I do anything electrical (like the starter) I like to unhook the negative terminals. I'm Graduating this Saturday and will hopefully have a full-time job and some money to throw around starting in June...

Needless to say I have a lot of projects to work on. As a daily driver I'd like to have the diesel as reliable as possible. The "White Mule" (my back up) ain't exactley got any creature comforts and is dirty as hell.

I know now that it is not heat soaking, because for the first time it acted up after not being drove for several hours (last night about midnight, 70 or so degrees F). I got long tubes on the White Mule and it ain't never give trouble with heatsoaking either.

Next chance I get I'm going to measure clearance between the bendix and the ring gear. Never had to use shims on a starter, but there is a first for everything.
 
6.2/6.5 diesels are hard on starters. The one that hangs in I would send to scrap metal. I hate that issue and had to disconnect battery cables on a bad rebuild like that.

The New Powermaster starters have done well. I did break on Powermaster drive with bad injectors and long crank times. I would buy one of them new again after the weak solenoid units that pull in 3 of 4 times.
 
the original OEM starters are fine what's hard on them is people cranking to long on them. 250k on mine with only new brushes and repack the bearings
 
IDK what the 2 people before me did to the truck cranking wise. The ACDelco that was on it says its a reman. I've got fresh injectors in it and duraterms so it cranks for me quicker than my 350's, atleast now that the weather is warm.
 
Well the starter is shot, so getting it rebuilt. Still might be for sale when all is said and done.
 
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